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Old 07-20-2013, 01:17 AM
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327 cam choice

I am new to the site thanks to a new friend larry. I am building a 327 30 over flat top pistons 60cc 1.94 heads wich I thought was 64 cc but after checking them they turned out to be 60cc. they were new in 1964 with that many years of being in so many different hands its not to much of a surprise that they are 60cc now. all of this is going into my 1955 chevy belair 4 door 3:36 rear end turbo 350 auto. the hardest thing so far is to pick the right cam for this motor. this will be my first motor and I want to do it right the first time. I plan on driving often to and from work and car shows and were ever. not looking gas mileage but a little lump at an idle but not a full race motor but if some pulls up next to me at a light and wants to race I just might have something for them in my grocery getter. comp cams said this one xe 268h part number12-242-2 duration @.50 224/230 lift is .477/.480 with a 110 lsa .I have been reading up some and more confused now than I was before. what would be good way to go. is there a lobe seperation to look for or stay away from I'am lost.i'am sure that I'am not the frist one with this problem. any help would be great thanks

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Old 07-20-2013, 05:13 AM
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Your 327 should have around 9.8:1 cr with 60cc heads.

I would avoid comps xtreme cams, they are hard are the valve train and tend to go flat. Do your heads have screw in studs?

I would get an old school 268H from compcams. Much easier on the valve train. These cams don't make as much power but last longer. The 268H will have a little lope in a 327.

Your small engine and big car actually calls for a smaller cam, like the compcam 260H but 9.8:1 compression is a little too high for the 260H cam.

The 268H needs headers and a higher stall converter. 2000-2400 rpm stall would be nice.

Don't expect to have a fast car with this setup. Maybe a high 15 second car. About as fast as a new mini van. A much bigger engine, higher gears, or boost is what you need to get that heavy brick moving.

good luck!
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:30 AM
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isky Z-20 or Z-25,these cams are for a semi serious 327.If your CR is 9.8 then you might need the bigger cam.What is the deck height of the pistons and what gasket are you using.

also what size carb are you using? 750?headers? (the Z-20 cam would have a very small bump at idle and still rev over 6k)
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Old 07-20-2013, 11:05 AM
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I due have screw in studs, a little over stock converter, Q-jet carb. a friend is an old school hot rodder from back in the day and carbs are his specialty.no headers 63 corvette ram horns .have not measured the deck height but the block is stock. I quess I will go with just the felpro gasket that the kit comes with unless there is a bigger bang for the buck.
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Old 07-20-2013, 11:49 AM
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use the little z-20 cam or something similar when you get the details figured out. The solid cam can "pass" as a duntov cam. with the stock exhaust manifold,dont use a big cam,especially a hydraulic.
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:20 PM
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If you want to do stop light battle with this 327'ed 55 you'd want some headers + 4.10's and a 10" converter for the th350.
Then it will be fun and go pretty good with the cams you are looking at.
I like Isky 201271 (with the 4.10's and converter, get some headers)

I like Isky cam 201264/271-12 for this one too. Especially if you are not going to add headers.
If you don;t have the real deal 2 1/2" exit real deal corvette ram horns , don't expect much.
and the headers are way better with either cam.

If you wanted to build a cool street 327 without headers and or gears , you should have built a supercharged 327.

You still could, by using a cylinder head with a 76 to 80cc chamber. Like a home ported 920 or 441 head.
The Weiand 142 blower fits under the 55's hood. Now you will have the 327 you really want.
And with all the street ability factors you are after (drive to work etc) and real power for them stoplights.
The 327 you got is an excellent base for a mild supercharged street motor and you got the right car fr it.

If you decide to go down this road look at the supercharger ready- off the shelf Crane Cams Hydraulics for it.
Now with the lil blown 327 you got something to "show" at them car shows.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 07-20-2013 at 02:40 PM.
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:22 PM
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I due have the real ram that exit 2 1/2 they are on my stock 265 with 2 1/4 pipe back to flow masters it sounds good now
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:04 PM
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I was on a corvette forum and then was sent to parts geek .com for the ram horns $110 with shipping for both they came with gaskets and studs
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Old 07-21-2013, 01:12 AM
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Use this:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hr...make/chevrolet and get headers, NOT manifolds.What are you running for an intake?
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:23 AM
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Edelbrock performer. I plane on driving my car all over and don't want the headache of having exhaust leaks and tightening the header bolts often
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:30 AM
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it is ok not to want headers. Just don't expect to have a lot of power.

Compcam also makes a DEH cam which is designed for engines that use stock exhaust manifolds. I believe they make a 255DEH and a 265DEH. This cam has extra exhaust duration help get rid of the exhaust through restrictive exhaust systems.
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:36 AM
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Aren't the 2 1/2 corvette ram horns flow better than just a regular stock manifold. I know I like the way they sound right now
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:39 AM
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If you buy good quality headers with decent flanges,they shouldn't leak. $139.95 headers dont usually last as long as the gaskets.You get what you pay for.
I have a set of JereStahl headers...I changed the gaskets once when I went to a mandrel bent system
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:05 PM
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Chicken wing? There must be a story behind that, but welcome to the forum Keith, good to see ya.

I don't have much to add to this cam issue, but you're getting some good input. One thing I will add is stay away from the "Thumper" line of cams, they tend to me more a poser cam and tough to tune with. Have you gone to Comps and listened to some of their cam sound clips? Sure you've used their CompuCam feature on their website for a general idea, but don't take it as gospel.

I took the kart you sold me to the track Saturday (it was 109 degrees out...) but couldn't come up with the right seat, Craig brought a few to try out, nothing worked so I ordered one. Too many Quarter Pounders with cheese...

BTW, PM me your email and I'll send you an Excel spreadsheet I built with a bunch of calculation features, like Static c.r., etc.
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Old 07-21-2013, 03:12 PM
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Yes new exhaust headers can be trying. But here is somethng you can do before installing your new headers
to help ensure they don;t leak.
Take a big metal file or bodymans metal file and true up the mating surfaces.
A little black spray paint reveals low spots and your file ing progress.

It relly helps, especially on the cheaper production headers. you just have to finish the job before install.

Yes the new headers bolts can be pesky and will require re tightening a few times until they and the new headers take a set. This is true of all new header installs. You will notice this on new intake manifold installs too. But the bolts soon take a set and stay tight.

Header gasket life.. If the engine is not set up right timing curve,carb jetting etc etc
especiallyt the idle setup on a cammed up motor, you can expect very hot exhaust flange gtemps and very short header gasket life. This is caused by extreme exhaust port/flange temperatures caused by incorrect engine tune.
When you correct the tune, your exhaust header gasket will miraculously now last and last and last without
leaking or blow out... burn out. it is the excess heat created by the inncorrect engine tune that kills the headers gaskets.

Will also warp exhaust manifold too. The fix is to correct the engine tune.

Follow these pre-install prep engine tune and tips and you won't hate exhaust headers quite so much.
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