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Old 03-16-2013, 10:53 PM
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327 idle problems

I have a 1968 327 with vortec heads dome piston edelbrock intake and 600cfm thunder series carb and I think 292 comp cam hydraulic lifter. I can't get it to idle IM not sure if the carb is adjust right but since I got the car I couldn't get it to idle it runs go od just won't idle. It been sitting up for awhile now and I am going to start work on it this week and I just thought that y'all might be able to help me thanks

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Old 03-16-2013, 11:19 PM
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How much initial ignition timing has it got? If its a 292 comp cam, it will need a ton of static timing to idle properly or just use locked-out timing.
Auto or manual?
If auto, what stall torque converter?



Duke
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Old 03-16-2013, 11:22 PM
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For the 292H cam in your 327 with a auto transmission.

Lock out the mechanical advance system

Set the now locked timing at 36deg BTDC.
The timing is always set with no vacuum advance, and using a timing light.

Then connect the vacuum advance to the ported vacuum source.

Swap the power piston step up springs in the carb for 3" or 4" vacuum rated
so the primary metering rods stay down (lean) at idle.

A stock low stall torque converter will not work with this cam.
Get a 9" or 10" 3500+++stall converter.

It will now idle rough but rock steady at around 900rpm. and stay clean and stable when idling in gear.
Let it warm up and reset the idle mixture screws for best idle quality using a manifold vacuum gauge.
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Old 03-16-2013, 11:27 PM
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Be sure the starter motor brace is installed. A ignition power interrupt toggle switch allows
easy hot starting when using lock out timing. Its just that easy.
This the set up for a auto transmission and this camshaft. For a manual trans its a little different.
A stock converter will not work. A "3000 stall" is not enough converter.
you want a 3500+++...a 8" 5000 stall is not too much for this cam in a 327.
More is better if you want a fast 327. Will need a stiff gear too. 4.30:1+++
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:02 AM
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Do you find that many high compression engines that are used as driving vehicles have hot start issues? I believe there must be. The remote mount solenoid for heat soak will not help . Some beasts have so much seat pressure and compression, they are impossible to turnover after a 100 mile journey. You end up spending some time were ever you end up.

A interrupt is a good idea to try and get it to make that first revolution.

Any other cures?...A timing starter retard might help too. MSD makes a good one.
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:35 AM
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Even with a MSD "starter saver" start retard (requires a MSD 6A or similar CD box) Which is a nice
add on for sure on any GM car,

You will appreciate the simplicity and effectiveness of the simple dash mounted spark interrupt toggle switch.
Don't forget the rear starter motor bracket. Get one.

When ever using headers on a GM car it is real nice to get a starter motor heat shield and thermal heat wrap too.
and get the Ford style fender mounted starter solenoid.
Locked timing or not.

No more waiting around for the motor to cool, after a long run.

If using a GM HEI the interupt switch goes on the big pink Distributor power wire.

If using a MSD spark box, the interupt switch goes on the small red switch on wire,,,not the big main power wire.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 03-17-2013 at 12:42 AM.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:56 AM
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I didn't builds the car the guy I bought it from did it does have a 3500 stall and a shift kit it a 350 transmission and it ain't been drove much in fact it ain't been drove on the roads since 08 I been really wanting to get it back going it will run find as long as I keep my foot on the gas but as soon take my foot off it dies set the idle screw I on it and it's pretty much works fine but I thought it wasn't right it has a Mallory hei. How a electric choke would work vs a manual thanks

Last edited by jrbaker; 03-17-2013 at 08:03 AM.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:02 AM
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with the comp 292H cam in your 327 once you have locked out the timing curve
and reset the carb it will idle happily in gear with a 3500stall.

This cam needs lots of timing at idle and the timing must not drop off in gear.
The locked mechanical advance solves this and correctes the idle.

Get new power piston step up springs for the carb too...3" or 4" vacuum rated
This keeps the pri metering rods down lean at idle, when in gear. Keeps the idle clean.
On that car a manual cable operated choke is best.

Fix the distributor first. Lock it out and use ported vacuum advance on the carb.
Probabily needs a new set of fresh spark plugs too...as the setup was wrong.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 03-17-2013 at 08:09 AM.
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:48 AM
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I just looked at the motor it doesn't have a vacuum ported it has a spot for it but it's blocked so should I put one on it thanks
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:34 PM
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Another hot start tip would be to run a reasonable gauge wire, and keep them short in length.
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:07 PM
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I was wrong about the cam it's a 268 comp cam I just talk to the guy who built it he said that the distributor moves when revving up so IM going to check the marks later today thanks
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrbaker View Post
I was wrong about the cam it's a 268 comp cam I just talk to the guy who built it he said that the distributor moves when revving up so IM going to check the marks later today thanks
While the comp 292G cam really likes locked out timing

The 268H or the XE268H-10cam don;t need quite so agressive timing.

These cams tend to like 20 to 26deg inital timing at idle.

You get this by limiting the travel of the mech advance system
from typical stock 20 to 26deg,,,,limit that to around 10-12deg of mech advance travel.
You cannot get this just by swapping springs

You want 20 to 26deg timing at idle ( THAT DOES NOT DROP IN GEAR)
and 34 to 36deg at max advance maxing out at around 3000 rpm.

then 10-12deg max of vacuum advance at hi vacuum cruise part throttle.
Use ported vacuum on the carb.

20-26deg at idle

34 to 36deg at Max mech advance. (a 10 to 12deg mech adv curve.)

Do not use the lightest tension adv springs . They tend to be inconsistant.

10-12deg max of added vacuum advance Ported vacuum. 4" rated step up springs in the carb.
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrbaker View Post
I was wrong about the cam it's a 268 comp cam I just talk to the guy who built it he said that the distributor moves when revving up so IM going to check the marks later today thanks
Everything you need to know and more is HERE. If you have specific questions, just ask.
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