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Old 04-28-2006, 01:57 PM
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318 cutting out hmmm, ballast resistor ?

hello all, i m working a small bug out of a 318 600 holley daily driver type. the car cuts out at WOT throttle, like the key was turned off. i pulled over and there is gas in the carb. egine will return to idle if you pick up your foot. it drove away just fine.

they had the ignition system replaced with a msd 6a complete with coil,distributor,and unit. when replaced they hooked it directly to a bat+ source. the ballast resistor was left out thinking they didnt need it anymore. maybe thats true , im not sure at this point. the original system was externally regulated old mopar, and had a resistor. as rpm s build can the voltage output of the alternator change to cause the MSD system to cut out ? what does the resistor do exactly ? feeling stoopid but im stumped. voltage is 12.6-13.8 depending on the idle and location. coil tests fine, but has 12 volts ?

do you think im on the right track ?

318 9.0 , 19" vac mopar purple cam 4452782 .429/.444
600 4 barrel vac sec
msd 6al 16deg inital 34 total @ 2400

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Old 04-28-2006, 02:07 PM
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All a ballast resistor is for is so that you crank or start your engine on 12 volts after it is started the starter solenoind switches it through the ballast resistor to run your ignition on 6 volts. With the new MSD system I do not think you need a ballast resistor as I believe that sytem works on 12 volts all the time. I do not think your disconected ballast resistor is the problem. Check all of your connections on your ignition system as well as your grounds.
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Old 04-28-2006, 04:52 PM
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Doc here,

You need to check your Data sheets for the 6AL system as to If a Ballast is required on your set up..Some do require it some don't.

I don't think that is your problem though..

The first thing I would look for is bad grounds on the box, coil body, and Engine block..insure all your grounds are properly bonded with a star washer, and lock washer and paint and dirt burnished off at the ground points.

If your engine does not have a ground buss system and a cable to the frame and battery, you need to address that. (It sits on rubber mounts)

If the grounds are all good, check your power and signal wires for loose fitting connections and ill fitting pins, and bad wire connections.

If you still have the problem, and your coil has been checked as good..(less than an ohm but more than 000 on the primary, and 10 to 11K ohms on the secondary) I would suspect the coil may be breaking down under full load..(internal arc over on the windings, from age or poor QC on a new on..you need an oscilloscope to check that..) Get a KNOWN good coil, and substitute it for a test.

If that passes, replace the inspect the inside of the dizzy for any secondary wire that may hit ground during an advance / retard cycle. If thats clear, You may have to consider warranty work on the system..

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