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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2013, 02:25 PM
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Well the camshaft you ordered is only a bit smaller duration than the one already in the car.

A 2400 stall won't be enough.

You spent a lot of money for nothing.
In a Comp cam you should have ordered Comp cam # 12-208-2 CS 265DEH-10
A much better match for the purpose and a 2400 stall. It has the rpm range and driving character you
are after. it is the right cam for your 327.
your car your money...

The cam you ordered and the cam that is in the car now both don't get real busy until 3000+rpm
Both need the same 3200-3500 stall 10" torque converter. And both will need the carb and distributor re-tuning mods
to run nice. Your new carb will need the same re-tuning to make it right with that cam.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-03-2013 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 02-03-2013, 05:55 PM
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The cam I ordered is not alot smaller no, but the lobe seperation is 112 vs my old cams 106. So I know that will have a pretty big effect on getting going. Should move the powerband down also correct? Yes i understand I will give up peak power for a flat power band. I know the cam powerbands are based on a 350, which according to comp cam is 1800-6200 for the l79 plus. So I figured 2000ish for the 327? That why I said 2400 converter? Correct me If i am wrong. It is still not to late to cancel my order.
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:02 PM
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It will want a minimum of a 10" 3000 stall. . A"2400 stall" is a stock converter that they bent the fins over a bit more to raise the stall.
And it is no the right converter for that cam.
All you need to do is retune what you got. It runs like crap cause of the set up.
What converter do you got in it now?

If you are dead set on using a mild 2400 stall use one of the cams I listed. They are just right.
They make great street power. A good match for a 327 with a mild stall and 4.10's
strong to 5500+rpm and the torque is right where you want it.

Both the cams you got and the Nastalgia + cam you like need a 10" 3000+ stall.
The will not idle correctly in gear with a "2400 stall" and the power comes on at 3000+rpm, on both.

Any cam that has 229 @ .050" intake duration needs a 10" 3000 stall. even more in a 327.
This cam will be lazy with a stock or near stock converter especially in a 327.
It really wants a 3500 stall converter.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-03-2013 at 06:16 PM.
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:10 PM
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Why would I need a 3000 stall?
It has a 2000 stall from my old 350. I know that is wrong for the motor, i didnt know any better back then. I guess when you say re-tune I dont get what you mean. motor is set at 16 degrees and total timing is 36 around 3500ish?

I was going to get a 3500 stall and 4.56 gears or 4.88s, but want a car that I can drive, not run at the strip.
I hate the holley double pumper i was always messing with it.
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:20 PM
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Your motor only needs correct setup and a high stall converter.
The cam, carb etc etc is fine. The distributor needs a recurve and some carb setup.
needs a 10" 3500 stall. The gears are good.

26deg initial at idle 36deg at max advance. a short limited 10deg mechanical advance curve.
4.5 power valve and reset the carb up.

The cam you got will not work with a stock torque converter. but the milder cams I pointed too do work really well with a stock converter.
Pick one.

You are always messing with the carb casue its not set up right . either is the distributor.

26deg at idle 36 @ max advance 10deg advacne curve.

( or simply lock out the advance curve and run it locked at 36deg BTDC) you can keep the vacuum advance.The cam you got needs this kind of curve and so will the new one you want.
Neither work with a stock converter and a 2400 is not right either. It is just a cheap tweeked stock converter.

start by recurving the distributor correcty. Try it locked out and see.
more idle advance is better. 16 and 36 is not going to work. You want 26 and 36.
26deg at idle or more. Lock it out and see.

the 4.10's are fine for the street.


again
Any cam that has 229 @ .050" intake duration needs a 10" 3000 stall. even more in a 327.
This cam will be lazy with a stock or near stock converter especially in a 327.
It really wants a 3500 stall converter.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-03-2013 at 06:30 PM.
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:27 PM
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holy crap 26 degrees that should help with take off correct? run cooler? would edelbrock thunder series with electric choke be ok to swap too?
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:38 PM
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cams for a 2000 (stock) to a 2400 stall converter and 327CID

211 @.050" to not more than 218@.050
The Comp 265DEH-10 is ideal. 12-208-2

( You can use up to a 3000 10" converter if you like to go fast) 327's need a bit of a converter.
its not too much at all , especially with a 218deg cam.

Comp's listed RPM ranges are fubared. especially the lower end .

This is a nice street cam for a 327 with a near stock converter and 4.10's.
It is very easy to over cam a 327 and stock converter stall.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-03-2013 at 06:55 PM.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2013, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nova68 View Post
holy crap 26 degrees that should help with take off correct? run cooler? would edelbrock thunder series with electric choke be ok to swap too?
try the carb you got once it is corrected. its only nasty cause of the incorrect set up and lack of the converter stall.
The cam you got will not work with a 2000 stall.
it needs 26deg timng at idle mimimum.. It wil probabily run best simply locked out 36deg BTDC. it will be a whole different motor
(4.5" power valve 10" 3500 stall)
You will see just how nice a cammed up 327 Nova can run. and you can leave the hood shut and drive
it cause it will no longer "load up" on you.
When it is set up correctly it will no longer be a pain to drive at all with the present howards camshaft.

