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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2007, 01:17 AM
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Hey any luck yet? Hope you get this thing running good soon!
I kind of agree with these guys to a point, but you dont always have to worry so much about cfms on a carb. You do have the oppertunity to reduce the jet sizes and the metering rod changes. save some cash flow. had a 750 cfm edelbrock on a 83 blazer, weind 8004 intake, msd ignition, hooker headers;believe it or not 273 gears from the factory. 8" lift 33" tires. had a 4" but changed it. Now a 750 Rochester with dana 60s front and rear.

Your car sonds like a 454 my friend had. it was pretty built with a lunati bracket master II cam. he didnt want to put a stall in it. always died when he put it in gear or nearly died. plese post and let us know how the 600 works.
tom

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2007, 01:09 AM
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Fbird88, Ive taken notes on your post and put them in my wallet for tommorrow what you said makes alot of sense.

I may have a vacuum leak still. But I did a pretty extensive carb cleaner spray around the manifold, heads, and base of carburator while watching the vacuum gauge and listening, with no noticable difference. I could always miss something though. I've also put my hand over the carb inlet without a possitive change. Maybe I was imagining things but I thought that I noticed the idle sounding worse (more boggy, like it was struggling to get more air in the A/F mixture and putting my hand over it was suffocating it more), but maybe thats just me bein' crazy.

I havent yet grounded to the firewall and I'm doing that tommorrow. After reading about electricity, that may solve some other issues that I have with wiring too. Its been another important thing to get around to.
I also just borrowed a volt gauge thingy from my dad. Ill check the voltage to the distributor tommorrow as well.

I think Im going to try a set of jets for seven bucks or so before I go and buy a whole new Carb. If that doesnt do it, I think I know which one I'll be gettin' and from where.

Thanks guys!
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Old 11-04-2007, 01:13 AM
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oh, and on the timing thing. I may have this wrong but... I took the timing tab from my old timing plate (just cut it off with a grinder). Then I tak welded it onto the new timing plate. I made sure that I have TDC with a piston stop. Then I marked the balancer to line up with the zero on that timing tab. Im not using the indented line that is on the damper, I just painted my own line and welded the Tab to match up with it.
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Old 11-04-2007, 02:02 AM
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skipped timing chain

new double roller timing set +50$ not including torque wrench

how's she coming ?
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Old 11-04-2007, 03:49 AM
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I finally watched your first video, sorry for the stupid plugged exhaust post.

When I got my Elky last year, it suffered from almost exactly the same symptoms. And it had a hack's (well... a worse hack than me) half finished work.

First I replaced the 3 different sets of plugs wires, replaced plugs, corrected the crossed up firing order, and new cap, rotor, and coil. And got the beasty timed (by ear), the balancer had slipped by at least 90deg. The thing still idled like crap, but it idled... finally.

Tried to rebuild the QJet with the nifty bent metering rods. Got a different QJet (for free)(I now have 5... yes 5). That worked better, but now it died when putting it in gear. Found vac leaks, replaced ALL vacuum lines (these things ar 28yrs old). Sped up the Idle, it didn't die anymore, but idled too high.

Drove it like that for about a week, and ran across a 600cfm carb and a performer (non RPM) intake. put those on and it RAN! Just like new. It's a little 305, and it's still a tad on the rich side, but it works.

That's just my experience tho, yes mine still has assloads of blowby out the breather, but oh well. And when you get it running, I highly suggest you follow others' advice and get gears. I put 3.73's in mine. It will give you the pep you're looking for. 70mph is running at 3500 +- rpm with a 350TH, so it won't set any land-speed records, but it spanks the kids with the fart-pipe cars! (and does nice donuts)

Just my 2 cents
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2007, 04:52 AM
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Wow you've been busy
Looks good that color,going by the video its running a lot better.By the sound of it ,still lazy,needs a tad more advance.BUT don't touch it cause I said this....I might be wrong...wrong tab,balancer
The main reason I mentioned carb was to just "try" another one to see the difference in running.I didn;t mean to buy it.On your 750 you mentioned the rods changed,the float level you changed.You've played with too many things in there,and if not set correctly well guess what.
Glad to see your getting it done
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Old 11-04-2007, 07:04 AM
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It's a bit hard to tell from the video, but the sound of the engine doesn't match the tach reading, sounds like it's idling at less than the 12-1500 rpm the tach is reading. Are you sure you have the tach 4-6-8 cylinder setting correct??

I'd suggest you find a buddy that knows a bit more about setting timing/carb, before you just jump on a new carb. There is a balance point in the settings of the throttle plates, mixture screws and timing that can be tricky to find. Unless you have a pretty good idea of what you doing you may never find that balance, it takes experience. Alot of carbs get throw away and alot of money gets spent needlessly when people don't know what they're doing, and it's really hard to help without being there.

