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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2006, 05:32 AM
adtkart@aol.com
 
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I have never used that product. Is it possible that it is so hard to sand and buff because you waited so long, or do you have to wait with that?

Aaron

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2006, 06:36 AM
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vince , if you enjoy buffing as much i do you should try the 3000 pad from 3m. i start at 1000,1200,1500,2000,2500 and then the 3000 pad. what use to take hours now polishes in minutes. i came from the days of 600 wet and buff. hard for old dogs to learn new tricks but this progression really does work. get your jobber to get you a demo on it. the da is much lighter than the buffer cant wait to see your car together. maybe i'll catch you at a run around here somewhere.
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2006, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adtkart
I have never used that product. Is it possible that it is so hard to sand and buff because you waited so long, or do you have to wait with that?
Aaron
That is some of it, but I am waiting several weeks or more for the clear to fully cure. Sometimes when you wet sand and buff right after clearing it looks smooth for about a week then it starts to look uneven again as the clear cures totally.

Vince
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2006, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
vince , if you enjoy buffing as much i do you should try the 3000 pad from 3m. i start at 1000,1200,1500,2000,2500 and then the 3000 pad. what use to take hours now polishes in minutes. i came from the days of 600 wet and buff. hard for old dogs to learn new tricks but this progression really does work. get your jobber to get you a demo on it. the da is much lighter than the buffer cant wait to see your car together. maybe i'll catch you at a run around here somewhere.
Got some part numbers on that system?

Vince
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2006, 07:25 AM
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they are the trizact hook-it foam pads.
p3000, pn 02075 6" pn 02077 3 "
when i finally did the progression from 100 all the way to 3000 it was a breeze to polish. don't skip a grit like i was. makes it way easier. todays paint just does not buff. you can polish it but cutting it with compound and pads does not work very well. high speed buffing super heats the surface in my opinion and hazes the finish. i buff at low speed.
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2006, 07:44 AM
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Only thing I am worried about using the DA is not getting the surface as flat as block sanding. Am I reading you right, are you using the DA to first sand after clearing? Could you please explain your entire sanding/buffing proccess for clear?

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Vince
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2006, 07:53 AM
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no. like you did i hard block with 600 before final clear. after final clear i use 1000 on a hard block then move to the da for the finish . by the time i start with 1200 da paper it should be flat. 1200 and finer does little to flatten it. 1200 up is to get rid of scratches . the 3000 foam pad will actualy polish it some but there will be no scratches to buff out. once the clear cures there will be little cutting done with a buffer. i even tried superbuff on a wool pad. try this sanding system on a part and see what you think.
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2006, 08:24 AM
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Super paint job

What air pressure did you have at the gun when you put on the clear coat?
Also tip size? Same pressure for the base coat?
Paint job looks GREAT.
Thanks Dan
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2006, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impalaman63
What air pressure did you have at the gun when you put on the clear coat?
Also tip size? Same pressure for the base coat?
Paint job looks GREAT.
Thanks Dan
For base I am running about 30-35psi with a 1.4mm tip. The clear is taking about 40-45psi with the same tip. I tried spraying the clear at the same psi as the base, but was getting too much orange peel. Upon Barry's tip I raised the psi and am getting a much smoother clear spray. The air adjustment on the HVLP gun is wide open in both cases.

Vince
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2006, 09:14 PM
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Buffing progress

Made a startling discovery this evening. After last evenings buffing session it was a dramatic improvement. You get a much quicker shine buffing after a good rub down with 2000 . When you try and buff out 1000 or even 1500 grit scratches as hard as DCU2002 is, it is a real chore and not much reward for the effort. I was hesitant to do much more wet sanding on the fender, but after thinking about it all day today at work I decided to go for it. I went over the entire fender with 2000 wet until it was a consistent dull color with no coarser grit scratches showing. I then put a little 3M Perfect-It compound on my wool buffing bonnet and held my breath as I attacked it. Before my eyes almost immediately I could see the shine developing, I was beside myself on both sides . This picture is only the first compound pass, and it was getting late.

I spent the next hour wet sanding my gas tank cover so I can shoot it tomorrow evening. Except for the bottom of the body it will be the first exterior piece painted with the second gallon of DBC. I want to get some color and clear on it and compare it in the sunlight with my rear fenders for color match before I start shooting the body.

Vince
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2006, 09:32 PM
adtkart@aol.com
 
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Vince... Nice shine, You really should tie your shoes before taking pictures like that.

With the 2000 grit, you are really only having to buff a lot less scratches out. If you went with 3000 or 4000, it would almost buff itself.
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2006, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adtkart
Vince
With the 2000 grit, you are really only having to buff a lot less scratches out. If you went with 3000 or 4000, it would almost buff itself.
I am realizing that now, I may try the finer 3000 or 4000 when I do the other fenders.

Vince
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2006, 09:07 AM
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More sanding and less bufing makes for a more perfect end result IMO. Vince when you try the 3000 grit and 4000 grit there will actually be a fairly good shine before you fire up the buffer and makes the buffing go so much faster.
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2006, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddbob
More sanding and less bufing makes for a more perfect end result IMO. Vince when you try the 3000 grit and 4000 grit there will actually be a fairly good shine before you fire up the buffer and makes the buffing go so much faster.
I am sure it will be lots easier to buff and polish. A friend on this board is sending me a couple to try . There are some on Ebay currently, 2 boxes of 20 each. If I like them I am going to buy some.

I realize obtaining the super flat surface in the clear is accomplished with blocking 600, 1000, then 1500. The 4000 will just improve the buffing and make it much easier but will not affect the flatness (is that a word). When I do my doors, decklid and the body that is where the 4000 is really going to save me some time and effort.

Vince
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2006, 11:06 AM
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the cool part is by using the foam pads you can see any 1000 scratches you missed. i dont scrimp on paper or the foam pads. i use a bunch. but i dont have to ride that buffer very long.
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