You can fix the cam or fix the converter stall. your choice.
start by locking out the distributor advance. You will love your car again.
Then get a 10" 3500 stall and a 4.5" power valve for the carb and reset it. (proper throttle position-idle transfer slot exposure at idle)
That howards cam needs a minimum of a 10" 3500 stall converter. The 4.10's are fine for the street.
(ya max drag performance on slicks would want a 4.56-4.88)

once set up correctly and with the right torque converter your Nova will idle rock steady at 800 to 900rpm and not drop down ,, in gear like it is doing now. it will be very responsive , and idle clean and steady and go like hell and "drive" very well too.

Be sure the OEM starter motor support bracket is installed on your GM starter. If its missing, get one.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-03-2013 at 07:03 PM.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:06 PM
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This is how you limit or lock out the advance on a HEI distributor



Adding a simple dash mounted toggle switch to interrupt the spark power for hot cranking, allows you to start a hot motor with locked timing
Its just that easy.


It will idle clean, respond to the throttle and GLH when you rug it.
And it will likely be a whole whole lot better on gas (if you can keep your foot out of it)

When you get the distributor mechanical curve fixed up (or simply locked out) the vacuum advance hose goes to the ported vaccum source on the carb.
Be sure th PCV system is working. its part of the carb design and essential for correct idle.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-03-2013 at 07:25 PM.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:31 PM
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I have the Mallory comp s/s dizzy has to have the box to run. How would I wire that for hot starts? I think I could figure out how to lock out advance on it.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nova68 View Post
I have the Mallory comp s/s dizzy has to have the box to run. How would I wire that for hot starts? I think I could figure out how to lock out advance on it.
Get the part number and download the mallory instructions .
Some of these have a fully adjustable advance system
that allows limiting it to 10deg travel.

26 at idle 36 @ max advance.... 10deg curve
do not use the lightest springs. too sloppy inconsistant.
you ant a smooth curve that peaks about 2800-3200 rpm
and is rock stable at idle., in and out of gear. (it must not drop off)

or simply lock it out.

If using a MSD 6A box the little red wire is the power switching wire.
This is the power switch on off wire that normally goes to the KEY "on"
12V on. Install the toggle switch inline on this switching wire.

Not the big RED wire.

Don;t be surprised at all if "locked out" is just right for this motor.

Because this motor was never set up correctly it probabily needs new fresh spark plugs.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-03-2013 at 07:48 PM.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2013, 07:45 PM
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68'nova, I got a similar cam to you, prolly bit bigger, in a 350
Some of my mates got similar and even bigger cams in their sbc's and they got fumey rich idles, fouling plugs, rough idles etc etc. Real PITA to drive on the street.
When I built my latest engine, I followed F-BIRD'ss tuning recommendations (locked out timing, yada yada) to the 'tee' because he sounded like he knew what he was talking about, and he does... Mine idles smoooth, clean like a taxi cab, rock solid @900 rpm, even down to 700rpm with a bit of shake , super responsive , goes like stink, yet my mother could drive it to go grocery shopping. Well, not really, cause she would poo her pants, but you know what I mean. I'd stick with the cam you got, mine has REAL good street manners the way it's 'set-up'.

Hope this helps, FWIW

Duke

Last edited by thinwhiteduke; 02-03-2013 at 07:50 PM.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:46 PM
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Yeah I will have to lock it out then. Mine only goes to 14. I have the Mallory hyfire box 6al. I assume I still want the wire going to the 12v switched power? As for power valve 4.5 will be close?
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2013, 07:53 PM
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cam swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by nova68 View Post
The cam I ordered is not alot smaller no, but the lobe seperation is 112 vs my old cams 106. So I know that will have a pretty big effect on getting going. Should move the powerband down also correct? Yes i understand I will give up peak power for a flat power band. I know the cam powerbands are based on a 350, which according to comp cam is 1800-6200 for the l79 plus. So I figured 2000ish for the 327? That why I said 2400 converter? Correct me If i am wrong. It is still not to late to cancel my order.
the wider lobe center moves the power up,not down.you will likely see no difference
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nova68 View Post
Yeah I will have to lock it out then. Mine only goes to 14. I have the Mallory hyfire box 6al. I assume I still want the wire going to the 12v switched power? As for power valve 4.5 will be close?
Ya the hyfire should be the same. Read the wiring directions.
It will be a 3.5" or a 4.5" power valve.
Do not buy less than a 10" 3500 stall converter for this cam in a 327.
Does not need to be a mega $$ race converter. Just a decent 10" 3500+ stall.
You get what you pay for.
B&M ATI, Jeg's XHD,,, TCI, Hugh's etc.
Do not be shy with the converter stall for this cam in a 327.
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