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  #16  
Old 04-18-2009, 03:14 PM
glen242 glen242 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
The trouble with that motor is its a low compression 8.5:1 motor with crappy smog era cylinder heads. Its a stock GM low perf motor that they stuffed a L82 cam in. Thats why its only 290hp and has no friggin torque.
Buy a rebuilt 350 with performance flat top pistons such as GM's ZZ4 short block or one from Blueprint Engines etc. Then pop a set of nice entry level aftermarket 64cc heads (like the new Edelbrock E-Street series), a Comp XE284H-10 cam, Edelbrock RPM intake, 750carb, Install it with a 3000- 3500stall converter and some gears in the rear and you've got a smooth dependable street motor that sounds great and actually goes.


Just asking, as I have no experience with the XE284H cam:

I am running a XE274H in my 383 10.3 static CR. It performs well for what I want. Would the XE284 be overkill on a street 350?

I guess I am asking if my 383 is undercammed for strictly street use, or the XE284 would be overcammed on a 350?


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  #17  
Old 04-18-2009, 06:20 PM
eric32 eric32 is offline
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Honestly my build was quite cheap.And everything is new and will hold up to 450 plus horsepower just fine. Here it is


Engine block new 750
New Cast steel crank 180
New hypereutectic pistons 100
Piston rings 40
New Scat forged rods 225
Bearings cam,rod,and main about 75
Total for shortblock Just a little over 1400.

That is with all new parts. with machine work to block and balancing I have just around 1800. You can get the same setup as mine and you would be happy with it. I did mine that way instead of the gm shortblock cause I wanted just a little more durability and hyperteuctic pistons instead of the regular cast. But you can get a gm l31 shortblock from skip white on ebay or from jegs or summitracing and its already put together for less then 1500 bucks. With a set of vortec heads from scoggin dickey with the added features and a edelbrock vortec intake you would have a really nice motor with the right cam. If you want streetability with some monster power get a comp xtreme engery 268h cam wich has 224/230 at 50 duration and good lift. You will get good power. I have a tired old vortec in my 96 s10 with everything stock except just an edelbrock intake and 600 performer carb nothing special and it runs good for being tired out and with only 200 to 250 at the most horse power. With the combo above you would have 350 horse power easy and get decent gas mileage with the right gearing and a 700r4 with overdrive. I like to put motors together with new parts. To me cranks that are undersized and rods that are redone are still worn put parts that will eventually fail from fatigue. I would go with the l31 gmshortblock build and go from there . That is the best bang for your buck and with cast pistons you will still be ok with 350 horsepower or so.

Eric
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  #18  
Old 04-18-2009, 06:27 PM
eric32 eric32 is offline
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Here is a link on ebay a brand new gm 350 l31 shortblock for 1295.00 and that is about the best price you can get. You can even go oem roller setup and get even more horsepower with a hydraullic roller cam. Its up to you just trying to give you some pointers. I would have gotten this setup if I did not have the extra that I cam up with and I am sure it would of been fun to run.
Eric
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  #19  
Old 04-18-2009, 08:06 PM
Carlos9 Carlos9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis73
There are a few thousand places where you can buy a completely remanufactured Vortec longblock with your choice of 9.5 or 10.5:1 compression for $1600 shipped air freight to your door with a warranty.

RapidO marine is one of them. Just tell them you want a Vortec longblock with 9.5:1. Stuff in a nice cam and have fun.

I never really understood the value of a "crate" engine. People are paying $1900 for smoggers with low compression, and up to $6000 for 450 hp. Shop around folks. I buy chevys all the time: $900 for reman vortec shortblocks and $1200 for reman vortec longblocks with warranties. Do your own cam and intake and you can tune one of those anywhere from 190 hp to 450 hp if you buy the right compression.

Sure, the big-name companies build reliable race engines, but if you find a good machine shop that builds good shortblocks, they will last just as long and make just as much grin on your face.


Agree, I can put em together much cheaper than that too. I think people look at the crate motors as convenience and they 'think' they are getting a good deal/motor because of the word crate and it comes as a long block. They are just too dam expensive though if you've built a few motors before. I have to agree with you there.

