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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2010, 07:02 AM
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I had an 89 355 TPI 5 speed (yes it was all a swap, car came with 305) T-Top car. T-Tops would only leak with pressure wash( I owned the car for 6 years) never in the rain.

I ported the intake base, runners, and plennum and threw in the lt4 hotcam with scorpion 1.6 roller rockers. She was a runner up to 5,500 then nothing. but torque for days. Never broke the rear because I would never launch really hard. But my current camaro with old heads made over 400 rwhp/rwtq and still has the 7.5 with 155k on it. But again it has never been launched hard with sticky tires. I am building a 9 inch now for that reason, so I can.

I agree about the 5 speed 100%. At the time I did the engine swap, tranny went to be rebuilt cause it had been popping out of first for about a year. I spent 1,600 using the strongest parts I could afford(tranny guy said 3x stronger than stock) and it was not worth the money. But if stock 305TBI made the tranny mess up, it will be killed with what you are aiming at.

Edit: forgot to add that I did install my own dual exhaust under car with 2.5" pipe, same as my camaro now except I have an x pipe on this one. It is doable with minimal ground clearance loss, but is not easy. I have seen one example of a thirdgen who routed the dual pipes in the place of the original y pipe and all the way out the back. Neat idea but he said it was a lot of work.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2010, 11:22 AM
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Let`s see, I had a G body. A 86 Olds cutlass supreme 2 door. I lowered it with drop spindles 2 inches front and progressive coil springs 2 inch drop rear. It would handle a curve like a corvette and it still had a ride as if it were on a cloud. A lot of power can be put into a G body with the correct pieces, replace the weak 7.5 rear and you can drop over 500 horses in the engine bay without having to do any type of frame reinforcement. I had a 79 Camaro Z28 with T tops, a 350 horse 350 twisted it. If you took the T top out you had to get somebody to lift the side of the car to get it back in.
hot rod magazine dropped a TPI 383 in a hard top Z28 way back in the 80`s, the car launched and busted the windshield because it`s a part of the overall structure, just like a corvette. Subframe cars without subframe connectors or roll cages aren`t as solid as the factories want us to believe they are. For a while now I haven`t looked at this thread, and to further answer on 305 Vortec heads I used a set on a customers build way back in 2003, I was impressed at the power they made, I did not say they were in comparison to TBI swirl port heads, I didn`t say either way if they were good or bad, I only said they don`t flow on L31 Vortec heads level and didn`t want anyone to get the idea they did just because they are called "vortec"
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2010, 01:51 PM
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I got a buddy with a 86 T/a hes got a 355 with a t-56 stock rear end on slicks and he goes out all the time with it to the track hasnt blown it yet and he has the same rear end i do nothing done to it. He putting atleast 350 to the ground
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Old 07-01-2010, 02:13 PM
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Some 3rd Gen F-cars got the Aussie diff w/the 9 bolt cover, is stronger than the "regular" diff. But they all are short-lived when good HP and traction meet at the same time and place.

"The (9-bolt "Australian") rear is offically rated @ 220 kW = 295 HP
@ 435 Nm = 320 lb/ft
It can support a GVW of 2740 kg = 6041 lbs."
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Old 07-01-2010, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
........For a while now I haven`t looked at this thread, and to further answer on 305 Vortec heads I used a set on a customers build way back in 2003, I was impressed at the power they made, I did not say they were in comparison to TBI swirl port heads, I didn`t say either way if they were good or bad, I only said they don`t flow on L31 Vortec heads level and didn`t want anyone to get the idea they did just because they are called "vortec"
Hey DV, I probably read too much into your reply but I see a lot of people blasting the L30 heads as total junk not even worth using on a 305 so I already had one foot on the soap box and the other off the ground.


You're right, the 305 Vortecs aren't on the same level as the L31's and a lot of people have paid good money for them thinking they were getting something they weren't because they were "Vortecs". On the other hand a lot of people have probably passed up a decent set of street/RV heads because they read on the Internet that the 305 Vortec heads were nothing more than TBI swirl ports with the Vortec manifold pattern which they aren't. A lot of good cores have probably gone to the smelter because people didn't take the time to investigate them for themselves. That's where mine were headed before I got bored one day and started looking them over.

