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327 small block Chevy.

10K views 55 replies 9 participants last post by  64nailhead 
#1 ·
Just got a 327 out of a 62 truck. I'm wondering which vehicles can I put that in and which vehicle is the best to put it in. Gonna build towards street/strip. Wanna make a lot of torque because torque wins races. Thanks for the help guys.
 
#40 ·
Those numbers are just core plate and core box numbers, and a repeat of the last 3 numbers of the block casting code.

No factory cranks were ever 4340, that is strictly an aftermarket thing. Factory SBC cranks were 1053 carbon steel, and usually Tufftrided(heat treated) for hardness.

Unless this is a 1000 hp turbocharged build, you don't need 4340, the stocker is good up into the 600-650 HP range, pretty much all the block will withstand anyway. Have it magnafluxed for a possible crack, and have it reground if it is deemed usable.
 
#42 ·
#46 ·
Dart is a good head, but 230cc intake runners are way too big for a 327 unless you are going to turn it 11,000 rpm. 230cc is considered a big head on 400 inch and bigger small blocks.

200cc is going to be a good big head on a 327, if you expect it to make any lowish to midrange torque at all.

Automatic or stick is your choice, just know that at the 400 hp level and above, the stick shift set-up is going to be roughly double or a bit more than the cost of a built automatic trans and good stall converter.
 
#47 ·
Before you pick any parts determine whether you're going to run the turbo or not. The 400 HP NA build and 500 HP boosted build are not the same - trust me. Either way, I don't see the turbo build getting done on your budget. And a 400 HP 327 NA is going to take a knowledgeable builder, the correct parts and a good tune. Both are a tall (lofty) order IMO and not for the novice - take it from a novice with a 500+HP turbo'd 327 in the driveway.

Build the 383, you'll be happier in the end. Good luck- Jim
 
#49 ·
Problem is, you aren't going to find anyone making a stroker kit for the small journal 327 block....Speed-O-Motive was the last company I knew that had one, and they have been out of business for several years now. The kit in HCompton's post above isn't going to fit your block's main journal size.

Current stroker kits everyone offers now are for the large journal block.

The forged steel small journal crank can be welded and reground if it isn't cracked, it will need to be magnaflux tested for cracks before considering welding.

You could spend a bunch and have the main journals ground down on a large journal stroker crank to fit the small journal 327 block, but then you are also going to run into the problem of the block main bulkheads are not clearanced for the counterweight diameter that is larger on the large journal cranks....you'll have days of grinding on the block to make it all fit. :nono:
 
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#50 ·
do you suggest cutting or grinding the crank to fit the stroker? This is my background. I went to wyotech for 3 months but had to drop out, and about 3 years of trial and error in my garage. I can build the motor if I know what parts need to go together and run without problems. Could you suggest all the parts I should get besides the turbo, my buddy has that covered? I don't have a budget because it's going to take a year or two to actually get it on the road. I'll throw a couple hundred here and there until it's complete. That being said, if you could suggest the parts to build a complete street and strip that runs 10.0 or cheap race fuel ratio that would be greatly appreciated. I don't care about mpg either. Thanks
 
#54 ·
A 383 would be optimal with respect to your original post. Yes, with a small journal i'd look to finding a large journal 327 or a 350 block if your goal is to build a 383. Honestly though, before i really got out there in a serious way, i'd make a firm decision on what you want and where you want to go. Building up a 327 has been thrown out there, building a 383 out there, and now a big block out there. Settle on something first then build/go from there. A 327 can make some power and unless i've missed it, no one's thrown out a rear gear. You wanted torque, so the motor is not the only thing to consider as a low rear gear will add to that need. I'd think some more and decide before you throw that 327 block on CL or elsewhere.
 
#55 ·
if you're looking to turbo and starting from scratch without a car i'd opt for an LS series engine.
-iron block from a truck or something
-6 bolt mains and such
-has better heads
-factory roller cam
-lots of after market support

for a turbo, were you planning on going carbureted or efi? carb'd turbo set ups can leave some to be desired.

N.A. manifolds for the LS seem expensive but for what you dont have to spend elsewhere it's worth it.

we built a strong small journal 327 sbc with AFR heads and a roller cam and the all the goodies. it wasn't cheap. made 431 hp on the dyno and 388 tq. spun to around 6500 rpm with a hydraulic roller cam. it's a nice engine but we already had an old car that it was going into and it was a lot more than your budget.

i built a 406 sbc for my pick up truck. AFR heads, roller cam, all that stuff. makes great power, but if i did it over again i'd go with the LS. the cost vs. return just doesn't seem to be there in the older sbc's any more. dont get me wrong, you can make great power (we have as well as many others) i just think the return is diminishing. especially when you get into power adders. the new stock stuff is pretty hard to compete with.

if you arent tied down to an older car or set up, i'd start with a newer engine.

just my thoughts.
 
#56 ·
OP has another thread going for a BB build that is still going to be financially challenged. You are spot on with the turbo'd LS build though - it's in his budget of $3500-4000. And if somehow the LS motor goes kaflooey, donor 4.8's and 5.3's can be found for $500 all day.
 
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