3/32" Orbit Sanders for sanding Clear - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2013, 11:35 AM
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Okay, it's a "Mirka" made disc from Sweden, if I'm correct, the brand name is a bit hard to read on my computer but the Bull Dog is a dead give away...I'm not 100% sure but they, along with SIA where one of the first to use velcro as a device to hold sandpaper on a pad instead of the PSA system used by most North American manufacturer's. Not that it matters, just a trivial point.

I can appreciate using a hose for wet sanding, that's great, as long as the hose is clean and your over a drain. I also like to keep my wet sanding water warm, it cleans better and seems to cut better as well. These are just opinions, a hose works great, I've done it that way with good results...with and without being over a drain...being over a drain works much better...LOL

Ray

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2013, 11:42 AM
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I've used those Abralon discs a lot, mostly
2000 $ 4000 grit.
I've never gotten any pig tail scratches with those.
I do run them slow with just a little soapy water.
I think they work great.
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Old 08-04-2013, 11:33 AM
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I sometimes use a soft pad 3/32" orbital DA but it's after wet sanding with a small block. A lot of guys who use them don't know how to do it correctly and leave pig tails everywhere. Pigtails are created by running it too fast and not keeping the pad clean and moist. Not a great way to cut even peel but good to help make buffing easier after the peel is cut.
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Old 03-16-2015, 11:27 AM
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Sanding and Buffing A Super High Gloss Shine

One of the most important things that many forget, for high gloss shine, is which paints to use.
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Old 03-16-2015, 12:17 PM
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Just out of curiosity which clear do you use, and how many coats of clear?
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Old 03-16-2015, 12:26 PM
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I think a DA with the 3/32" is essential to get the true gloss out of a color. I'm not sure they have 3000-5000 for wet sanding but know they do have trizac and there's a clear difference in the gloss when you properly cancel out all the scratches and are dealing with a true 3000-5000 scratch. It's most noticeable in metallic when you leave it at something like 2500 and don't go any further. You can still faintly see scratches if you're looking. Pig tails aren't an issue with trizac if you go slow, use an old tooth brush to keep it clean, and spray it with soapy water to keep it wet while sanding. That said, there's also a noticeable difference to a finish if you start it off by wet sanding with a hard block. I like to take advantage of both and do both. Doing one without the other doesn't give me the results I'm looking for.
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Old 03-16-2015, 04:40 PM
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Most people have their own preferance for clears, whatever it may be, usually a high solids content. I personally have used many different brands, but the one thing they all have in common is the amount of clear I always put down and that would be for the most "cushion" to sand into to get those super flat, clear reflections. And that would be 5 coats in one spray session.
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Old 03-18-2015, 10:15 AM
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This is a very old thread.

If you still can see tiny scratches after sanding with 2500,
you're not buffing enough, or not with an aggressive enough compound.
With an aggressive enough compound and the right pad you
can buff the clear completely off if you go to far, tiny scratches
are no problem.
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Old 03-18-2015, 10:37 AM
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I think it's much easier to cut beyond 2500 instead of over buffing or using aggressive cut compounds that create swirls. It's much much easier finishing it off with 3000 with a DA, and even better with 5000. The scratches are more consistent than human created scratches and therefore you're not focused on troubled areas. Edges would be an area you're only over focused on but that's the nature of the beast with buffing. You're always gonna do what seems to be more buffing on edges, but at least you won't do as much chasing in the middle of panels if everything is properly sanded to 3000 or 5000. just my 2 cents.
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