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Old 12-16-2008, 06:01 PM
Old'n'young
 
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302 chevy engine mess

Ok So I hear running 283 power pack heads are not a good Idea on a 302 engine. Compression would be to high and other **** like leaded gas.

Now Im sure their power packs cause they have the rectangle with the point in the middle. the guy that gave them told me they were canadian and that was a canadian leaf, lol.

Now I know these heads were made to run on leaded gas, and I could have them changed around, valve seals and what not, but if I went threw all this money and trouble their still not going to be a good combo on this engine.

Would they be worth any money? And what would be an afordable set of heads to run on this block, I cant quite aford a set a double humps, but I still want this car to move.

and or what would the block and steel crank be worth?

would their be a way to bulid and insane engine with the combanation I have buy having these power pack heads rebuilt to polished ported out and vavles spring s all that to get a good high comp high horses high rpm engine?

Im glad you guys no your ****.

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Old 12-16-2008, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
and or what would the block and steel crank be worth?
Ayuh,...

As noted in your other 2 threads about this same motor,....

The Odds are Great, that you Don't have what you Think you have.....

Without the block code,...

What you have might be worth $100.00..... Maybe Less....
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Old 12-16-2008, 07:03 PM
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hmm,

Quote:
Originally Posted by bondo
Ayuh,...

As noted in your other 2 threads about this same motor,....

The Odds are Great, that you Don't have what you Think you have.....

Without the block code,...

What you have might be worth $100.00..... Maybe Less....
well do you think if I invested in some affordable alluminum heads that would work out ok? like some pro comps or someting?

I just got the orginal 30/30 cam and lifters that were installing next week to..i will keep the cam and lifters that came out of it, ill have to look sthem up and see what they are,

but I would love a recomandation for heads..
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Old 12-16-2008, 11:59 PM
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Naythan.... I have a suggestion and no disrespect to you, since you havn't produced any casting or suffix numbers why don't you take your block and heads to a machine shop and find out exactly what you really have. You called it a "Mess" and thats what you'll end up with if you just start throwing parts together.
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Old 12-17-2008, 02:26 PM
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hey man

Quote:
Originally Posted by 327NUT
Naythan.... I have a suggestion and no disrespect to you, since you havn't produced any casting or suffix numbers why don't you take your block and heads to a machine shop and find out exactly what you really have. You called it a "Mess" and thats what you'll end up with if you just start throwing parts together.
Heres the deal, the cars at my cousins school, in the shop class. I thought it was a 71 lt1 when i ran the old head numbers. he just pulled out the engine and has called me and told me that the numbers are for a 283 302 or 327, with a four inch bore wich limits it to two eninges a 302 or a 327, more than likely nothing to special but none the less a good engine. When it was running it was good for 7000 rpms, and would hold it there all ****ing day, which is how I cracked the orginal heads and after that I parked the car at my grandfathers and havent messed around with it a whole lot for the last year.

Now im going down this week to get the block numbers myself, and I let you know when i got them. Now eh told me when they pulled it all apart it was a 2 bolt so i knew it wasnt an lt1, more than likely a hipo 327, or maybe a decent 302. and since he told me it was a two bolt its not a dz.

All I want to know is what are a good recomandation of heads to run. the one that were on it were 2.02s and it ran awesome! @83 hi comp heads were a bad idea, I need some suggestions that are affordable.

Now i apperciate your time and would love to have the numbers myself right now so i can tell you but Ill get back to you on that this weekend. eitherway whats a good let of heads, any ideas?

I also know the previous owner put a cam and lifters in it and who else knows, and I just sent my cousin the 30/30 cam and orginal spec lifters. Not hydralics.

Sorry for my typing errors, im kinda in a rush, and i just got off work, ive been huffing argon all day.

thanks
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:41 PM
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You have your engine facts all jumbled up. The 283 was 3-7/8" bore. The 302, 327 and 350 are all 4" bore. A "DZ" block could be either 2 bolt or 4 bolt, they came either way. A "DZ" block is going to have a large journal crankshaft compared to pre 69 blocks.

