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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2012, 10:49 PM
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You lost me AP. How do you measure the correct port size for a given engine? I always thought the entire combo, plus how high the given engine would rev would dictate the head port size so I don't see how it could be measured, unless I missed something here?
When I build ANY engine, I never consider one part of the engine, I think of seperate parts of the engine to work together as a team so maximum power can be made.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2012, 05:27 AM
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1.21 giga-watts???!!!!
 
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Just more bull from AP about things he doesn't really know. Assumes compression ratio, overstates cost of cam change in an LS, etc. And of course, the ubiquitous he has too much time working on all his projects to basically give a sensible answer to a poster's question. Why bother coming on here if you're so busy, AP. You have always given poor advice, never any specs to back up the opinions you spew forth with. You don't attempt to use your "vast knowledge" to educate, you just attempt to try to one up everyone on here. How many threads have you participated in and had people question what you post and the attitude of the post? Take the hint, hoss.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2012, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
You lost me AP. How do you measure the correct port size for a given engine? I always thought the entire combo, plus how high the given engine would rev would dictate the head port size so I don't see how it could be measured, unless I missed something here?
When I build ANY engine, I never consider one part of the engine, I think of seperate parts of the engine to work together as a team so maximum power can be made.
You pick the port size simmilar to picking a cam, based off of engine size and target rpm for peak power. A 195cc port would be perfect for a 327 and a peak around 6500, unfortunately there isn't a cheap set of 195cc heads with a 56cc chamber. 210's are a little large but they'll save a lot of money- it depends what the OP can afford. The other issue is that 210's will allow for a little growth should he decide to upgrade the short block. Run a solid short block with a good valvetrain and the 327 could spin to 7500 where the 210's would be perfect.

As for worrying about low rpm with big ports, the bigger ports will allow a slightly smaller duration and slightly more lsa for the same power peak, thus making it more tame than you'd think. Ask anyone with oversized ports how it drives, a stock 6.0l in my truck is a great example of how they work marvelously off idle if done right.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2012, 09:06 AM
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1.21 giga-watts???!!!!
 
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Stupidest comment yet. Their not the right part but they'll save a lot of money. Really? Really?

Please, AP, once and for all, post something that proves your expertise. You constantly trip over yourself in your posts. What do the engines you build sell for? Where are some actual dyno sheets? Where do you race? How about a build list of these "numerous" projects and engines? Hold your projects up for everybody to see.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2012, 09:22 AM
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I have an idea how about some flow #s between the procomp 210 head and the afr 195 head
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2012, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77amc
are those pics of the ACTUAL engine in your Nova?
It looks to be a late model engine with the casting marks and center bolt covers..
Could be a 305.
Did you check the casting #'s before you purchased it?

If the rest of the drive train can't handle the 400hp that your after, it could break things quickly.

A late model 6.0 (Ls style block), level-10 200r4, and a fab-9 rear 4 link (or Hotrods to hell suspension) and you'll be very happy!


E

Yes, I ran the casting number and it was confirmed to be a 327...# 3858174. The trans is a BowTie Stage 2 700R4 that is good to 450hp, and the rear has new eaton posi, Richmond 373's and moser axles that were all done a few thousand miles ago.

My parts have all been ordered and I am going to run the 268 cam I have in it now. I think this will get me close enough, and won't have to dive further into the motor. I ended up getting the modified Vortecs from Scoggins. I also ordered some long tubes, all new ignition components (Cap, Rotor, advance kit, plugs, wires, etc etc.), fule pressure regulator, and some odds and ends.

I think these upgrades will allow me to enjoy the car much more, and didn't hurt the pocket book too badly. I appreciate all of the feedback and will be posting up more questions as I start getting evetyhing torn apart and put back together.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2012, 08:07 PM
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I'm building a '62 283 that's .060 over and just put in a Comp x268 cam in it.
I also had a shop rebuild my ported Vortec (062) heads and the lift is 477/480 and he said that the springs were slightly higher closed seat pressure (needless to say) open pressure..
You might like to look into that.

Going with roller rockers to help out with the extra tension.

E
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2012, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCa06Z
Yes, I ran the casting number and it was confirmed to be a 327...# 3858174. The trans is a BowTie Stage 2 700R4 that is good to 450hp, and the rear has new eaton posi, Richmond 373's and moser axles that were all done a few thousand miles ago.

My parts have all been ordered and I am going to run the 268 cam I have in it now. I think this will get me close enough, and won't have to dive further into the motor. I ended up getting the modified Vortecs from Scoggins. I also ordered some long tubes, all new ignition components (Cap, Rotor, advance kit, plugs, wires, etc etc.), fule pressure regulator, and some odds and ends.

I think these upgrades will allow me to enjoy the car much more, and didn't hurt the pocket book too badly. I appreciate all of the feedback and will be posting up more questions as I start getting evetyhing torn apart and put back together.
You will also need vortec rocker arms, vortec intake, and vortec valve covers
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2012, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 454C10
You will also need vortec rocker arms, vortec intake, and vortec valve covers
The valve covers I have will work with these, and the kit comes with everything else included. Intake, gaskets, intake bolts, head bolts, rocker arms, etc.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2012, 10:36 PM
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Xmas in May...



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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2012, 05:49 AM
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You may want to get these headers coated with something before installing them. That paint will last about 5 minutes.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2012, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 454C10
You may want to get these headers coated with something before installing them. That paint will last about 5 minutes.
Ya, I am going to test fit them, then get them coated. Fitment on these cars is a real PITA.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2012, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 454C10
You will also need vortec rocker arms, vortec intake, and vortec valve covers

Thought that was a given.. Sorry

Got it covered. OH, and a billet small bodied dizzy

You should look into some of these sellers on Ebay that sell header wrap.
I just did a header for my Ram50 and it turned out GREAT. Will lessen underhood temps too!

E
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2012, 11:31 AM
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Party Time!

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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2012, 12:37 PM
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If this was my 327 powered chevy II that already has a th700r4 with stock converter and I wanted real power but keep the easy cruising
And did not want to dig into the block:

I would supercharge the 327.
I would get some real hi perf performance cylinder heads with larger 70-72+CC
chambers to drop the cr and increase flow.
AFR 195 (75cc) Brodix IK200 70cc)
Jegs "USA" aluminum 195cc 70cc
Edelbrock performer RPM 70cc
Then bolt on a Weiand 142 blower.
Try the 268 cam you got. or use a Crane HMV278 (H-278-2)

Set it up for around 7psi boost. 1.95 to 2.10:1 pulley drive ratio.
The carb will need a few minor up grades and jetting and the distributor will need a recurve. to make them blower friendly.
The fuel system on the car will likely need upgradeing for increased flow capacity.

Your low compression street premium pump gas friendly blown 327 Chevy II will kick *** and cruise like a champ.
Big big reliable streetable power and torque.
Tame street-hiway cruising. The 3.73's are just right.

You will slay your fair share of stroker motors, LS motors and big blocks.
Mustangs and foreign stuff will be snack food.
Your stock 327 pistons are fine as long as there is no piston dome.
(flat top or dished) Low compression and reasonable 6-7psi max boost is the key.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 06-01-2012 at 12:47 PM.
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