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Old 08-03-2010, 11:13 PM
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327 or 350 for college student low cost build

Hello I have a 327 and a 350 i'm looking at building. The 327 has single camel hump heads which i believe are for higher compression and have small valves. I am building one of these engines for a blazer. I want good torque for 4x4 but I also want to be able to up and go in 2wd on the street. I want to build the engine fairly cheaply and i'm not looking to buy aluminum heads. I'm just thinking buying a rebuild kit from northern for 300-500 dollars and want to know what kind of cam would be best with flat top pistons and what i should look for in the flat tops. Im not sure if this is the kind of site for this question but this is a first time build and I just need some guidance. I know I wont get a lot for this price but im a college student and don't have a lot.

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Old 08-03-2010, 11:28 PM
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Build the 350, more cubes = more torque at lower rpm. For your budget just buy the regular engine rebuild kit but I would upgrade to hypereutectic pistons with the pin height in the stock location...not rebuilder pistons (tell them that) better bearings, moly rings and maybe a grade hotter cam. They will probably call it an "RV" cam, good bottom end torque. Also make sure the block is checked by a competant machinist to see if it's already been bored and/or if it will need to be bored to what size...then buy your engine kit.
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Old 08-04-2010, 01:05 PM
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Go with the 350 build best bang for the buck. 327 is higher compression and will have problems running on pump gas. 350 has good bottom end torque, great for a 4x4. Use a dual plane 4bbl intake with a Edelbrock carb easy to find. Agree with 327nut.
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Old 08-04-2010, 03:28 PM
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Check the bores in the 350 to see if they're within spec. Since you're trying to do a "budget" build (to me budget means trying to re-use as much as possible), depending on bore-wear (and bearing wear...or spun bearings if any), you might be able to get away with a ring/bearing job...which is just an overhaul...no pistions. Once you go to boring/pistons, the cost goes up. Check the 327 heads to see if the valves/guides are within spec. Most likely the 350 will have either flat-tops or dished pistons...the 327 heads will work good with that.

If the 350 needs to be bored, check the 327 bores to see if they're within spec. Keeping "budget" in mind, since you're trying to spend the least amount, check both engines to see which needs the least work. Probably best to use the 327 heads no matter which block you use. Not all 327's are high compression, but you'll find out what you have when you pull the heads from both engines.

Break both of them down...heads off/check bore specs...pull the main/rod caps and check for wear (pull a main and a rod bearing out from each engine to check if anyone "turned" the crank. check the numbers on the back-side of the bearings). Don't be surprised if the engines were rebuilt previously.
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Old 08-05-2010, 09:02 AM
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You didn't mention anything about the 350, there are a lot of 350's out there that will get beat by a well built 327.

Displacement helps, but if you're stuck with 350ci and 882 heads then the 327 (depending on the heads) coudl easily do better across the board.

Find out what the head casting numbers are for both engines. And if you can get a look at bearing/bore wear (these will indicate necessary machining).

Keep in min dyou can get a decent running Vortec 350 for about $500. An intake/cam/carb/vale spring swap can have you a really good street engine for a total of about $1500, less if you use used parts.
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Old 08-05-2010, 02:45 PM
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327 or 350 rebuild.

Go with the 350 if you are on a budget! Stock engine kits can be purchased from Northern automotive for $189.00 with a few upgrades, rings, cam etc, and a rocker arm and pushrod kit, you are under $300.00 total for parts. About another $400.00 for machine work and $300.00 for a intake and carb, you can build a budget 350 for about $1000.00. Really a good deal. Always use a new fuel and water pump on a new engine. Good luck on your project.
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