302 engines

Hi everybody, my names Nuedaddy and I'm new to the forum.
I have been working on this built 302 engine. I'm in the process of putting the heads together and putting them on the engine.
That being said, i was wondering if a 302 is a 302? i understand that a boss engine is different from a regular 302. Does the year of the engine have alot to do with the components. I.E. is a 69 302 the same as later model 302?
Also, will the engine number tell me the year the engine was built?


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1969-1970 Boss 302 used 1969 Canted valve heads and a special intake.

certin year blocks are better than others, most engines after '87 were roller blocks, so there is a diffrence

what do you mean canted heads.
and what should I look for?

Boss used a different head, they were wider cleveland style. the valves were NOT aligned in a straight line front to back but tilted and offset.. there are a lot of differences over the years. 5'0 s running a serpentine belt run the water pump opposite from crank direction , location of dip sticks, some in pan, some in front timing cover. later engines used different balance weight flywheel. The magazine adds from the early 80's said " THE BOSS IS BACK ". the engines were the 5.0 HO's not the 70's boss, 5.0 HO run a different cam and have the 351-marine firing order.

Unless you paid a pretty penny, you most likely have a 'standard' 302 SBF (small block Ford) engine, not a Boss 302.

The block code will tell you what you have, same thing for the head code. There's a lot of interchangeability between the years and even between the 302 and 289 engine.

From HERE:

"The quickest path to block identification is the casting number and date code found above the starter on the right-hand side of the block on 221/260/289/302, Boss 302 and 351W/351C engines."



There are a few things that you do not want to get mixed up, like the different reciprocating assembly balance factors and the two different firing orders used, to name two.

firing order is determined by the cam. you can change any SBF to the HO/351 firing order.

pre-'72 heads are "closed chamber" and have smaller combustion chambers than '72 and later "open chamber" heads. you have to be careful about your compression ratio. using open chamber heads with pistons designed for closed chamber will kill the compression ratio and performance. the opposite is a problem as well. using high compression pistons designed for open chamber heads with closed chamber heads will cause the compression ratio to sky rocket.

This thread should be moved out to the main engine forum, as it doesn't appear to be related to modern fuel injected engines, and will probably get more expose to those with knowledge of these older engines.

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Abracadabra...

ok. so I've got information regarding the hiccup of mine.

Block date code #9H14. As I read this, 1969August14
does that look right?

Block ID #C90E-6015C. Information that I have regarding
this # is.
Notes: Mustang Cobra & Pace Car
69-74 351W BLOCK ID # VIN CODE "H" SHORT BLOCK ONLY
C9OE- D1AE- D2AE-

So when I put this information together, it seems to me that I have a
351W built on August 14, 1969.
does that look right?

Please help me to confirm this information.
Also, IF in fact i do have a 351W, will any 351W parts work? or are they year specific?
I'm looking for lifter and push-rods.

Look at where the water enters the block in reference to the deck. If the deck is just above it then it's a 302. If the deck is well above it then it's a 351W.


351W


302

Thank you for the help and information.
next, if the block code is not right. Is there any reason I should believe the the manufacture year code (9H14) is correct?
after that, i must identify the cam so i can get the correct lifters and push-rods.

So does this mean it's not a 351M but instead a 302? It's not that the casting number isn't "right", it's just not a 100% indicator of the displacement in some cases.

In any event it should be a flat tappet (FT) block w/a 2-piece rear main seal going by the date code. If you have a used FT cam and you do not have the lifters in order so they can be returned to the same lobe they were broken in on, or have to use new lifters because the original lifters are not there, just bite the bullet and get a new cam and lifters- unless you have a roller cam, that is.

If the cam is new, it's hard to tell exactly what you have unless there are some ID stampings on the end. If there are no ID markings you can install the cam temporarily and mock up one cylinder w/lifters to take lift measurements from along w/a degree wheel on the crank to find the duration @ 0.050" and the intake/exhaust lobe centers and the LSA.

It's also hard to tell a hydraulic lifter cam from a solid cam. Roller cams are much easier to spot due to the rounder lobe profile compared to a FT cam, but telling a hydraulic roller from a solid roller can also be hard to do. You can cross that bridge when/if you get to it.

I believe the 302 would have used 7/16" head bolts, while the 351W would have used 1/2". Measure a bolt and see if it screws in tightly.

You also need to bring yourself up to speed concerning flat tappet cams....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/...tips_and_tricks

I'm pretty sure that the majority of builders on this forum will agree that flat tappets are just too iffy and will opt for a roller tappet camshaft and roller lifters for their personal builds.

Thanks everybody for the information and advice. There are some definite steps that I need to take in figuring out what I'm dealing with. At rate, I will for sure post findings and progress and the way.