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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2008, 10:15 PM
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If you do not have battery voltage to the ballast check the through firewall connector for corrosion or melted connections.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2008, 10:26 PM
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Disconnect the wire from the ballast resistor and ohm it. The coil side should be .5-.6 ohms, the control module side should be 4.75-5.75 ohms.

The air gap in the distributor between the reluctor and pick-up needs to be set at .006 with a brass feeler gauge.

Last edited by carsavvycook; 05-06-2008 at 10:40 PM. Reason: additional wording
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Old 05-06-2008, 11:13 PM
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Heres a good read on Chryslers that just might help.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml
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Old 05-07-2008, 05:48 PM
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I went over to help Matt work on it. We tested the voltage to the coil, got 9 volts. I wanted to see what we got for voltage when we cranked it, so I cranked it over, and it sputtered and finally started, although it ran like crap.

I'm thinking now it may have been flooded yesterday when we fixed that disconnected wire...

Of course, it still runs like crap, and dies.
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Old 05-07-2008, 05:55 PM
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Is the spark your getting blue in color? Check the air gap between the reluctor and pick-up inside of the distributor. It's just like adjusting points, but not necessary during the average tune up. It will still effect the ignition timing though.
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Old 05-07-2008, 06:56 PM
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The spark was blue, yes. I can take a look at the reluctor, what would I be looking for as a gap?
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Old 05-07-2008, 07:24 PM
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The reluctor has 8 points and is located on the distributor shaft. They line up with the pick-up, which has a magnetic pole in the center. This works the same way as the older points system, and need adjustments from time to time. The pick-up is what you adjust just like the older points.

The breaker plate can wear down over time requiring adjustment. Your vehicle is set at .006 with a non metallic gauge, such as a brass feelers gauge.

This adjustment will in fact change the initial timing by itself without ever moving the distributor. Just like the older points and condenser set up.

With the up grade from points to electronic ignition they changed the wording from point gap, to air gap.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2008, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carsavvycook
Is the spark your getting blue in color? Check the air gap between the reluctor and pick-up inside of the distributor. It's just like adjusting points, but not necessary during the average tune up. It will still effect the ignition timing though.
Ideally, do this with a brass feeler gauge. The pull (feel) won't be affected by the magnetism using a brass gauge. The lean burn system was fecal matter, aka sh**. It was common practice to replace the distributor with a pre-lean burn electronic distributor or an even earlier points one. Don't attempt to restore the lean burn system, it's an exercise in futility. This wasn't one of Chrysler's triumphs of engineering, to put it mildly.
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Old 05-07-2008, 09:24 PM
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If I remember right it did not last as long as the Ford Edsel was produced.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2008, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Notorious
Ideally, do this with a brass feeler gauge. The pull (feel) won't be affected by the magnetism using a brass gauge. The lean burn system was fecal matter, aka sh**. It was common practice to replace the distributor with a pre-lean burn electronic distributor or an even earlier points one. Don't attempt to restore the lean burn system, it's an exercise in futility. This wasn't one of Chrysler's triumphs of engineering, to put it mildly.
That's part of the problem, it has been bypassed.
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Old 05-08-2008, 08:35 AM
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Timing chain

You have fuel, you have spark (even if it is weak you should get some chugging) I'm going to say the timing chain is stretched beyond usefulness.

The factory chain on that era small block mopar leaves much to be desired. Check to see how sloppy it is by bringing the motor up to top dead centre on #1 (your 0 timing mark on the balancer). Now take the distributor cap off adn see if the rotor is near the #1 plug wire (could be 180 degrees out, which is okay as well). If the rotor is not where is should be, you have a problem - either the chain has jumped a tooth or two or it is badly stretched. Now watch as you turn the motor in the opposite direction until you see the rotor start to move. This is usually better done with two people. Stop turning the crank when the rotor just budges. That is how much slop is in the chain. A few degrees is okay on an old motor, but more than that and you will have problems.

If the chain has jumped, as long as it wasn't at high speed, you will be able to change it and be on your way (check the ignition timing of course). If it jumped at high speed, you probably have some bent valves (small Mopars are "Crash" engines), which means pulling the heads.

Not a terribly difficult job to change the chain, but it takes time. Put a double roller on it while you are in there.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2008, 07:54 PM
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www.dippy.org/forum2

join us.. they can help you with anything dippy!
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