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  #1  
Old 04-17-2009, 12:23 PM
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J4strack J4strack is offline
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290 HP GM performance long block

I am thinking of getting a 290 HP GM long block, but want to put a cam in it for a better hotrod sound, Will this be enough HP for a glass 34? What type of cam, intake, carb would be best?


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  #2  
Old 04-17-2009, 12:36 PM
sandiegopaul sandiegopaul is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J4strack
I am thinking of getting a 290 HP GM long block, but want to put a cam in it for a better hotrod sound, Will this be enough HP for a glass 34? What type of cam, intake, carb would be best?


Why not buy one of the ZZ motors if you're looking at a crate engine? ZZ4 is a great little engine
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Old 04-17-2009, 12:40 PM
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$$

I am trying to keep cost down, just looked at a Jon Barrett motor, the 290 long block is about $1,900, plus cam and intake. I get a different ides from everyone i talk to, want a daily driver type motor that still sounds good.
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Old 04-17-2009, 12:58 PM
ap72 ap72 is online now
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You'll need a small cam with that low compression, I'd want to stay away from that but when cost and conveniece are key its not a bad option.

Its a light enough viehicle, but you can never have enough power.
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Old 04-17-2009, 02:02 PM
roknroy roknroy is offline
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put a comp cams 268 hydraulic cam, with an idle-5500rpm intake, and 600cfm carb. cam has a nice little sound, works with that compression. you'll end up with around 320hp.
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Old 04-17-2009, 02:34 PM
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The trouble with that motor is its a low compression 8.5:1 motor with crappy smog era cylinder heads. Its a stock GM low perf motor that they stuffed a L82 cam in. Thats why its only 290hp and has no friggin torque.
Buy a rebuilt 350 with performance flat top pistons such as GM's ZZ4 short block or one from Blueprint Engines etc. Then pop a set of nice entry level aftermarket 64cc heads (like the new Edelbrock E-Street series), a Comp XE284H-10 cam, Edelbrock RPM intake, 750carb, Install it with a 3000- 3500stall converter and some gears in the rear and you've got a smooth dependable street motor that sounds great and actually goes.
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  #7  
Old 04-17-2009, 03:39 PM
oldbogie oldbogie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J4strack
I am thinking of getting a 290 HP GM long block, but want to put a cam in it for a better hotrod sound, Will this be enough HP for a glass 34? What type of cam, intake, carb would be best?


This engine already comes with too much cam and not enough cylinder head.

Either spend the money to put Vortecs on that engine or go get 12486041 330 horse for 800 bucks more and build on that.

Neither have pistons worth a damn. Lousy squish/quench. I'd go to my local machine shop with a laundry list and see what they'd charge for an engine with the right stuff in it from a used block.


Bogie

Last edited by oldbogie : 04-17-2009 at 03:45 PM.
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  #8  
Old 04-17-2009, 05:21 PM
eric32 eric32 is offline
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If you want to you can buy a brand new block for 650 bucks and buy aftermarket parts and for around 1300 bucks you can have a really nice build. I spent around 1300 bucks I got a new gm 350 block and got a brand new scat crank and scat forged rods and speed pro hypereutecitc pistons and a decent set of moly rings. I also spent more to have the block decked and a very minor cylinder hone for a moly ring finish and balancing of the rotating assembly. There is a good quality build for 400 plus horse power. Save some money and build it yourself if you got the funds. If not then get a gm shortblock wich is durable with a cast nodular iron crank and powder metal rods and cast aluminum pistons. If you get some 64 cc chamber heads you will have around 9 to 1 compression. Get a cam with around 220 @ 50 duration and a set of decent flowing heads such as world product heads or vortec from Scoggin Dickey wich is machined for more lift etc and you will have an awesome build and won't cost you an arm and a leg. If you can save more money if you can and build it the way you want too. I have rushed several times over and was not happy with my build in the last ten years and have gone through 4 engine builds. Trust me from experience its better to save more and wait then to rush and not be happy with it. Get the gm shortblock and even with the crappy dish type piston its not the end of the world and can still be used for a decent street build.
eric

Last edited by eric32 : 04-17-2009 at 05:28 PM.
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  #9  
Old 04-17-2009, 05:55 PM
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Best place to buy

Is there a one stop shop to buy the parts? If going with a pre built block, is it better to buy a short block and add the heads you want? Thanks for the detailed info!
Quote:
Originally Posted by eric32
If you want to you can buy a brand new block for 650 bucks and buy aftermarket parts and for around 1300 bucks you can have a really nice build. I spent around 1300 bucks I got a new gm 350 block and got a brand new scat crank and scat forged rods and speed pro hypereutecitc pistons and a decent set of moly rings. I also spent more to have the block decked and a very minor cylinder hone for a moly ring finish and balancing of the rotating assembly. There is a good quality build for 400 plus horse power. Save some money and build it yourself if you got the funds. If not then get a gm shortblock wich is durable with a cast nodular iron crank and powder metal rods and cast aluminum pistons. If you get some 64 cc chamber heads you will have around 9 to 1 compression. Get a cam with around 220 @ 50 duration and a set of decent flowing heads such as world product heads or vortec from Scoggin Dickey wich is machined for more lift etc and you will have an awesome build and won't cost you an arm and a leg. If you can save more money if you can and build it the way you want too. I have rushed several times over and was not happy with my build in the last ten years and have gone through 4 engine builds. Trust me from experience its better to save more and wait then to rush and not be happy with it. Get the gm shortblock and even with the crappy dish type piston its not the end of the world and can still be used for a decent street build.
eric
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  #10  
Old 04-17-2009, 06:09 PM
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list of parts