Keep at it, but don't be afraid to ask for help.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2007, 09:50 AM
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You have good point td
One thing for sure,
If I owned a business in California I'd hunt that kid up and hire him 'cause he ain't afraid to 'dig in'.
Only sometime your diggin' in wrong spot....haha
yer doin' a fine job bud(Matthew) have a good day

Last edited by KRUZR; 11-04-2007 at 09:59 AM.
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Old 11-04-2007, 04:01 PM
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Just curiosity but, what kind of exhaust do you have on that thing. Pretty freakin loud.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2007, 06:51 PM
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Its just straight headers right now. I have delta 40 series under the car but they arednt bolted to the headers yet. I cant do it yet

So today I went down there bright and early. After running the engine for about ten minutes she ran out of fuel. Then I noticed a significant oil leak toward the rear of the engine. I did some poking around with a flashlight and mirror and found out where the leak has been coming from. Guess........the drivers side head. I think that this explains the symptoms of a vacuum leak!

I began to drain the radiator fluid AGAIN, and slowly taking parts off. It was a crazy morning to say the least and too much to handle on a sunday. I figured if God takes the day, I might as well too. I have a lot of work ahead of me. Im hoping its just a head gasket. I'll also replace the manifold gaskets.

I dont really need to get this car out of that storage unit. I cant afford new gaskets, my bills, and $220 for rent at the unit. Hey, Ive been doing this same thing for the past few months, whats another week or two. Ive gotten it done this far, no stopping me now ha ha ha

any thoughts? am I crazy or would this actually be the cause of the elky's symptoms?
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2007, 07:14 PM
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What parts are you taking off???
A head gasket doesnt leak oil.It leaks water or glycol fluids.
A valve cover gasket leaks oil.only 4 bolts.
Is it leaking oil out of rear of intake manifold and seeping down ?
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2007, 07:20 PM
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i see all of this talk about a 750cfm QJet being too big for a 305. wait, what 4bbl carb did GM install on all their 305s from the factory ? Yes, a 750cfm QJet. also, with the way the QJet was produced, with secondaries open, it only netted a little less than 600cfm total.

dont forget, the QJet is an air dam carb, it will only flow what is needed, nothing more nothing less.

lets take my engine for example:

305 bored .040" over making 312ci
dish top pistons
Edelbrock Performer intake with EGR
750 QJet
port matched 601 heads
Lunati Bracket Master II 00016LK cam (.458/.458 lift, 218/218 duration)
Dynomax blackjack headers with 1 5/8" primaries to 3" collectors and dual exhaust with turbo mufflers
2.29 rear gear

ok, now im getting almost 16MPG in the city and 25MPG on the highway with my "big" carb. granted, the rear gear helps the mileage, but still, isnt that impressive for an SBC that is nearly 30 years old ? oh, and yeah, its still putting out 210hp to the wheels.

1970Chevy, ive given you this advice already but apparently it falls on deaf ears.
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Old 11-04-2007, 07:23 PM
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I think your oil leak is a valve cover or the rear of the intake . Check it better before pulling the heads . Also try adjusting the valves on that engine . It may idle real good when your done . That engine sounds mild like a stock cam . Also the next time you pull the plugs do a compression test . You may have a low reading on one of the cylinders . I had a 305 that ran like that it had a bad valve spring . A compression test will tell you that . Dont let that engine get you down . You will fix it .
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2007, 04:27 PM
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Thank goodness I have you guys and this site. I havent taken the heads off of an engine so I was a little excited to rip em' off. But I'm really glad that I dont have too. Its definately oil, and I wasnt positive that it was coming from the heads. I think its probably the intake manifold gasket that is leaking.

I recently took the manifold off and put it back on without replacing the gaskets. Now I can do it right (shouldve done it the first time ). Im on a time crunch to get the car out of the unit and on the street within the next two weeks. I just want her running so I dont need to pay for such a huge storage unit. I'll get a smaller one and store the accessories, carpet kit, chrome etc. in that. I also have a few ideas for turning a smaller unit into a "workshop" that I can run a small ebay side business from.

Fbird88, the car has always been really rough and boggy off the line. Its never been this bad and I havent noticed that much oil from the manifold gasket as well as had this bad of an idle since I put the manifold and carb. back on. This time I'm obviously replacing the gaskets and Im going to run a bead of sealant along the front a rear of the manifold instead of using the rubber gaskets that have been on their (which is where the leak SEEMS to be comming from)

Thanks for all of the advice and words of encouragement. It helps more than y'all know (no we dont usually say y'all in Southern California but it seemed appropriate ) Have a wonderful week everybody!
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2007, 06:47 PM
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305 sbc good idle, Dies when in gear

for STOCK to MILD engines i used a safe bet rule(rules meant to be broken though) double the CI equals carb size...305 x 2 = around 600
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