'32 Ford F/G Closed Cab P/U Steering Change Over? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 11-21-2007, 06:05 AM
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'32 Ford F/G Closed Cab P/U Steering Change Over?

Starting a new project low budget. I bought a complete '32 Ford Closed Cab kit less hood, shroud and bed sides for $850. And a complete rolling '89 Ranger chassie w/2.3 & 4 speed, $100. I framed the inside cab w/1.5" boxed tubing. getting ready to set the cab on the frame, BUT, the twin I Beam set up on the frame prevents me from mounting the fenders. I want to keep the 2.3 inplace. Can I remove & lower the top spring tower and cut 3 coils on the springs to keep the I Beam Suspention or do I goto the Salvage Yard an pop a sub frame for $60? What the easiest to adapt to the Ranger Frame, Mustang II, Camaro or what else? Oh and keep in mind I'm doing this myself a lowly Viet Nam Vet at 56. And thanks for listening!!! And Hello hotrodders.com I'm new here...
Bill in Middle River Md.
wathizname@webtv.net

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Old 11-21-2007, 03:26 PM
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'32 ford F/G closed cab P/U steering change over

Guess I'm a little late but I would have built a frame before using the Ranger chassis. At this point about all you can do is head out to the junk yard with a tape and start measuring to see what options you have. Perhaps you haven't past the point of no return yet. A new frame might be something to think about. Sounds like you have the drive train and what ever else you can salvage from the Ranger chassis. Some tubing and a front suspension and your all set. Just my opinion.

Youngster
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Old 11-21-2007, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wathizname
Starting a new project low budget. I bought a complete '32 Ford Closed Cab kit less hood, shroud and bed sides

As a long time 32 Ford owner and a Moderator here @ Hotrodders.com ... I would like to WELCOME you here ...

For the original 32 Ford fenders to fit up correctly ... a 32 Ford frame is required.



See the reveal on the side of the frame ... that's where the fenders fit ...

A question please ... does your firewall unbolt ? Like the one shown below ... or is it made into the cab.



Here is a friend of mines 32 Ford pickup ...

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Old 11-21-2007, 07:40 PM
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'32 ford F/G closed cab P/U steering change over

You know what Deuce...I knew the fenders bolted to the frame on a '32. What was I thinkin'? Guess I've been working on fenderless cars too long. Sorry I didn't mean to mislead anyone. Then again Deuce pickups look really good built as hi-boys. Not all of them come out as cool as your friends. Now that's cool!

Youngster
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Old 11-21-2007, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wathizname
Starting a new project low budget. I bought a complete '32 Ford Closed Cab kit less hood, shroud and bed sides for $850.
Just curious -- who manufactures a '32 closed cab pickup?

Bob
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Old 11-21-2007, 09:35 PM
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HELP! As for My "Deuce"

The fire wall is in the cab from the mold... No clues as to who made the P/U Kit, but, more than likely it's at least 10 years old so says the previous owner... As for the Frame and mounting the fenders I believe I can make fender brackets and mold them close to the rails. It is a Hot Rod any how. I did see that TCI has coil spring caps or I might reduce the springs by 3 raps and cut down the original towers by 4" which might keep my geometry for the twin I Beams. What do You all think? Where can I dump a few pics so you all can see that I'm doing???
Bill
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Old 11-22-2007, 12:55 AM
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Many rodders are put off by the use ill-fitting later-model frames, enticing tho it seems to some folks.

Your truck will be worth more money if you get a '32 frame or build from steel tubing a Model A frame or an approximation of a '32 frame.

Might even enhance your satisfaction with the project, too.

You can get free frame plans off the 'web at Westcott's site....
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Old 11-22-2007, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Where can I dump a few pics so you all can see that I'm doing???
You can put up your pics right here on this site by clicking on "photo gallery".

I'd like to see the cab you found
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Old 11-22-2007, 09:40 AM
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Doing a 32 PU on a 34 frame, kicked up in the rear to go low with a 32 front cross member flush welded with the top of the front rails, gives the truck another 1in lower in the front.
If you are looking for ideas I have some shots of the project in my photo album. Getting the body and rest of the sheet metal slicked out for the color, then the fun starts of the build .
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Old 11-23-2007, 09:32 AM
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To many pics, here's the web page addy.

http://www.geocities.com/wathizname/...rdPickup1.html
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Old 11-23-2007, 03:43 PM
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'32 ford F/G closed cab P/U steering change over

Sooner or later some one needs to tell you that you don't have a '32. It's a '30 - '31 cab. I can see from the pictures that you are already pretty committed to this project. You are going to have a rough time trying to find a shaky leg front end for this truck. The problem is going to be they all are going to want to poke thru the front fenders. By cutting the coils the way you are talking about, you won't have much of a spring rate left. Bottoming out is going to be a reoccurring event. Since your fenders are already cut, you might go ahead and mount everything up and them fab some 'glass blisters to cover the spring towers. I'm afraid that's just the nature of the beast when you get into this kind of a frame swap. For the bed I would go with a '32 type because the sides go straight down instead of rolling under as with a model A. It would be much easier to hide the frame this way.

keep us posted on your progress, Youngster.
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Old 11-23-2007, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Youngster
Sooner or later some one needs to tell you that you don't have a '32.




