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#1
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327/350 borex stroke/specs
Hi everyone. i have a 67 327 in my 67 impala, and was wondering, i can;t seem to find an abundance of pistons for my 327, but lots for the 350. i was told that 350 and 327 both shared 4" bores, but the 350 was just stroked more. could i use 350 pistons in my 327? if i wanted to make my engine a 350 stroker, could i jusr drop a 350 rotating assembly in it? i know chevy change the main/rod bearing width, but when? thanks!!!
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#2
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www.mortec. com
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#3
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All small blocks(265,283,327) were small journal from 1955 through 1967 except the 350 which appeared in '67 as the first large journal, small block.
In 68 the 283 was no more, but the 307 appeared. From 68 on the small block was large journal. (later to be known as medium journal when the small block 400 came around, due to the 400's even larger journals) Therefore, you have a small journal 327, and ,since there naver was a small journal 350 crank, no, you can't just stick a 350 rotating assembly in and make it a 350. I wasn't aware that there was a shortage of 327 pistons. |
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#4
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Try these guys for parts...Flatlander Racing (515) 961-6109. I got my pistons and rings from them for my 327 (.030 331"). The pistons were Sealed Power hypereutectics with the coated skirts for $146 and the moly faced rings were $36.50. These prices were a few years ago but it was a great deal then, they also sell on ebay....just punch in "327 piston"
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#5
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They do have good prices & plenty of 327 pistons>>
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/trwchevy283_327.html http://www.flatlanderracing.com/pistons.html |
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#6
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yes there is a way to make that S/J 327 a 350 ? Competition Products sells a Scat Brand Crankshaft 3.500" Stroke S/J Bearing Size . You would have to use 350 Pistons . And I would have your Rods rebuilt with ARP 11/32" Bolts . That crankshaft is part#CPX7-283-3500-2 and it is not cheap $999.00
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#7
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By the time you buy that $999 crank and all the other stuff. You might want to think of buying a new 350 crate motor.
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#8
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Quote:
The voice of reason. Ain't it the truth! |
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#9
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You can line bore the 327 block from a small journal to a larger journal size.
By the the time you pay for boring it you might consider a 350 short block for the same price, and use the 327 heads, intake and exhaust manifold, oil pan and water pump, etc. You even use the cam and lifters in the 327 and put it in the 350 if the cam and lifters are in good shape. |
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#10
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Thank you all VERY much for your help. It is muchly appreciated and well used. Instead of the 350 rotating assembly, I'm buying these following parts from a friend tommorow ( 194 closed port heads, 581/581 cam, holley intake man, 700 cfm holley carb, hei distr and push rods) and ordering a engine rebuild kit to start off the build. later on perhaps a wieand 8-71 supercharger, but i don't want to ruin the hood, so I'm considering dual turbos. i've already bought a th350 trans to replace the 2 speed slush box, going locked 4.11 gearing in the 12 bolt, and thats just for starters. any suggestions?
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#11
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#12
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Yea no kidding Tech, but what the hell, I'll comment. Why do guy's come on here, ask everyone's opinion, get numerous reply's with good build info then TELL US what he's going to use. This guy obviously knows nothing about engine builds and now he's thinking about an 8-71 or dual turbo's, why waste everyone's time??
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#13
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Yeah I agree, "1.94 closed port heads" which ones are those again? And if he meant closed chamber then the dual turbos and blower should make for some really nice fireworks. If it even runs.
Also .581/.581 cam? with stock 1.94 heads I am sure. That should flow nice. Maybe use two of those 700cfm carbs on the 327, cause one 700cfm carb would not be enough for sure. Especially if you want to turn 12,000 RPM. Tell your buddy to keep his stuff, but you are on the right track with the stock rebuild kit |
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#14
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Quote:
i wasn't meaning to "waste everyone's time", and i was just stating what he told me they were. i don't know what the heads are, not do i know that cam, i was just transcripting what he said... Didn't mean to offend, and the nasty words aren't really appreciated. not everyone needs to be a walking dictionary of engine build blue prints in order to post and ask questions. but i do appreciate the advice, i do plan on using it. sorry for wasting time, Jake |
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#15
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Ok Jake....lets get back to your build, there has been so many guy's come on here that obviously know nothing about engines, ask a bunch of questions, and get numerous replies on which parts to use for a good running reliable engine that suits their stated application.
After a couple of days of the question/answers they come back and tell the forum that they have settled on something that is totally opposite of what has been suggested. The guys that have replied then ask themselves ...what in the hell did I answer this guy for??.....don't take it personally, it's just that we have seen this numerous times. An engine build is a combination of parts that will work together to succeed in maximizing the engines performance, whether its a tow truck or a top fuel dragster. The wrong combo = poor performance, reliability, street manners and even gas consumption. Now if you would like, lets start over, tell us your budget....which has a lot to do with it, your goals (be reasonable, no 8,000 rpm 500 hp 327 daily driver please) and we will try to help.........Dave |
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