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Old 02-14-2006, 08:17 AM
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327 engine, machine shop advice?

Just got a hold of a 327 motor #3858180, double hump heads. The story is this came from a guy that had it professionally rebuilt but passed away before he got his car project finished. I got it for dirt cheap. This had sat for a while so it's a little dirty, no rust anywhere I can see. The cylinder walls looks perfect, no ridge at all and motor turns freely. The heads look pretty damn good too, they don't look like they were rebuilt though. I think at least they need the valves reground and maybe new seats. I have never taken anything to a machine shop and don't want to get burned on this one. I think I can just have the heads done, clean up the engine a bit, paint and be good. But I really want it done right so I want to take it to a machine shop to check it all out. What would be the going rate for something like this.
I am not looking for a speed machine just a solid driver for my 54' chevy 210. I want to put a 350 auto tranny on it, what kind of stall converter should I use. I have one that is a 2500? Should I just use that? I'm not sure what I would do without this board, the advice I recieve is invaluable. Also, can anyone recommend anyone in the Monterey/Salinas/Santa Cruz area that does good work??

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Old 02-14-2006, 08:32 AM
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My advice to you would be to mark each piece with a unique mark so you know you are getting the same pieces back. I have been burnt more than once by some knucklehead at a machine shop swapping parts. Some of these morons think a 327 block is just another 327 block. I once took a forged steel 350 crank to well know local machine shop to be turned 10-10. When I went to pick it up they brought out a cast 350 crank. It was my word against theirs.

Vince
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Old 02-14-2006, 08:53 AM
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machine shop

Vince, I here stories like that all the time..... how in the heck can these places stay in business???? If i did that one time i would loose ever customer i have!!!!!!

Gavin, the best thing to do is ask other hot rodders in you area who they use.. Go to a car show and ask there, most guys are more then willing to help..

Pick up the phone book and call some shops, ask if they have reference for you to call. I have 6 or 8 good customers that gave me permission to hand there phone number out for people to call and ask about me....

If the shop is backed up 2 or 3 weeks it is probably a good deal. If they can do it right away that would be a flag, if it's a 8 week wait that might be another flag... Both shops could be good but it's just not the norm....


Keith
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Old 02-14-2006, 11:27 AM
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You looking at about $40.00 per head to have them reconditioned. And another $50.00 to have the valves cut, I would suggest getting a three angle valve job when they do it. Well worth it. As far as cleaning the block they usally "hot tank" them. With yours being mostly assembled they may not want to do it. To hot tank mine was $60.00, but the did a great job. Cleans the crud out all of the old bolts holes and they primed it.
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Old 02-14-2006, 12:43 PM
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I was quoted $600 for the heads. I didn't really make it clear that I only thoughr that the valves needed to be ground and maybe seats. They might have though I wanted the head completely redone. Does sound like prices are a bit better in your area. Hot tanking around here is quite a bit more.
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Old 02-14-2006, 01:28 PM
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Heads

I would say that $600 is for new guides (always shot on any small block chevy head with over 40,000 miles on it) hardened exhaust seats ( so you can run un-leaded fuel) new valves springs, seals, etc......

About the average price for a good solid head rebuild...

Keith
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Old 02-14-2006, 04:51 PM
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$600.00? I took mine three months ago had new valve guides, springs installed (I bought them from Summit), they set the spring height, magnafluxed, and a few rocker studs replaced. $60.00 each. I paid an extra $50.00 for the 3 angle valve job. They cleaned and primed them also. No decking work performed. $600.00, geeeez.
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Old 02-14-2006, 08:21 PM
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I have to agree. $600 sounds waaaay steep. Here, I'd pay $300 or less.
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Old 02-15-2006, 05:41 AM
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heads

You bought valve guides from summit???

Alot depends where you live, prices very greatly. But i can tell you no one i know, any place would install 16 valve guides, do a valve job, clean the heads,check and install springs for $60.00 a head... If i did that i would be broke in a month....

Are you positive they installed 16 guides???? I need the name of this place, so i can farm out my work to them... That means if you subtract the valve job and assembly etc they installed 16 guides for like $50.00?????

Keith
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Old 02-15-2006, 07:51 AM
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These are old Camel Hump heads that are getting completely redone with all new parts by a well known and trusted man. I brought this in yesterday, and everyone around here says the same thing about him. He's trustworthy and does the best work. I want to do this right, and when all is said and done, I will have a newly rebuilt 327 motor and heads for under $1200, that includes what I paid for the motor itself. The only thing I am missing on this motor is the carb. I have a few 4 barrell's lying around that need to be rebuilt, but I'm feeling like a new motor needs a new carb. What would be a good carb? Not looking for best possible HP, looking more for easy tuning and reliability.
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Old 02-15-2006, 07:56 AM
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Get a 500 / 600cfm holley
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Old 02-15-2006, 08:12 AM
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Another thing the machine shop guy told me was that the original intake manifold I have for it will work with a 4 barrel with an adapter, but will be a pain and I should really get a pre 1986 intake manifold that a regular 4 barrel will bold right on to. He did give me some reasons not to run this one, but my memory is failing me right now, pretty sure it had something to do with the unnecessary bolts. Since the valve covers are solid with no oil fill or breather on then I will also need a manifold with the oil fill in it.
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Old 02-15-2006, 12:42 PM
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I am wondering why a holley 500 2bbl carb would be your recommendation? Wouldn't a 4bbl carb be more appropriate. I guess fuel savings could be one reasons, but something funny happens when I go to fill up. If I drive my work truck I ***** and complain about the gas prices, but when I bring a hotrod I don't seem to mind the prices. I also spend more by putting super in.
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Old 02-15-2006, 11:14 PM
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http://www.holley.com/0-1848-1

i meant a 465cfm.

http://www.classictruckshop.com/garage/shopmathcfm1.asp

at 80% Volumetric Efficiency and 5500 rpm.. 416.3 CFM
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Old 02-16-2006, 09:22 AM
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I have a 327 in my 62 Chevy pickup. I went with the original valve covers also. I went with and Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. It has a space for the oil fill tube. A friend of mine machined the hole for me and I installed a chrome filler tube. It looks awesome. I went with an Edelbrock AVS 650 carb. Its a great combo on my motor.
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