Would you mind putting a list of parts for a good 350, so i can price it out, thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
The trouble with that motor is its a low compression 8.5:1 motor with crappy smog era cylinder heads. Its a stock GM low perf motor that they stuffed a L82 cam in. Thats why its only 290hp and has no friggin torque.
Buy a rebuilt 350 with performance flat top pistons such as GM's ZZ4 short block or one from Blueprint Engines etc. Then pop a set of nice entry level aftermarket 64cc heads (like the new Edelbrock E-Street series), a Comp XE284H-10 cam, Edelbrock RPM intake, 750carb, Install it with a 3000- 3500stall converter and some gears in the rear and you've got a smooth dependable street motor that sounds great and actually goes.
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  #11  
Old 04-17-2009, 06:29 PM
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first build

After reading 383 teardown, dont know if i want to tackle a build myself. What would you suggest for a 350? short block and build from there or a long block? I would like just to drop in the motor, but sound like i can get more motor if i piece it together, any thoughts?
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
This engine already comes with too much cam and not enough cylinder head.

Either spend the money to put Vortecs on that engine or go get 12486041 330 horse for 800 bucks more and build on that.

Neither have pistons worth a damn. Lousy squish/quench. I'd go to my local machine shop with a laundry list and see what they'd charge for an engine with the right stuff in it from a used block.


Bogie
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  #12  
Old 04-17-2009, 06:40 PM
oldbogie oldbogie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J4strack
Would you mind putting a list of parts for a good 350, so i can price it out, thanks


First off, unless you can belly up to the bar and pay for a full up ready race crate engine, they are like buying a new Harley to build a chopper. By the time you rip off all the crap you don't need, all the crap that isn't right, then go back and build it right your ahead to buy a pile of parts specific to what you want to end up with and start there.

So your open ended question needs to drive some tent stakes as to you what you want to end up with.

1) how will it be used street cruiser, occasional romp at the strip, you wanna be able to blow the doors off all comers are a few choices?

2) how big (displacement)?

3 Auto or stick?

4) Vehicle weight?

5) wheels and tires?

6) gears?

7) is gas mileage important?

8) Air conditioning or not?

9) smooth idle or something that scares AA fuel drivers?

Some things like these need your consideration before an engine gets figured out.

Bogie
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  #13  
Old 04-17-2009, 06:59 PM
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street cruiser

Street crusier, 350, auto 350 or 400 or 700r4,2,500 pounds, still need to get rear end, can get what is needed, mpg? want great rod, mpg is what it is, Thanks hope this helps!
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
First off, unless you can belly up to the bar and pay for a full up ready race crate engine, they are like buying a new Harley to build a chopper. By the time you rip off all the crap you don't need, all the crap that isn't right, then go back and build it right your ahead to buy a pile of parts specific to what you want to end up with and start there.

So your open ended question needs to drive some tent stakes as to you what you want to end up with.

1) how will it be used street cruiser, occasional romp at the strip, you wanna be able to blow the doors off all comers are a few choices?
street cruiser
2) how big (displacement)?
car fram set up for 350 block
3 Auto or stick?
auto 350 or 400, maybe 770r4
4) Vehicle weight?
not much, maybe 2,500 pounds
5) wheels and tires? 15" 195 70's i think

6) gears?? still need to get a rear end

7) is gas mileage important?not really, maybe 14 to 16 mpg, but a great rod is more important

8) Air conditioning or not?
yes
9) smooth idle or something that scares AA fuel drivers? looking for good sound in the pipes

Some things like these need your consideration before an engine gets figured out.
Thanks for any help!
Bogie
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  #14  
Old 04-18-2009, 09:23 AM
ap72 ap72 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J4strack
Street crusier, 350, auto 350 or 400 or 700r4,2,500 pounds, still need to get rear end, can get what is needed, mpg? want great rod, mpg is what it is, Thanks hope this helps!


I'd go with a freshened up Vortec engine with a new intake and a cam/spring combo (along with required head machining). You can swap in a mild hyd. roller, and with a carb and ignition you're all set for less than 3G's. It'll be more than enough power, VERY RELIABLE and LOW MAITENANCE, and can get you an easy 400hp on even 87 octane if you set it all up right.
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  #15  
Old 04-18-2009, 10:38 AM
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There are a few thousand places where you can buy a completely remanufactured Vortec longblock with your choice of 9.5 or 10.5:1 compression for $1600 shipped air freight to your door with a warranty.

RapidO marine is one of them. Just tell them you want a Vortec longblock with 9.5:1. Stuff in a nice cam and have fun.

I never really understood the value of a "crate" engine. People are paying $1900 for smoggers with low compression, and up to $6000 for 450 hp. Shop around folks. I buy chevys all the time: $900 for reman vortec shortblocks and $1200 for reman vortec longblocks with warranties. Do your own cam and intake and you can tune one of those anywhere from 190 hp to 450 hp if you buy the right compression.

Sure, the big-name companies build reliable race engines, but if you find a good machine shop that builds good shortblocks, they will last just as long and make just as much grin on your face.

Last edited by curtis73 : 04-18-2009 at 10:43 AM.
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