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, actually it one of the kids old mattress that has been in the garage since they left for school. We never got around to throwing it out. When we got the 34 project going I knew eventually it would come in handy. After tomorrow it going in the trash for sure.Vince |
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All this attention to even the underside of the body would make me not want to drive it... Looks great bro.. I am looking foward to it all having shiny paint on it too
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Now this is a guy on a mission!
He kicks the wife out of the bedroom so he can use the mattress in the paint booth and store painted parts in the bedroom. Never met Vice but you just know you would like him! |
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Since that Deep Molton Red is a Metallic (or Pearl) are you worried at all that the paint won't have been sprayed in 'one session'. Guess by now you've had plenty of pactice making it match. That would scare me to death...
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Has not been a problem yet. The color is real dark, almost a maroon so it is easier to match than a lighter metallic IMO. Vince |
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Vince |
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Just read the whole thread again from start to finish. Now I can hardly wait for the next post to see how it all turns out. That paint color is real sweet.
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Vince |
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To Barry
Hey Barry, you weren't kidding about PPG DCU2002 being durable. Wet sanding that stuff is like sanding concrete with newspaper
. Got all the runs sanded out, but I sanded through the clear on the bottom of the body in a small place about the size of a quarter. The owner of the paint booth talked me into wet sanding the entire bottom, fixing the sand through then re-clear the whole bottom. He also talked me into flipping the body on to it's top so we would have less chance for runs...sounded good to me. I will be going by every day after work for a few hours to get it ready to re-clear hopefully Friday. Then I can post some pics, didn't want to post any of the runs .Vince |
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Vince,
That is the one drawback to 2002 is you need to do your wet-sanding in first couple of days or it can start buffing like a rock. RUNS: Spray the same as you are but jack the air pressure up 5lbs to start, don't change the way your shooting it. If you need an extra 10lbs than do it but normally 5-8 will take care of problem. Also (true with any high grade clear) If you spray a panel with the first coat and See a foot long dry streak- DO Not spray that spot again as that is a sure run coming up. Leave it and it will be taken care of with second coat. Don't be ashame of the runs, if you don't have any your not spraying wet enough or your painting at a dealership matching OEM paint. Two ways to paint a car and you don't want this cherry looking like a new GM or Ford paint job! Last edited by BarryK; 05-29-2006 at 01:38 PM. |
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Vince... Don't let the runs bother you. I am getting almost as good at getting rid of them as I am at getting them. They are easier to get rid of and have a good finish, than "dry" spots are.
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Buffing is a pain
Got the underside of the coupe painted, not perfect but totally acceptable. Waited a few days and flipped the body back over and it is now on my homemade rolling painting/bodywork frame. Now I will be concentrating on getting the top side of the body ready to paint, got to spray a lot of primer and sand most of it off though before that happens.
In the meantime at home I have been wet sanding one of my painted rear fenders. I picked the one that had the most orange peel in it to do first. I wet sanded it with 600 until all the orange peel was gone then shot four more coats of DCU2002 clear on it. I then blocked it with 1000 followed by 1500 and finished up with 2000. I started buffing it and I can vouch for one thing Barry said about DCU2002, it is hard as concrete. My foam pads and 3M buffing compound will hardly touch it. I had to drag out an old wool buffing pad I had left over from when I repainted my 69 Camaro to make any progress whatsoever. I worked on that rear fender most of the day today and I am still not finished with it yet. This color sanding a buffing may wind up breaking me .Vince |
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| Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos |
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