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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2012, 04:08 PM
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I'll try to get a vac gauge today, Somethings way off though, hopefully it's vacuum, when I'm timing it I have to turn the dist as far as it will go counterclockwise to idle smooth but it still dies on acceleration.

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Old 09-01-2012, 06:15 PM
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just picked up the gauge, it tests fuel and vacuum pressure, whats the most accurate way to test these and what should they be at?

thanks!
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Old 09-01-2012, 08:08 PM
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did the crankcase vacuum test according to the instructions, warmed the engine up then unplugged the HEI power, plugged the pcv valvle, and hooked the tester up to the passenger side and then the driver side vac lines on the front of the carb, the wiggled a tiny bit not even enough to register.

i checked the manifold at idle, not sure i got a good seal on the rubber connector but it read about 4-5

the dist read about 4 at idle.

still cant acclerate with out it dying, lm thinking bad carb gasket or something internal or intake leak somewhere?
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:38 PM
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327 spark plug issues

IDK, Something is very wrong to have that little of vacuum. How old is this motor? Like you said get some carburetor cleaner and spray along the intake and then along the carburetor base. Front and backside of intake too. Can you do this one more time, pull #1 plug,1st plug drivers side? As soon as you feel air pushing your finger stop, don't go all the way past. Where is the line on the harmonic balancer located? It should be in the scale area. Take a flashlight and get an exact reading. If not near the scale find a 1/2" wooden dowel rod that will fit in the spark plug hole. You may have to rotate the motor backwards. Turn the motor over clockwise with a socket and breaker bar easy until you feel the piston hit the dowel rod. Is the balancer line near the scale now? I need these answers before going forward anymore. If you start it up again plug the vacuum gauge in the port on the right side. This is the full time vacuum port where the distributor vacuum line goes.

Last edited by cdminter59; 09-01-2012 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 09-01-2012, 11:12 PM
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I re-did the carb gaskets and added the spacer, then I heard and found a major intake leak, it was really loud, it was a rectangle piece that was blocking off a port under the carb on the passenger side, the gasket was complete toast, It fired right up but still acted the same way. I'll pull the #1 plug and do all that tomorrow, it's getting late and I'm sure my neighbors hate me! But at least that should solve the vac issues, I'll know tomorrow.

Thanks for all your advice, hopefully we're getting closer to the answer!
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Old 09-01-2012, 11:33 PM
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Pulled the plug and did the finger, when I felt the air that line is past the scale, maybe 14* after top dead, the scale stops at 8. Just pulled the cap and the rotor is pointing at number 6! 11 o'clock standing in the front of the car. Is that rotor in wrong!?
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Old 09-01-2012, 11:49 PM
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The rotor only goes on one way.
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Old 09-02-2012, 12:58 AM
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327 spark plug issues

Alright do it with the 1/2 dowel rod or anything that is 1/2 round. Another way to find TDC is to pull the driver's valve cover. Turn the motor over watching the first two valves. The first one is the exhaust valve. Watch as you are turning the motor over the exhaust valve will (under the spring) go down and back up then the intake valve will go down and back up. Install the dowel in the hole and turn engine clockwise until you feel the piston hit. Your line on the balancer should be very close to zero. If not let me know how far it is off. BTW do you have to change intake gaskets????

Last edited by cdminter59; 09-02-2012 at 01:07 AM.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2012, 08:01 PM
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Did the dowel in number 1, it looks to be at 12* BTC and the rotor is pointing at number 1 now as well.
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Old 09-02-2012, 08:02 PM
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I haven't changed the intake gaskets, I can though if needed.
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Old 09-02-2012, 08:23 PM
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The balancer did roll to 8* BTC easily without turning the rotor.
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Old 09-02-2012, 09:17 PM
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327 spark plug issues

If you have a blown intake gasket you definitely need to change it as soon as possible. After you finish do another vacuum test. Do you have a vacuum port screwed into the intake?
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Old 09-02-2012, 09:33 PM
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I'll do another vacuum test in the morning, there's a plugged vacuum port on the intake behind the carb, none being used.as far as the balancer check and rotor check is anything else I should regarding that?
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2012, 08:24 AM
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You need to stop and focus on the series of events. You said it ran fine before you changed the plugs. After you changed them you could not get it to start. You also said you were not sure of the voltage at the HEI.
Well from the first statement you should determine that you either had the wrong plugs or you got some wires back on wrong. Personally I think both. If the car was running prior to changing the plugs, why would you pull the distributor or mess with the carb.
You have changed so many things now it is very difficult to pin down the issue.
I would start by getting the right plugs, R44 would be my choice, check the firing order, I bet you have 5 and 7 reversed, this is a real common issue. Set the timing, 12 BTDC at idle with dist vacuum disconnected if you have it. Once you have all this, you can move forward if it does not fix your issue.
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Old 09-03-2012, 09:02 AM
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327 spark plug issues

Is your intake a cast iron GM intake? Did it have the provision for the hot air choke? That's the one that fits down in the intake. It has like a coil of band metal and when it heats up pushes the rod up to open the butterfly. Any way you have an Edelbrock carburetor with an electric choke now correct. Why I am asking these questions is to find out if you have a heat passage that goes through the intake under the carburetor. That may be the rectangular piece of metal you saw, stock intake gaskets have these. Take a look at this set of Felpro intake gaskets it does away with the crossover since its not needed anyway. Fel-Pro Q1205 - Fel-Pro Performance Intake Manifold Gasket Sets - Show All - SummitRacing.com. Don't forget to check the teeth on the cam and distributor while you have got the intake off. With the intake back on do the check on post #53 to make sure timing chain has not jumped a tooth. Skip the part using the dowel. When the intake valve closes look how far the balancer line is before zero. Go ahead and line the mark to zero, does either of the valves move on #1 cylinder? If both are still closed good! Set the timing mark to 10* drop in distributor. If it don't drop all the way down have someone bump the motor over while holding pressure on it so it don't jump up. Double check bring it back up on #1 set the timing on 10* again by hand. The tower that the rotor is pointing at start wiring with #1 spark plug wire clockwise 18436572. Fire it up and take a vacuum reading from the intake port. Hope you have 15 or more. If you want you can call me at 804-541-7883 if you if are working on it and have a problem. Here is an article on tuning with a vacuum gauge. Classic Inlines - Tuning with a Vacuum Gage

Last edited by cdminter59; 09-03-2012 at 09:13 AM.
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