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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2013, 08:00 PM
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jegs xhd 3200-3500 or jegs 3500-3800?
I am going to cancel cam order for now.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2013, 09:30 PM
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are you racing the car? just wondering,if you have a big stall for maximum launch
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:27 PM
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I think he's just street'in the car??

Duke
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:47 AM
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90 percent street 10 percent strip. probably run it couple times a summer at the local track
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:53 AM
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If you are not a serious racer,then do not buy a big converter.
you should be specific and detailed as to the finished product you want. same thing for rear gear set
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:09 AM
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I have 4.10s right now(already said that) and also said I wanted a mostly cruiser with with few runs on the strip. I am going to try the lock out timing and see what happens. I called mallory they can make my dizzy do 10 degrees mechanical advance if I have too. Also they make a start retard box for under 300.
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:40 AM
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I know you have 4.10s,I read that already. I dont think you need to be that aggressive with the distributor with that little cam. I would first try the idle settings with the timing at 18 ish initial. I run 18 at idle with a bigger cam,but I do need a little more.I just have my total capped at 34 for now. You can do the same and test drive with pull power pulls set at 34 degrees and 36 to make sure there is no pinging.
If after doing both tests you will know where the static needs to be and where the total needs to be.Simple,pull distributor and find someone with a distributor machine.
with 4.1 gears the actual time spent at wot and under 3,000 rpm is short,so your part throttle tuning is all you need to worry about. The 2400 rpm converter means that the only part throttle rpm range is 2,000 - 3,000. At full power acceleration its only between 2400 rpm and 3000 rpm that you have to worry about ignition curve. If you race the car a lot,then maybe invest in a race converter.
I would spend time on the carb and fine tune the A/F ratio. you pick the numbers you want,IE; 13:1 at wot for good power,good plug life and perky acceleration,or 12:1 at wot for more power but not as good plug life and not as perky at part throttle.
If you tune on a Mustang or similar dyno you can tune the car for both.
You would do this by making primary throttle runs(disable secondary linkage) and tune for 12.8-13:1 a/f then make a few pull with the secondaries re attached and aim for 12:1 a/f
you might drive the car awhile then go back and retune again.Its not always maximum power that makes the best driver.You want to enjoy all parts of driving the car.The street driving is 98% of the use you will have for it.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2013, 09:42 AM
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Select the converter with the higher ratee stall speed for the two.
They will "drive" the same. The actual stall behind a 327 will be on the low side
of the advertized stall speeds. (less engine torque='s a lower real stall)
Takes about a week to get used to a stall but they drive just fine on the street.
You never want to match a high stall up with a hiway gear.
The 4.10's are just right. Reports are the the Jegs XHD converters work really good.
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Old 02-04-2013, 11:27 AM
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Order Jeg's #555-60431

The max stall speed will only be realized at the drag strip when launching from a stop, on slicks.
The "flash stall" (the actual stall speed you see when launching the car) will be on the lower end of the rated stall scale for any converter as it is only a 327 and only makes so much engine torque.

This converter wil drive very nicely on the street in your Nova and allows the cammed 327 to
perform like it should and idle correctly in gear and accelerate from a stop properly, even at small throttle inputs. Again max stall is only achived at max WOT with maximum tire traction.
So don't get all up about it. Drive it.

Then get some sticky Mickey Thompson ET Street tires (8.5x26x15) and some Nova traction bars and go to the strip with it.
You will see just how good a lil 327 Nova can run.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-04-2013 at 11:48 AM.
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