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Here in lies the problem of dynoing my ride. As you all know it will show rear wheel power which is not something I can relate to. However, that said, for 80 bucks, it will be interesting to see where I stand next to the new rides which the dyno shop will tell me. As for the misses, when we were 1st married I would suffer a heart attack when she stepped out of the shower for she had a body that rivaled Kim Kardashian's. Now, I have a heart attack when she steps out of the shower but not for the same reasons!
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I can relate, I'm 66 years old and have been married to this one for 15 years. She used to complain when I would smoke some kid on the street in my T Bucket or one of the Mustangs. I have some hope because the other day we were watching Stallone in the Avengers drive that 56 Ford truck in the chase scene she said "Listen to that thing wind up". You can have hope in any woman who recognises a great sounding engine like that.
The dyno guy can tell you but I usually add 50 to 75 HP to whatever they say to cover parasitic losses. Horsepower ratings are more for bench racing bragging rights, anyway most people lie about them. I used to carry the dyno print out with a 9.26 1/4 mile timing slip to show anyone that needed convincing. We have an outlaw 1/8 mile strip 15 miles away where this kind of stuff gets settled. It just occurred to me that I drive through Richmond every time I take my wife to see her family in Flemingsburg. Quote:
Last edited by Choctaw Bob; 09-11-2012 at 02:39 PM. |
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The drag strips are fun, but a race car and road car are different. A built machine screaming at 7000rpm is not going be fine in traffic. In town a 5500rpm machine will be more fun. Case being when are you going to wind up 7k rpm going to work to get that peaky power. It is time and place. Work or play.
Yeah the built woman look good in the beginning, then gravity pulls it down. Then there is the charge bill they have no idea how to budget. What is a outfit good for if you can only wear it once. |
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That used to be true in the old days when to make horse power you had to wind them up. Since an engine is an air pump the way to make power is to pump more air. With the advent of modern head air flow technology and hydraulic roller cams everything changed. A roller cam opens the valves quicker and obtains higher lifts than is possible with a flat tappet cam. Thus, the air pump achieves the same air flow at a much lower RPM than before. The famous Chevrolet 350 HP 350 cam had 290 degrees duration and .460 lift. This is a very streetable cam for a factory muscle car and needed to be wound over 6500 RPM. to make full power. My 350 Howard hydraulic roller has 288 degrees and 530 lift and makes over 500 HP @ 5500.
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Reading between the lines that U gents wrote I'm envisioning some monster yet very streetable high horse power machines out there...I'm envious! As for the misses...I'm also seeing that I'm not the only one who's crying for the old days. Yes, the misses has changed with gravity taking it's tole. However, if I squint my eyes and catch her in just the correct lightning I can still catch a glimpse of a gorgeous lady. I was certainly lucky then and I'm lucky now....I just wish she'd let loose of some extra cash so I could make some real power with my ride!!
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A roller cam is not magic. The small amount of return you get under the curve is not worth the price to convert. Half a inch lift ,is a half inch of lift. The spring pressures are there. You can reduce them with multiple valves like modern 4 valve engines.
The edelbrock crate 420hp RPM or the Mopar crate 380 HP 360 both have roller cams. Both are well designed and not for heavy vehicles. Neither make a great road engine. To go bigger heades and cam only makes driveability worse. A roller cam is not magically have 5000rpm powerband. No carbureted build is. A built hot small block usually doesnt get organized till 3-4 k rpm. It is getting easy to spot the experienced. Important* Nothing wrong with good love at 5'3" 160 36 x 26x 46 ! |
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D, why not get 2 things you want? Send the old girl in and get the filling removed,iron out the wrinkles,lift the suspension and get a new paint job.Wait a week for it all to cure.The cost is maybe 10k ish. The return is obvious,you get a new toy to play with that looks updated and great.She will be so happy with the mirror and attention you give her,Im sure she would reciprocate and let you spend a bit on the car. You win twice.
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As far as roller cams not being magic,thats true,lol. I have 3.5 gears a 5 spd and I can plod along in 5th at 2,000 rpm doing 60 mph with no problems.My power starts under 2,000. If Im in 1st gear and use more than 1/2 throttle at or before 2,000 rpm the tires break loose.If Im in second gear and plant the throttle anywhere near 3,000 rpm the tires break loose. I know my engine will rev to 6500 rpm but I put a 6k chip in the ignition to keep the car controlled easier.Its a small block and n.a.
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Nah, not the way it works. clutch out at 2000 rpms and you floor it with 3.5 gears and good tire, it does not have the intake velocity to spin them. The engine has to increase piston speed rapidly. Only way is to slip the clutch at that rpm. Who you kidding.
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V, think about the physics of motion. You are moving forward at 2000rpm locked up drive train, and have traction. You have no from a stop launch impact at the tires. Just the pump shot.
You are proud of what you built and that is awesome. When my cuda had the 4.10 gears in it 1st gear clutch out at 2000rpm, it would not spin them with cheap 265/60 15 street tires. That roller 440 makes 550hp/550 TQ. Dyno sheet in photos, car in journal. |
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You had a heavier car with less power.My car breaks the tires loose from the carb being yanked open.Ill give you all the details on the engine down to the plug wires if you want. My car is not a fast car compared to a lot around here. There are also some very slow cars here that should run better.
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300 HP/ 383...naw!
Not to rob this post but talking about the Cuda reminded me back of in the 70's. I had a 67 Barracuda 2dr coupe. It was a Formula S 383 4 speed with 3.90 gears. Now that was a fun car to drive. The only thing that was frustrating I couldn't keep a clutch disc in it. Even a Hayes racing clutch I shifted about 5Gs and it would blow.
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Rob it, of what. Not possible its just poeple talking , taking it in all directions with a nice even flow. Youre staying right with the current. Dont get sucked under when youre to the drain.
Cuda's were fine. My 71 440 convert has been in the family forever. Money does not have enough value to buy it. The 83/4 rear can swap gears in the same time it takes to change the oil. ceramic material lasts a lttle longer than organic clutch wise. If you know how to drive it can last a while. My girlfriend fights the garage door return spring to press the clutch, and hates it. To used to her civics hydraulic. Last edited by spinn; 09-12-2012 at 11:05 AM. |
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