318 crank wont turn past a certain point by hand - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:20 PM
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318 crank wont turn past a certain point by hand

I am resealing my old leaky chrysler 318 (1975). it was running 2 months ago when I parked it and put it up on jack stands to install the felpro gasket set. I did the valve covers, then took the front of the engine apart and took off the oil pan. I installed a new rear main seal, then new oil pump and reused the pickup tube. I positioned the oil pickup in the same position it was in before. Then I put a new pan gasket on the oil pan and put it back on the bottom of the engine. Then I replaced the timing chain and sprockets with a comp cams magnum double roller chain and sprocket set. I put a new front main seal in the timing cover and a new cover gasket, then put it back on the engine. I Installed the mechanical fuel pump back into the side of the timing cover. Then the water pump. I put the damper back on with an installer tool, then bolted the crank pulley onto the damper. Finally, I put the harmonic damper bolt back on and torqued to 135 ft/lbs. As I did this the the crank rotated but then stopped and wouldnt budge. I torqued it down then tried to turn the crank with a normal ratchet.. wouldnt budge. So, I tried turning it the other way (counter clockwise) and it turned just fine until I turned it a full 360 degrees and it stopped again, in the same place it hit before. I've now turned the crank back and forth 360 degrees each time and the crank just keeps jamming up in the same spot.

I dont know whats happening. My best guess is that I may have positioned the oil pickup tube just a little wonky and one of the crank counterweights is hitting it, so I can turn the crank just until it hits then reverse and the same thing happens. Or maybe my fuel pump arm was installed wrong? The damper doesnt look like its binding up on the timing cover, and I didnt remove the camshaft retainer plate when I had the timing chain off, so I dont know what the problem is. I hope its not the oil pickup tube... I spent a lot of time cleaning and prepping the pan and block surface for the new gaskets and rtv sealent and I dont want to have to take the pan off and mess up my work.

Any suggestions
?
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:55 PM
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take out the fuel pump,remove pump rod and see if you made a mistake there,,,,Its all visual now,
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:08 PM
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Check valve to piston clearance. You may have gotten valve timing wrong when changing the timing set.
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:34 PM
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Pull all the spark plugs and make sure, coolant, fuel, oil or whatever didn't leak into the cylinders.
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:01 PM
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Thats a good theory but Its not valve to piston clearance, I had the new chain and sprockets aligned perfectly. And the sound it makes when hitting the obstruction is not the sound of a valve clinking against a piston. Took the fuel pump out, but that wasn't it either
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:45 PM
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no need to take out spark plugs yet, all resistance from compression strokes then exhaust release felt normal. no grinding or unusual noise
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:52 PM
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No obstruction on damper or pulleys. Took pan off.. counterweight was binding on new oil pump. removed it and compared to old pump. The old pump had been ground down to clear the counterweights.. took casting number off of crank, turns out its a 340 crank, and the oil pump was ground down for clearance.

this is the new pump


old pump




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Old 06-05-2013, 12:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam83 View Post
Thats a good theory but Its not valve to piston clearance, I had the new chain and sprockets aligned perfectly. And the sound it makes when hitting the obstruction is not the sound of a valve clinking against a piston. Took the fuel pump out, but that wasn't it either
The cam rotates half speed to the crank so the fuel pump's not it but you already checked it anyway.

The oil pu could be it- and it's hard to get to- so that (for me) would mean that is it.

Edit- I see you found it.
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Old 06-05-2013, 07:38 AM
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Thats a good find Adam. What is that hole in the old pump?
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Old 06-05-2013, 03:34 PM
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I don't know what the hole is yet. Maybe it was already in the pump casing and was exposed by the grinding?
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Old 06-06-2013, 06:28 AM
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Try a standard 340 pump not a high volume ,should have clearance,
seems the hole would cause lower oil pressure. possible when ground for clearance it was thin and small metal chip popped off leaving hole, just a thought.
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:10 AM
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I checked the part number for a 340 oil pump.. same number, melling m72.
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:13 AM
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I'll probably just have to ground down my new pump like the old one
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