327

i have a 1968 327 and it dose not have a bolt hole for the harmonic balancer so how do u put it on and keep it from fallen off the crankshaft it was formed that way so im lost never seen one like it.


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For a 68 that is indeed rare. The early small blocks didn`t use a bolt, they relied solidly on press fits until they got wind of drag racers winding them up to 8000 rpm and the balancer flying off. By 68 as far as I know they were all drilled and tapped so yours maybe a earlier model. Anyways, you would have to have a machine shop do this for you as it would have to be perfectly straight drilled and tapped as well as the correct depth.

You wont have to have a machine shop do it. I had a 327 in my 55 chevy and changed the cam with the motor in the car. I got the balancer off and relized wow no bolt hole . I drilled it with a drill as straight as i could and tapped it out with threads and it worked great. So if you take the time and pay close attention its very easy.

The early engines used a press fit balancer, they work loose with time. Moroso sells the proper bolt 7/16s X 20 threads 2-1/4 inches long. There should already be a hole in the crank, tapping if with a proper sized tap will get you there.

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categ...p?catcode=23026

Bogie

I too had a small journal 327, 340 HP short block, aftermarket solid lifter cam and kit, fully ported/polished 461X heads, 300-25 Holley intake with a 750 DP, 4 into 1 upswept headers; all in a real short wheelbase FED. NO BALANCER BOLT, and the tech people questioned me on it; let me run the digger, but told me to "bolt it". This was late 70's/early 80's. So, I had a fixture that was actually part of a hub puller, installed the thing on the dampener, got a reverse rotation drill bit, and a reversable drill. Started the engine, stuck the drill bit in the fixture, turned on the drill, and drilled away with the engine turning one way while the drill bit went the other; worked pretty good. Enlarged the hole after, and tapped it, put a locktighted bolt in it. Was just fine. Now, the same engine would need an SFI balancer. It's the same engine for my 56' Sedan Delivery with an intake and camshaft change. Went 9.23 @ 146 in the digger. If the crank's out of the engine, then have it done by a machine shop, other wise, you can be creative if you have the room to do so. This is the first time I've ever mentioned this, even after all the prior threads with the same problem.

I remember a long time ago after putting together a very high rpm, hp, 350 that the last thing I was doing on the stand was going to put on the balancer. NO bolt hole at all, I was like wth. Anyway, I got the Moroso bolt, found out the right drill and tap size and drilled it with a hand drill, I used a cobalt bit and it went right in. Taped it and everything was fine. Just keep the drill as straight as possible.

You'll find the balancer goes back on a lot easier if before you install it, you heat it up by boiling it in a big pot of water on the kitchen stove for about 30-40 minutes. When you are all ready to install, use the lil womans kitchen oven mitts to pick up and handle the 200°F+ balancer and toss it on.

Heating up the balancer in water expands the precision press fit hole just enough so it goes on easy.