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Old 06-29-2010, 05:47 PM
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327 dream gone for lack of a twenty dollar tool

"buddy" of mine gives me 307 crankshaft bout a year ago. All appears well till I was ready to take to machine shop. Turns out they did not use a balancer puller and destroyed threads and hollowed out the snout to where it is not even worth tryin to fix. Buttheads! Get the right tool fool! Anyway back to the stock 350 '442' cast crank. I will get it cut .010/.010 and fit back in block. Is this right? Any tricks on final fit up. I will clean clean clean when I get back I promise! Later gearheads!

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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2010, 05:55 PM
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i see my buddy work on other peoples stuff and even his own whether it be dritbikes, scooters, gotcarts, his 406 trans am whatever it may be but his methods and "techniques" are more than enough to keep my stuff locked up and outta sight when hes around. some scary stuff
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Old 06-29-2010, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4BoltMainiac
"buddy" of mine gives me 307 crankshaft bout a year ago. All appears well till I was ready to take to machine shop. Turns out they did not use a balancer puller and destroyed threads and hollowed out the snout to where it is not even worth tryin to fix. Buttheads! Get the right tool fool! Anyway back to the stock 350 '442' cast crank. I will get it cut .010/.010 and fit back in block. Is this right? Any tricks on final fit up. I will clean clean clean when I get back I promise! Later gearheads!
You can use a helicoil-type repair insert, or take it out OS to either the next fractional size, or to a metric size.
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Old 06-29-2010, 07:27 PM
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307 rebuilt cranks are pretty inexpensive. Why not get one and use the old one as a core. You will still need to re-balance it with the new 327 pistons. You could also get a large journal 327 rotating assembly, no balancing and machining needed for the crank then just find how much you need to bore the 350 block and order accordingly.
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:17 AM
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did you a favor.

why build a 327 when you can build a 350?

350's make more power.
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Old 07-02-2010, 05:35 PM
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You don't need the balancer bolt. My 350 doesn't have one, just whack the balancer on with a block of wood and a hammer and you're good. it won't fall off.
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Old 07-02-2010, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdog7373
You don't need the balancer bolt.
Not always true.JMO


Cole
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Old 07-03-2010, 01:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4BoltMainiac

"buddy" of mine gives me 307 crankshaft bout a year ago. All appears well till I was ready to take to machine shop. Turns out they did not use a balancer puller and destroyed threads and hollowed out the snout to where it is not even worth tryin to fix. Buttheads!
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdog7373

You don't need the balancer bolt. My 350 doesn't have one, just whack the balancer on with a block of wood and a hammer and you're good. it won't fall off.
Must be an employee of the machine shop on FL vacation...
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Old 07-03-2010, 09:51 AM
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YIKES, what we don't know comes back to bite...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdog7373
You don't need the balancer bolt. My 350 doesn't have one, just whack the balancer on with a block of wood and a hammer and you're good. it won't fall off.
OPPS! there goes the crank end thrust!
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Old 07-03-2010, 02:25 PM
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Most small journal SB's weren't drilled and tapped for a balancer bolt and literally millions of them each went thousands of miles without losing a balancer even in moderate performance use. Oh yeah, the accepted installation method was to give it a few good whacks with a big mallet and a block of Oak.
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Old 07-03-2010, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippie
Most small journal SB's weren't drilled and tapped for a balancer bolt and literally millions of them each went thousands of miles without losing a balancer even in moderate performance use. Oh yeah, the accepted installation method was to give it a few good whacks with a big mallet and a block of Oak.

Thanks for backing me up!
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Old 07-03-2010, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippie
Most small journal SB's weren't drilled and tapped for a balancer bolt and literally millions of them each went thousands of miles without losing a balancer even in moderate performance use. Oh yeah, the accepted installation method was to give it a few good whacks with a big mallet and a block of Oak.
Many low performance engines (2 barrel 327 and 283) in the 60's were just pressed on with no bolt, but everything after about 1968 has a bolt to retain the balancer. I certainly wouldn't run without one, makes a real mess if it comes off, to both the engine/radiator and the front sheetmetal. I've seen it happen.

Pounding the balancer on is a common shade tree mechanic butcher way of putting it on, but that don't make it the right way.
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Old 07-03-2010, 05:25 PM
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For that matter, I owned a '68 Impala 327 4-barrel/PG engine that was also presses on, no tapped hole whatsoever. It wasn't the small damper, either. Surprised me a little, but I can assure you- that damper was ON THERE!
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Old 07-03-2010, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
Pounding the balancer on is a common shade tree mechanic butcher way of putting it on, but that don't make it the right way.
You're right, only a "shade tree mechanic butcher" uses a block of wood. you were suppoose to "drive" it on with the proper Kent-Moore J-5590 Tool and a ball peen hammer. That's straight from a 1963 General Motors service manual BTW. Look it up. From the illustration it just looks like a big *** brass punch........... but what do I know? When I took Auto Tech back in the 70's we still used dwell meters, point files, and all kinds of crude instruments so I guess that makes me a "shade tree mechanic butcher" too.
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Old 07-03-2010, 06:53 PM
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In my experience, if the crankshaft is manually moved forward after each blow, there's little chance of damaging the thrust surfaces of the thrust bearings.

The problems arise when the damper is hammered on repeatedly, w/o moving the crank each time. And if the damper is hit on the outer ring, OR if the inner hub of the damper is hit w/a steel hammer.
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