I was waiting for someone other than myself to tell you this ... Sadly, a lot of sellers want to increase the perceived value of what they are selling and call their stuff ... Deuce or 1932 Ford.

Some do it out of greed and some out of ignorance . I do not know which in the case of the seller of your project.

I suggest you buy a after market Model A frame ... or fabricate one from box tubing.



Then you could adapt the rear end you already have easily ... and then put a straight axle suspension under the front so all you Model A body pieces will fit ... or at least come a lot closer to fitting.



This is the type suspension MOST Model A's use ... and then the fenders fit without all the hate and discontent.



This Model A pickup ... sits right ... see out the tires tuck up under the fenders and there is not a large gap of space between the top of the tire and the bottom of the fender. Model A's also have a piece that tucks under the body that goes down the the running boards and covers the frame rails.


You can go here ... http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ge=1&reverse=1 and see a small photo journal on the build of my current 32 Ford project.

The quality of your work shows me you are dedicated and can make this project a reality ... you just need a better foundation to build on.



Deuce Moderator
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Old 11-23-2007, 11:56 PM
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Trying to do the right thing...

In the beginning, the add in the paper said For Sale 1932 Ford Closed Cab P/U. So, I took it for what it was. As I looked at the fenders they had on the Front & Rear 32 Ford. Stamped on the inner edges. As for the body no Documentation. The guy said he bought it off some one years ago and told him it was a 32. Then he says the whoever made it, made 6 them broke up the mold due to no sales. So me not being savvy to the old stuff we may have gone out on a limb a little. Oh and another thing the seller tells me that the body is adaptable to a Ranger/ S-10 frame. Might be what you say 30 or 31. Nothing would please us better. We {the wife & I} have limited funds 30/31 parts are cheaper. But look tell me what makes this truck a 30/31? I know I can get the Truck on the road it just requires a lot of thinking. Now as far as the frame and the value, nothing that I do can't be undone. Cab mounts can be moved brackets and holes can be repaired. As you could see from the rear of the cab on my web page. Glass or metal makes little difference I can fix it. I'm a true old school restorer done it all my life. My thing was to get tips for all the curves I got with little truck. Don't get me wrong I really appreciate all the help and criticism. It keeps me closer to the ground. Please keep me advised of all the tips to better this project, I need all the help I can get... Thx, Bill
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Old 11-24-2007, 01:07 AM
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I have to agree with Deuce. The truck will turn out a lot better if you put it on a model A style frame.

It looks like you can handle a welder so it wouldn't be that hard for you to build your own frame. You can still run the Ranger engine, trans and rear end.

As someone said. Wescot has the dimensions for the model A frame or an original one might be found for a friendly price especially if someone was pulling it out to swap in a custom frame. You would still have to box it and do the normal hot rod things but it wouldn't break the bank and the truck would turn out a lot nicer.
At todays prices it would take about 100.00 worth of rectangular tubing to build a frame plus one of the dropped Model A front cross members and the center cross member.
You could even extend the rear rails a bit and use the rear leaf springs by keeping the Model A measurements right untill you reach the back of the cab and then making a few mods to to use the leaf springs.
By doing a bit of hunting you can probably come up with a front suspension that is correct for the A and not all that expensive. Again you have to find someone who is pulling one out and will part with it for a reasonable price.
Most of us built our first rods in just that manor.

We don't want to sound negative or rain on your parade but we do want to see you come up with something that will look right and be pretty close to right.
Snoop through the journals and you should see some 30/31 Model A projects that may spread some light on what we are saying.
Deuces journals and photos are always great to show you how to really do it right but may be a bit out of the budget. They sure get the brain wheels turning though.
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Old 11-24-2007, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
tell me what makes this truck a 30/31?
Several things; The way the firewall is bulged out is a giveaway to it being a A. Also the top of the cowl sure looks like an A, plus the shape of the windshield & angled posts.

The fenders do look like 32, as well as the dash.

I don't think I have ever heard of a glass pickup of that age...I think it's pretty unique

I think you need to pick a style before going any further. If you go with 32 fenders, the frame horns would need a different shape compared to A front fenders. I am pretty sure "Deuce" said recently, that even a Mustang 2 front end won't clear the front fenders if the stock "anti-dive" angle of the top A-arms is used. So if you are trying for a style of build that will not look cobbled, I think you may need to consider a traditional I-beam or tube axle front end. I know that blows the budget, but late frame swaps are difficult to make them "nice looking".

I'm pretty sure I'd use the 32 fenders rather than switch to 30-31, and I'd use a 32 radiator shell. Part of the reason would be trying to salvage as much of your investment so far, plus not having to buy 4 more fenders. Maybe I'm wrong but I think the mixed years of parts would look fine. We don't need to make every rod look identical

There is one rod building company on the web that sells new cut-off front 32 rails, "when available", for $200 plus shipping. Then you could build the rest of the frame yourself.
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