One of the guys over at ChevyTalk bought a set, thinking they were the same as L31's, for his 283 powered Impala. He was tickled to death with the improvement in power and mileage over the old Power Pak heads until somebody told him he didn't have "true" Vortecs. Then he was upset thinking he had screwed up but aAfter a couple posts he got over his disappointment as he realized the L30's had delivered everything he was expecting except the loss in compression he had anticipated.
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Old 07-01-2010, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Silverback
$500 for an LT1 intake off of a b-body? the last b-body LT1 that I got I paid $100 for the whole thing, throttle body to exhaust manifolds...
Oh, no. sorry for being confusing. "take-out" not "intake". complete engine and transmission. I got t/b to oil pan, accessories to tailshaft. An added suprise when i tore it down, there where reman tags all over and the engine was almost bran-new inside. no sludge, no real wear, nothing.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2010, 08:33 PM
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DV is absolutley correct. If running any unibody car with anything over stock(and in some cases stock), subframe connectors are a must. Before I built the 383 and all I did was a cam swap, this camaro would twist the back of the car when it hooked up. I made and welded in some subframe connectors, problem solved. Even today. Helped with straight line launch too since the car isn't twisting near as much(can't feel it anymore).

Should be one of the first mods done before too much damage is done.
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Old 07-02-2010, 03:23 PM
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After a few beers, I had an idea. has anybody ever ran a perimeter frame on a 3rd gen? I'm thinking about hacking off everything forward of the firewall, building a frame, and fitting it to the car all the way back to the rear end and eliminating all original suspension ties to the unibody. this would also leave me room to design a new front suspension, and ample room for the engine bay. any thoughts?
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Old 07-02-2010, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cusz28
After a few beers, I had an idea. has anybody ever ran a perimeter frame on a 3rd gen? I'm thinking about hacking off everything forward of the firewall, building a frame, and fitting it to the car all the way back to the rear end and eliminating all original suspension ties to the unibody. this would also leave me room to design a new front suspension, and ample room for the engine bay. any thoughts?
Might as well go Pro Street with a full tube frame. I know Pro Street is passe now but it still works on those cars.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2010, 09:21 PM
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Hippie is right. going to all that trouble to build a perimeter frame, go tube chassis. building a chassis is a difficult task. I have seen third gens with them. But for the most part a good set of subframe will do what you need it to. I have seen several 3rd/4th gen f bodies in the low 9's(even a couple 8's) with subframe connectors. A whole lot less expensive then building an entire chassis, and easier to install.
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Old 07-02-2010, 10:16 PM
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very true. I know subframe connectors would work just fine. It was a just an idea my buddies and I came up with while tipping a few back. It's one of those, "You know it's dumb and crazy, but you just have to ask", questions.
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Old 07-02-2010, 11:25 PM
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Once you start to get fast, the NHRA tracks see to it that you'll stiffen things up- like it or not!

From the NHRA rules:

A roll bar is required in any convertible running 13.49 seconds or quicker in the quarter mile, and in other cars beginning at 11.49. The roll bar is accepted in vehicles running as quick as 10.00 second e.t., provided the stock firewall and floorboard is intact, other than for installation of wheel tubs.

If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. A full roll cage is required in any vehicle running 9.99 seconds or quicker, and any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.).
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Old 07-03-2010, 07:01 AM
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That's true but I say cross that bridge when you get there. Seeing as how the OP is talking about an N/A 305 setup at this time, I doubt the qualifications that need a full cage will be met.

I think it would be very though to meet 11.49. If you turn the car 90% track and shave as much weight as possible if possible (2,900-3,000lbs with you), great suspension setup, and max out that lil mouse (most I have read about is 460 fly wheel hp N/A but that was a big bucks build) you would just get there.

But probably wouldn't be much fun on the street. But would be fast.
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