For the price some of you guys build motors for.. I can build 2.
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  #20  
Old 04-18-2009, 08:53 PM
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F-BIRD'88 F-BIRD'88 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glen242
Just asking, as I have no experience with the XE284H cam:

I am running a XE274H in my 383 10.3 static CR. It performs well for what I want. Would the XE284 be overkill on a street 350?

I guess I am asking if my 383 is undercammed for strictly street use, or the XE284 would be overcammed on a 350?


There is no such thing as too much cam. Just not enough motor.
The XE284 makes more top end power than the XE274.

No, its not too much for a 350.
Favours the higher end of the usable "pump gas" compression ratio range.
Wants a good bit of rear gear and converter stall.
If all you do is cruise, then don't worry about it.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88 : 04-18-2009 at 09:33 PM.
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  #21  
Old 04-19-2009, 07:27 AM
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J4strack J4strack is offline
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Thanks you all the great ideas. What would be the best short block, head, cam and intake setup for a street rod?
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  #22  
Old 04-19-2009, 11:21 AM
Carlos9 Carlos9 is offline
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Do you have anything already. You can use your existing block if you have one and it's not bored .060 already. Go to the junk yard or engine core yard and buy yourself a block (with the intention to build). I pay $75 for any block I want ford/chevy/mopar etc. at core yard near me. Look at the blocks closely.. and pick the best one. Also look at craigslist in your area, again with the intention of looking for something to build. This may be a better route. I would look for something $200 or less. I say this may be a better route because you'll get everything (oil pan, pulleys, brackets etc).

Be careful how you spend your cheddar. You sound very new to this and before you know if.. you'll be out thousands and still on this board asking what to buy. It's not hard, find a good buildable block and start from there.

Here are some additional considerations:

Do you want early 2 pc main block
Do you want late 1 pc main block (non roller) L31 block
Do you want late 1 pc main block (with OE roller set-up) L31 block also

All are good choices, but you may see the later blocks are a tad more expensive to build. If in doubt, bounce things here before you move.

Good luck!
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  #23  
Old 04-19-2009, 09:32 PM
dirtinla dirtinla is offline
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Check out these deals... goto the bottom of the page. 350 s/b $465.00

http://www.blainesmotorsupply.com/pricelist.pdf

I just bought a 350 and a set of heads... talk to Sean. Great guys to work with. short block and heads look great. Building it as we speak.

Tell Sean Fred sent you.

-=Fred=-
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  #24  
Old 04-20-2009, 09:28 AM
Carlos9 Carlos9 is offline
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There you go. Not sure if you are cloe to dallas, but this might work for you.
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  #25  
Old 04-21-2009, 07:04 PM
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J4strack J4strack is offline
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Thanks for all the help, i will have a motor combo for everyones review soon, thanks
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  #26  
Old 04-21-2009, 09:31 PM
roknroy roknroy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J4strack
I am trying to keep cost down, just looked at a Jon Barrett motor, the 290 long block is about $1,900, plus cam and intake. I get a different ides from everyone i talk to, want a daily driver type motor that still sounds good.
one thing i learned about hotrodding, is that everyone has a different budget, and that's most important. build what you can afford, don't worry about anybody else. we all want a 572 crate motor!
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  #27  
Old 04-22-2009, 01:31 PM
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Another suggestion, if you are inclined to a crate motor. Instead of the 290, you get the 330. A short block is about $700 more than the 290 and you get most of the goodies, a decent street cam with a good "lump" all the Vortech goodies etc.

I had the same decision to make ( and sorta still do) as I am planning on having the 330 installed next week (anyone want a deal on a decent 305?).

My decision was based on the 290 was just a great street engine that was more than adequate, but blah, I have that now. Looked at the ZZ4 and said to myself, this looks good. A lot of bang for the buck and I'd have some bragging rights.

The ZZ4 makes more horsepower, but only a little more torque. It's torque that spins the wheels and gets you going. It's torque that you feel (along with gravity) in your back when you step on it.

Let's do some comparison:

350/290 350/330 ZZ4

HP: 290 330 355
Torque: 326 380 405


Without boring you with my $$$ thoughts, the 330 stands out as a bargain with a warranty at ANY GM dealer.
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