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Old 04-23-2013, 07:45 PM
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283 with a tunnel ram i need help

Hello I have a 283 that is 40 over with 2.02 heads and I want to put a tr1x tunnel ram on it I just don't know if I am going in the right direction with it so any advice should be greatly appreciated thanks

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Old 04-23-2013, 08:35 PM
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talk to the super stock guys that run wcfb carbs on tunnel rams.You need to post more info about the gizzards in your engine,, how big is your roller cam? CR?,what size primary tubes on your headers?
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1957 belair View Post
I just don't know if I am going in the right direction with it
What to you want the motor to do?
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:05 PM
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Well to be honest I am trying to get it to make about 450 hp and not over carbrate the motor i don't have a camshaft in it right now because I don't know what lift I need
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:56 PM
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getting 450 HP from 283 is possible,but expensive.You dont need anything over .600 lift solid roller.Probably 250@050. I would expect the redline over 7200,heads that can flow 250 cfm after facturing in the smaller than 4 inch bore,1 3/4 inch long tube headers with collector extensions,I would use a single 750 HP,not sure what intake,,,custom piston/head combination,,,
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Old 04-23-2013, 10:29 PM
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If you want big streetable power from a 283 you are much better off to supercharge it.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:25 AM
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There are trade-offs guys make using tunnel rams on the street.Don't fall for articles you read in the comic books like "Hot Rod". Spinning it high enough on the street for it to work,plan on freshening the valve train/bottom-end often.Try to look for a 283 before you do this so you know how much/how hard it is to replace the one you have should anything go wrong.

Think long and hard about cutting a hole in the hood of that classic 57 turning it into a fair weather driver as one of those trade-offs.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:37 AM
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If you're trying to have a theme for your build (like an era, or a car from a movie) and you're going to drive it on the street, you're probably better off building a 383 and doing a little misdirection to make it look at first glance to be an early smallblock.

If its more of a show car; and you don't want a blower or nitromethane, you'll need 4.56:1 gears, a 4speed and a modern cam (Something from Mike Jones Chris Straub or "UD Harold"). You'll need 10:1 CR or more and this will probably be a little tough to run on the street for most people and still 'only' have 450hp.
Sounds like a cool build; more details about what exactly you'd like your car to be and why you're using a sub-4" bore would help us more. Expect a fair share of 'build a xxx' which will probably be 350,383,406 etc. Cheaper, easier to make the power, broader torque curve and easier to drive.

Now if you strap a roots blower or a paxton on it; that changes the game entirely and would still be era appropriate for a 283 (late 50s to mid 60s). Hell thy even had turbochargers then; but it'd be hard to make an era correct appearance I think
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:49 AM
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I am trying to build a 1960s gasser with it and the reason for the 283 is I wanted to use what was more of a easy to find motor for them that's also why I have a old 60s tunnel ram
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 1957 belair View Post
I am trying to build a 1960s gasser with it and the reason for the 283 is I wanted to use what was more of a easy to find motor for them that's also why I have a old 60s tunnel ram
Well that being the case,go for it I guess.Be advised through packing miles on the street wears out parts faster than a race car thus the requirement of freshen it up for a look and needing a solid bottom end/valve train.
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:37 AM
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We did a Muncie for one of the guys thats involved in The Meltdown Drags a couple years ago (Hartman Handgrenade 55 chevy). It amazes me how fast some of these gasser guys are going. I second the suggestion to not whack a hole in a steel hood. Get a good glass hood and chop a hole in it if you go that route. If you could get a 327 you'd have an easier time; it'd still be spendy for a small journal 327 compared to a larger journal 327/350.

You may want to tread lightly with 2.02s on a 283; there can be some clearance issues.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:00 AM
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I admit I guess I have gone soft as I have gotten older.When I was younger I wouldn't give it second thought and do whatever I wanted.If fact yrs ago we cut up a cherry 1969 Balwin Camero to make it into a tube frame super gas car.Man the tens of thousands that would be worth today's money.Well we still have all the stuff to make another car into one.

If you have had a dream build in mind and of course it's your car,build what you want.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:04 AM
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My concern for the hood has less to do with restoration and more to do with the fact that it takes 2 men and a boy to install the dang thing. shaving weight is important; and if the steel hood isn't that important, sell it and use the money to help finance a roller cam
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by AutoGear View Post
If you're trying to have a theme for your build (like an era, or a car from a movie) and you're going to drive it on the street, you're probably better off building a 383 and doing a little misdirection to make it look at first glance to be an early smallblock.
^^^^This.

Look, the bottom line is that whatever you do to the 283, the same effort in a larger motor will produce more usable power (or conversely, getting the same power out of a larger motor requires less effort and money). Getting big power out of a tiny motor requires you to rev it to the moon, which not only requires expensive internal parts but gets old in a street driven car after a while.

Here's an example: HP produced is roughly related to the amount of air moved through an engine. A 383 at 5000 RPM moves about 550 CFM. A 283 needs to be revved to 6750 RPM to move the same amount of air (and thus make about the same power). Obviously supercharging changes this equation.

To the uninitiated, all SBCs look like a belly button. Get 283 stickers and valve covers and have at it.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano View Post
^^^^This.

Look, the bottom line is that whatever you do to the 283, the same effort in a larger motor will produce more usable power (or conversely, getting the same power out of a larger motor requires less effort and money). Getting big power out of a tiny motor requires you to rev it to the moon, which not only requires expensive internal parts but gets old in a street driven car after a while.

Here's an example: HP produced is roughly related to the amount of air moved through an engine. A 383 at 5000 RPM moves about 550 CFM. A 283 needs to be revved to 6750 RPM to move the same amount of air (and thus make about the same power). Obviously supercharging changes this equation.

To the uninitiated, all SBCs look like a belly button. Get 283 stickers and valve covers and have at it.
A 283 can move as much air as a 383 at the same RPM if the 383 is not designed for that rpm and the 283 is. That's the whole point of matching your components to your RPM.

If you're wanting to build a high revving 283 that will see street use I would instead consider building a chevy 302.

Use a 4 bolt LT1 engine as a foundation and run a roller cam with ported stock heads and intake, the EFI controls can help a great deal with making it streetable and still make power at 7,000 RPM.

You can also use something like a 4 bolt 880 block with aftermarket heads and EFI but it will cost a little more.


When all is said and done though a smaller engine will NOT make as much power as a larger one, and the only reason to go that route is simply "to be different".

It will be much more expensive to run the 283 you have than it would be to use a larger more modern engine if you are really aiming for 450hp.
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