I am building a 302 for my 62 Ford falcon. Last night I got to work cleaning up the block to start getting the rotating assembly in. And I found that the passenger side front motor mount has part of it broken off. It's broken off down to the treads.
I also found that one of the oil pan bolt holes has been drilled out several times or so it looks. Im wondering with the signs of abuse or neglect if its even worth building. Im hoping with my set up to be in the 375 up range maybe a bit more.
So should I have it looked at and go from there or should I just look for another block or? The block is a 79 block so its non roller cam but I have bought a roller cam conversion for it. So what do you guys think. Thanks Anthony
Should also mention that it is bored 30 over. And my pistons are set up as such.
Buy a late model mustang 5.0 engine. They are plentiful and pretty good price even for a complete running engine. Look on CL and such. Roller cam ready, no conversion needed.
Ok couple more questions. My local scrap yard has a 5.0 from a 99 explorer. Would that be a suitable replacement? And also can I use my rotating assembly. It's been set for the 28.2 oz balance. They are asking 350 for the complete engine. That seems to be a pretty fair price to me. I will be carbing this so I won't need alot of the stuff on the engine. So in your opinion would this be the way to go? Thanks Anthony
. X 2... sounds like minor, trivial, easy to fix or adjust for problems... especially since it's already bored and ready to go... block is just something to hold all the parts in... HP comes from the heads and cam...
. Your cam choice should be capable of up to 425-450 HP... weakest link is prolly the Eddy RPM heads... I'm not that familiar with the SBF 302 version of them, but they are prolly good to at least 350-375 HP...
.
Yes as Eric states they are not interchangeable. Not sure of your bolt extraction prowess and skill. I have never used an easy out, drill or any cutting tool to extract broken studs or bolts even if the broken part is below the surface for over 10 years. I weld a nut to the broken fastener. If below the surface I build up with weld, then the nut over that. Depending the situation I use TIG or MIG to do this. Been doing this for many years.
Now back to your block issue. If you buy the complete 5.0 engine you can sell the rest of the stuff you do not need. EFI, Intake, sensors...etc. This may allow you to break even. You have not stated what you have for a rotating assembly if it is anything special so we cannot compare here. However, I have seen a lot of late model blocks and cranks take a lot of abuse before splitting (i.e. boost, etc.). A main girdle support is also a good choice for these blocks as well. There are arguments that all they do is keep the parts together when the block splits, but I have machined a couple of blocks for these girldles(need to machine the caps), so you have to get it done right.
Checks and balances would be needed here on your part to make the decisions and the results you are looking for.
Also 375HP from a little 302 is going to be a feat. You did not state your specs or how you are going to get there, boosted or N/A, stroked, etc. Might want to start with a 351 set up from a late model truck, I think 94 and up are machined for factory roller cams. This might be a better starting point. It will not take a lot of money in high end parts to attain that goal. Some decent heads and a mild roller cam (dime a dozen in the Ford Racing series cams. B, X, etc and many 5.0 guys selling this stuff cheap), intake, headers and 650 DP and you are there.
Im putting this in a 62 Ford falcon. So no room for the 351. The build is as follows:
Stock crank and rods
Speed pro pistons with a compression height of 1.605
Edelbrock performer rpm heads
Edelbrock performer 600cfm carb
Comp cams 31-432-8 .512 lift on intake and exhaust 220 duration 110 lobe desperation angel. It's a roller cam.
Doug's tri y headers
Not dead set on ignition yet but prob an hei distributor with a msd spark box.
I want to hit 350ft/lb of tq. That will be more than plenty for the little falcon. Should also mention that I have already had my rotating assembly balanced. Thanks Anthony
So im not sure what I should do at this point. Spend 6-700 bucks and have a different block machined. Or should I buy the 99 explorer motor and just make sure the bottom end stuff looks good and then sell the other rotating assembly and the roller conversion cam. Then put one my other top end stuff and buy a new cam? What would be most cost effective? I would like to he overt the 300hp mark at a minimum. Thanks Anthony
85 gts had factory rollers. Yup a doner 87 and up mustang gt would be good. Even you could use the efi and a lot of other stuff from a Fox body mustang to your falcon.post a pic of the broken bolt issues on your block.
Hear are some pics of the oil pan bolt hole and of the engine mount. Thanks Anthony
For some reason my pic of the motor mount will not come through so i will try and post it later. Thanks Anthony
You might be able to fake it W/ JB weld. It's not a real critical location and you have a lot of other bolts remaining to help.
As for the 351. I put one in a '64. The shock towers can be chopped and a plate welded in. I ran headers. While you're in there, you might want to lower the upper control arm mount holes 1 1/4". This is what they did on the GT 350's. I put a 289 in a '61 and had to take a sledge to the firewall. It would have worked with a 5 bolt bell but mine was a 6 as is everything since 1966.
A roller cam is the trick set up but I wonder if you'll really notice that much of a difference. Longevity and the ability to handle more radical grinds are the main advantages. The spring pressures were so high on the boss 302s that they ran a 60" radius tappet and they worked. Flat tappets have been run for many years and miles with few problems. I, personally, would not buy another engine for that reason only.
The oil pan rail bolt hole can be dealt with, either JB Weld in a stud or you could drill the hole larger yet but truly round and use a thread repair insert like a Time-Sert or make a plug from a 1/2"-20 fine thread bolt, thread it into that redrilled and tapped 1/2" bad hole, then drill that plug for the 1/4"-20 course thread original bolt.
The Motor mount picture doesn't come through big enough for me to see enough detail to say anything about what to do with it...think you could post a closer or expandable shot??
I just did this yesterday to a SBC he just bought for a great price pan to carb and a TH350 trans too boot. Had the motor mount bolt broken in the block. Almost flush. I welded a washer to the broken fastener then welded a nut to the washer. Took 2 tries. Cake.
Took some better pics of the broken ear on the mount and showed them to the local machine shop. He said to stop whining and build the dang thing. So that's what I'm going to do. Will be working on that in the next few days. But first I have some blasting to finish up on my engine bay. Thanks Anthony
. Great minds DO think alike... LOL! ... He didn't offer to weld some metal on there for you? ... That's why you hang out with other local rodders... if you were near me I would have just welded some metal on there to tap some new threads into... it looks like it broke because the mount was just hanging by ONE bolt at some point... if a longer bolt can reach into the good threads it should be OK... even if have to use a 'bottom end tap' to put some threads in deeper... just make sure the longer bolt won't bottom out in the hole before tightening...
I think there should be enough threads in it to get it mounted. And we actually are not to far apart in south of you in Tiffin. Thought that was in my profile I will fix that now.
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