Vince
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:42 PM
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Could still be a 283, bored 0.125".
Best heads for the money, L31 12558062 castings out of a boneyard.....
L31 applications:
1996-2003 Chevrolet Express/GMC Savana full-size vans
1996-1999 Chevrolet/GMC C/K full-size trucks
1996-1999 Chevrolet Suburban/GMC Suburban full-size long-wheelbase SUVs
1996-1999 Chevrolet Tahoe/GMC Yukon full-size short-wheelbase SUVs
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
Will bolt onto any Gen I SBC block. Use Vortec style intake manifold, carb of your choice. Get the rail rockers and the center bolt valve covers at the same time if you're gettin' the heads from the boneyard. Heads can be modified for additional lift with different springs/retainers, but if you're boltin' 'em on without changes, you're limited to valve lift of 0.450" or less. Most all cam grinders make cams with this lift in various durations and lobe separation angles.
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Old 12-17-2008, 04:24 PM
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i thought that the 302 in 68 had cast bottom end and a 2 bolt main. then maybe they realized it could be a high revving motor and decided to create a 4 bolt and put forged bottom end in it...thats just what i thought. 69-79 302 327 and the 350 blocks were 3970010 with the same bore different stroke and of course different suffix codes. in 68 the 302 had 4 inch bore as well. i had a 57 chevy pickup with a 283 and a set of 2.02 heads from factory. and a 64 chevy truck with double hump (maybe 1.94 easily mistaken for 2.02 heads) on a 327...i scrapped it and am kicking my self for it
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Old 12-17-2008, 05:32 PM
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All 302's since their inception have all had forged cranks and forged pistons. The 67-68 302's (MO block stamp) were all 2 bolt mains, the first year for a 4 bolt main block was 69 (DZ), but you cannot say since it is a 69 block that it is 4 bolt main, it could be a 2 bolt main.

The reason Chevy made the 302 was for SCCA racing. The rules stated that they had to offer to the general public the same engine/car that they were racing.

Vince
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Old 12-17-2008, 05:48 PM
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o thats a pretty cool piece of info, i didnt know that.
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Old 12-17-2008, 05:55 PM
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Your welcome

Vince
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Old 12-17-2008, 06:13 PM
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302 chevy

In 1967, Chevrolet was busy promoting their new pony car, the Camaro, and part of the promotional efforts included racing the Camaro in the SCCA Trans-Am series. In order to make the Camaro competitive, Chevrolet introduced the Z/28 option package which included among other things, a special 302 cubic inch small block. The engine size was a result of the SCCA's 305 cubic inch displacement limit in the Trans-Am series at the time.******************************


Moderators edit: For the entire text, see
http://www.holisticpage.com/camaro/camaros/302.htm

Last edited by powerrodsmike; 12-17-2008 at 11:50 PM. Reason: Copy-pasting. Please see: copy-pasting guidelines.
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Old 12-17-2008, 06:34 PM
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either way

what would a good recomandation be for heads. I have $800.00. should I go 2.02 1.60z? some aftermarket aluminum heads, or would the high reving 302 not be a good idea, maybe higher rpm block would warp the allminum? should I get a set of orginal 350 horse 300 horse what ever hump heads, should I just save up and get the orginal z 28 heads? This is my question.

another question, is their any way a harmonic balancer could be put on crooked and what would be the effects if so?

also admidst the heads cracking I put on a used water pump in a burger king parking lot from a 85 scottsdale 305, and it fit on and ran fine. Anything wrong with that running it temporarily? I shortly followed by putting on the power pack heads, rated at 12.5:1 or something?

The ****ty thing is admidst all this trouble I did run it hot cause the car did not have a temp gauge, and me being 18 at the time could not afford gauge or new heads etc. I was out on my own when all this miss fortune happend so youll have to excuse my jimmy rigging, I was just trying to get the car from minnepolis to galena ill so i could park it at my grandfathers..when i was going down i 35 with the power pack heads on it it wouldnt go above 50 mph with the pedal to the floor and definatly sounded far from health..plus when i got down there I pulled the valve cover to see a rocker sitting there and a busted rocker stud..a bent rod etc..

now the engine is on a stand with the cam and lifters pulled new seals and orginal 30/30 cam and lifters, they tell me the engine is in still great shape minus the heads wich i took to a machie shop to have re plained and a new stud put in, they said the valves were in good shape but were suken in from the unleaded gas and i dont feel like paying a 100s a head to have that problem fixed if Im not going to put those heads back on it..

so whats a good reconmondation? I need heads. I threw 2000 in it in the last month, new edelbrock performer rpm intake, chromed out edelbrock 750 carb, (not tuned to the engine yet, duh) vintage set of hooker headers (black) new cap rotor, new radiator, hoses, and a few other goodies. Now i need a set of heads, so whatcha got for ideas for me? And if you live close to the tri state area you got anything awesome stting in your garage you want to get rid of is what it boils down too. I have 800.

thanks Naythan
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Old 12-17-2008, 07:52 PM
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You are cut & pasting too much information not to give credit to the source.

Vince
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Old 12-17-2008, 08:01 PM
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ok i have a plan..you want a street engine for your ride correct?


get yourself the 2.02 heads cast or aluminum, weight is really the main difference and since its a street car why not cast iron? you blow a gasket while doing a whole shot off a light on broadway whats more likely to happen to the aluminum than cast iron? dont get me wrong im running aluminum heads GM performance parts on a street 454 and i like it.


use your edelbrock rpm intake and repaint the water pump from the truck to match the block. take some time and save some pennies call comp cams and tell them what you want out of the motor and what you already have and then have them send you a cam lifter kit with timing chain and gear.

thats just a simple way to get out of a head ache i guess


i hope your build goes well honestly
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