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Old 07-27-2006, 12:33 AM
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2nd paint job coming up within a week......

Anyone want to give me odds on whether it will turn out well?

My first job was horrid. It ended up with a ton of orange peel, which I am attributing to a very hot day and possibly a poorly adjusted gun.

I have picked up some very useful info here, and I have taken my time on prep, so I am expecting this one to turn out better. (hoping too)

I'll be spraying the longroof Nova victory red with a white top. It'll be bc/cc. If any of you have any last second advice, I'd be glad to hear it.

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Old 07-27-2006, 01:33 PM
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The prep work is the key. If it isn't correct then the paint job looks like *****. This is the steps that we do at my shop.
1. Wash the car with a powerwasher if you have one or hand wash it.
2. Wipe it down with wax and grease remover.
3. Do your bodywork. (use rubber gloves since you've got a clean car.)
4. blow down the car to remove the sanding dust.
5. Wipe it down again with wax and grease remover.
6. Apply etch primer to the bare metal areas. (try to keep the etch off the filler area.)
7. Apply epoxy to the entire car.
8. D/A the epoxy with 320 dry.
9. Wet sand the epoxy with no finer than 400.
10. wipe down the car with a freash water soaked white t-shirt.

Now if you did every thing correct at this point then you will have a good starting point for paint. Another key is to apply the primer just as you would the BC/CC. Use the correct air pressure and gun distance. Some will disagree with this next statement, but I've done testing after testing and have found out that this is what causes most of the orange peel that I use to have. If the gun is set up right (ie the 6" fan and correct air pressure with the trigger pulled) the orange peel is being caused by holding the gun to close to the surface. I shoot with a sata jet 2000 and a 1.4 for clear and a 1.3 for base. I use to hold the gun about 6 inches or a hand length away and I noticed that I'd have some orange peel. Now I hold it back about 8 to 9 inches away and haven't had a wet sand yet because of orange peel. Also watch your flash times. Because the P-sheet says it takes 15 minutes between coat doesn't really mean 15 minutes. It can be more or less depending on the activator/hardner or temp. Use the old finger on the tape trick. Your next coat should go on when the clear leaves a string on your glove. That way it will melt right in with the previous coat.

After you have wiped down the car with the wet t-shirt, you really would want to retape the car. I use to not do it because it's just to time consuming, but now I do. I hate when I'm putting a coat of paint on and dust comes out from the paper. So save your self the hassel and retape and paper the car.
Next wipe down the car with wax and grease remover and then tack it down.
After everything is ready to go and your ready for color, drain your compressor. No need in having water dump out when you've work this hard. Apply 3 medium coats of base. You don't want it shiny, so the first coat should never cover completely, and tack after each coat. Now if it's a metalic you want to add a 4th coat. The 4th will be a mist coat. Drop the pressure down 5psi and stand back a foot and a half and go to town.

After the color is on and cured you would either want to blow down the car if it's metalics or tack it if its solid. Just make sure every thing is clean either way. Next put on the clear.

Good luck
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Old 07-27-2006, 02:45 PM
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correction to the test for the next coat of clear. I said that you want to apply the next coat when the paint strings up on your finger, that is incorrect, you want it tacky not stringy. Sorry for any confussion.
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Old 07-28-2006, 01:39 AM
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Excellent, thanks.

That is right on line with what I've read, but the wet t-shirt method I hadn't seen.

Fingers crossed.

Unfortunately, I lost a day of prep today when the water pump took a dump in my other vehicle.

Thanks again.
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Old 07-28-2006, 02:01 AM
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a white T-shirt is the same as a lint free cloth.
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