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Old 08-20-2010, 12:36 PM
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283 Timing chain

How do you remove the timing sprocket from the cam on a 65 283? I can't get the sprocket off either the cam or the crank.

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Old 08-20-2010, 12:42 PM
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Well if its like the bigger inch small blocks you will have to pry just a little to get the cam gear off but be careful where you pry it as not to gouge your block or anything. I usually just take a small screwdriver and a rubber mallet and lightly tap it and it will come off using the screwdriver as a pry bar. Also to get the crank gear off you will need to use a gear puller which you can rent from some auto part stores or you can buy one for about 20 bucks.
Eric
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Old 08-20-2010, 12:48 PM
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There is a slight interference fit to the nose of the cam into the back of the gear, about.060" deep, you just need to lever, wiggle, pry it loose, it isn't very tight. Crank gear has to be pulled with a gear puller, or split with a chisel if you are not trying to save it. just be careful not to ding the crank if you go the chisel route.
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Old 08-20-2010, 02:45 PM
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You can use a blow torch and heat the crank sprocket and use the gear puller. You should not have difficulty to remove the cam gear if heat the bolts, too.
It's safer then using a chisel.
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Old 08-20-2010, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lg1969
You can use a blow torch and heat the crank sprocket and use the gear puller. You should not have difficulty to remove the cam gear if heat the bolts, too.
It's safer then using a chisel.
Hummmm!!!!!!!!!! I have never done it like this before.



Cole
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Old 08-20-2010, 03:46 PM
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Heat should never even be needed on the cam gear, it isn't that tight a fit. Heating the crank gear isn't the best way to remove it either, you end up heating both the gear and the crank nose so it doesn't help much.

Chisel method only works if the crank gear is cast, if it is a steel gear it will not split easily like a cast stock type gear will.

I always use a puller.

Heating the crank gear makes installation really easy though, slides right on using a welding glove or oven mitt.
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Old 08-20-2010, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
There is a slight interference fit to the nose of the cam into the back of the gear, about.060" deep, you just need to lever, wiggle, pry it loose, it isn't very tight. Crank gear has to be pulled with a gear puller, or split with a chisel if you are not trying to save it. just be careful not to ding the crank if you go the chisel route.



We ALL know that you removed the three 1/4" bolts from the cam, right !!
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Old 08-23-2010, 09:59 AM
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Look for an older guy in the neighbourhood who has worked on cars. One with some grey hair, make friends with him. They have a lot of knowledge about cars and most would be glad to help for a wobbly pop.
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Old 08-23-2010, 01:30 PM
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I have plenty of gray hair so I should know what I am doing. I will try to get a puller for the crank gear. Mine won't fit.
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Old 08-23-2010, 05:53 PM
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Did you get the cam gear off and the chain?
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Old 08-24-2010, 09:12 AM
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I will give it another try this evening. Too many honey do things on the list.
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:40 AM
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Got it off. Really a rookie mistake on my part. I had the bolts out but put them back in with the puller. Have not taken the sprocket off the crank but it looks good and it might not need to come off.
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Old 08-25-2010, 10:05 AM
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all 3 pieces

Should always replace all 3 pieces. Even slight wear on the crank gear will transfer wear to the cam gear via the chain, and fairly quickly.
Even if you're not pulling it for the purpose of replacing, it doesn't take many miles to get some stretch in the chain and gear wear. I replace the set every time I get a chance. Pays for itself in fuel mileage even after only 50,000 miles. My 2cents.
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Old 08-25-2010, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duntov
Should always replace all 3 pieces. Even slight wear on the crank gear will transfer wear to the cam gear via the chain, and fairly quickly.
Even if you're not pulling it for the purpose of replacing, it doesn't take many miles to get some stretch in the chain and gear wear. I replace the set every time I get a chance. Pays for itself in fuel mileage even after only 50,000 miles. My 2cents.
May I reinforce this by saying that the crank gear makes two revolutions for every one revolution of the cam gear . Definitely change the crank gear . It needs it .
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Old 08-25-2010, 12:38 PM
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I once had a high mile 283 that still ran well and I took it on a road trip. 300 miles from home on the return trip, it started losing oil from around the timing chain cover. I tightened the cover bolts a little and kept an eye on the oil level. It kept leaking oil, but ran fine. I made it home alright by adding oil all the way. I got it on a hoist and we found the chain had gotten stretched to a point that it wore a dime sized hole on one lower side of the cover. I could not believe the engine didn't jump out of time, and ran good with so much slap in the chain. I've never seen this happen before or since.
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