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Old 02-17-2010, 06:39 PM
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3200 stall questions

i have been told with a 3200 stall that the vehicle wont move untill the engine wont move untill tacked up to 3200 i was wondering if this is true because im lookin in to buying a truck that has a stall and i really dont want to have to tack it up that much

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Old 02-17-2010, 07:05 PM
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No, that's not entirely true. If you stomp on it from a stopped position it should 'flash' to 3200 and then start moving (and probably start roasting the tires). But if you roll into the throttle like from a light it might rev up a little before moving (like maybe 1500 if that) but it will move. I drove an 82 C10 a little while ago that had a 383 and a 3500 stall TH350. It revved a little bit off from a stop but it was almost like stock. They just feel a little bit looser. I think it takes a 4000+ stall converter to really start revving up before moving from a stand still.
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Old 02-17-2010, 11:15 PM
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At idle the car will move forward and backward, just like a stock coverter. If you're very alert to it, you might feel some slippage, I have a 3200 stall and do not feel it.

Don't get me wrong, it is slipping and building heat, and you will need a cooler.
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Old 02-19-2010, 07:21 PM
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So I don't need to use the foot brake to get my car up to the stall point before launching it? stomping on the gas work ok? (engine is apart at mo for head/cam upgrade so can't try it) It feels it loads up the motor to much (doesn't freely rev to the stall point) if I use brakes. I guess it's because the motor is gutless lol. It's a B&M nitrous holeshot 2300-2500. Motor is stock low mileage 307 with rpm airgap and edelbrock 600 vac sec with hei and headers. I hope it will work better with the significant cam/head and recurve upgrade.

I noticed with mine I can feel it slipping a bit, especially when backing it out of the driveway (cold). But the trans is quite leaky and having the exact amount of oil in it makes a huge difference in how it seems to work.
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Old 02-19-2010, 08:31 PM
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Not sure what you mean. You need to get the motor up to say 3-500 rpm less than stall so you're in the power band, then hammer it to launch, so you do need to hole it back.

Just hammering it before you roll up to the stall it will flash when it hits stall rpm and hook up, but without a line lock or trans brake, you're going to be moving forward.
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