289 - Advice Needed / Modified Heads on Stock Bottom
I don't work on cars, so I am hoping for some advice on the following.
I have a 1963 Comet S22 Convertible with a 289 V8 / 2-barrel stock engine. I have just had the bottom of the engine rebuilt: bored out +.010 with new aluminum pistons, new stock cam - basically rebuilt to original.
The heads/valves were shot. I found a set of complete heads at a great price as follows:
Ford 289 Cylinder Heads
Date Codes 6-A-3 & 6-A-13
These heads have Chevy valves in them.
Heads have 1.94 intake Valves. 1.6 Exhaust Valves.
8 Hardened Exhaust Seats installed. Valve Springs are good for 500 lift cam with 110 pounds closed and 280 open pressure.
3 Angle Valve Job. 16 New Valve Guides.
Heads have been resurfaced to 53 CC's.
Screw in studs and Guide Plates were installed.
The heads have been magnifluxed and pressure tested.
New seals have been installed.
The Exhaust Ports have been Ported to Header Gaskets for better flow.
(the seller of these heads said that he can make provisions for use with stock 289 exhaust manifolds)
My engine builder knows that I'm not trying to modify this engine, and advised me that these heads are 100% compatible with the "stock" bottom, stock camshaft, stock intake manifold and stock 2-barrel carb, and that the engine will run fine ... just that I won't be maximizing the potential of those heads.
Is there anything my engine builder may be overlooking ?
A friend of mine who is into racing strongly advised me against using these heads. He simply said that the heads will not work properly with a stock bottom & 2-barrel carb.
Any advice would be appreciated.
40 years ago doing that setup on the heads was quite common and it did wake up the motors. of course these days most guys bite it and buy a set of Roush or other aftermarket heads..bottom line..good setup and run em..Check compression as you may need to run premium gas..
Sounds good to me, also.
Be sure to check for the correct valve train geometry. Your builder will know about this, but there is a chance that stock length pushrods may not give you the right geometry. This is because of the valve job being done, the block and heads having been decked, the chance of a different thickness head gasket from stock, manufacturing tolerances, the type of rocker arms you use- ALL have an effect on what the right length p-rod will be needed.
Also, the guide plates need to be checked to be sure they're aligning the p-rods the way they're supposed to and not binding.
The guide slot in the head will need to be opened up some (if it hasn't been already) so the guide plates are doing the p-rod guiding and not BOTH the head's slot AND the guide plate- this doesn't work and will put the p-rod in a bind if both are trying to guide it.
Your heads are marked January, 1966. There was a change made during the year that went from stud mounted rockers guided by close tolerance head slots like I mentioned above, to self-aligning rockers. From HERE:
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