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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2006, 10:07 AM
shine's Avatar
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the foam pads work good for hand jiving the jams and such too.

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2006, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
the cool part is by using the foam pads you can see any 1000 scratches you missed. i dont scrimp on paper or the foam pads. i use a bunch. but i dont have to ride that buffer very long.
That advice alone is priceless... scrimping on paper is putting way too much extra work on yourself... I used to use the ***** out of paper until it was just trashed.. I figured I was saving money at a dollar per half sheet it cost me.. Eventually I learned paper is cheap cheap compared to an hour of my labor... I could buy a couple boxes of paper for a lost hour of wage.. so I do my best to waste the $**** out it now instead

lol
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2006, 06:56 PM
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A little problem

Ran into a little problem when re-clearing one of my fenders. Plan was to wet sand the first 4 coats of clear then add 4 more. This fender had been cleared about 2 months ago so you'd think the clear was cured right? Well Thursday I wet sanded it and Friday I shot some more clear on it. The below photo is the problem that cropped up. Several of the old timers in the club had various theories ranging from trash, improper cleaning, water you name it they had the cause. I even called PPG tech line and talked to a very nice guy who checked all my batch numbers of what I was using for any reported problems. This is what it did. After the first dust coat I applied the first wet coat. After about 10-15 minutes these little pin holes started appearing, so I stopped shooting clear. I was racking my brain trying to figure out what I was doing wrong. Then I decided to shoot BarryK a PM.

Told him what it was doing and gave him my home phone as well as my cel phone. Well about 20 minutes later I get a call on my cel phone and it is Barry. Folks we are very very fortunate to have this guy using our forum. After a fairly good discussion Barry said it was solvent popping. Seems I was storing the previously cleared parts in doors. When I wet sanded the fender it cut the clear which allowed trapped solvent to escape. The very next morning I had it in the paint booth and the problem surfaced. Barry's suggestion was to wet sand it again then set the fender in the sun all day. It has been in the mid nineties here in Southeast Texas, so I set it on the concrete driveway on a couple of saw horses. This afternoon Sunday I applied 4 more coats of clear with zero pin holes this time.

The results speak for themselves.

Thanks Barry
Vince
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2006, 07:09 PM
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WOW!

Hey, teach me to paint like that and we will call it even!
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2006, 07:19 PM
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Vince.... That looks great! Barry will help anyone that asks for it. He has spent alot of time on the phone and computer trying to teach me, but I think it is a lost cause. If I could get it to look as good as yours with the "pop", I'd be happy. LOL

Aaron
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2006, 12:20 PM
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Did this mainly to check for color match in direct sunlight. The gas tank cover was painted with the second gallon of DBC. I wanted to make sure the color match was good before I started laying the base on the main body. The main body is in the paint booth getting ready to shoot some K36 on it. Gonna go over it real good, probably take a few weeks of afternoons of blocking and inspecting before the base is applied. It looks like I may need a third gallon to shoot the main body, doors, deck lid and 4 piece hood with 4 good coats. Probably another gallon of clear also. I won the bid on a box of Abralon 4000 grit DA disks that should cut my buffing time way down.

Vince

Last edited by 302/Z28; 06-17-2006 at 12:25 PM.
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2006, 03:07 PM
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I'm lovin it bro, looks fantastic... amazing how the solvents can set there all that time isn't it... If my memory serves me correct I have been told it can take up to 18 months for air dry paint to totally cure in some instances... depending on how the vehicle is stored, weather, coats applied etc..

and Barrys advice is priceless
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2006, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BondoKing
and Barrys advice is priceless
Amen
Vince
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2006, 11:53 AM
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I'm a newbie, however I recently block sanded 2k primer that was in my garage (90F) for 2 weeks. I block sanded it and you could smell solvents escaping during the wet sanding, but not before... I've often wondered why clearcoats de-laminate in the sun on only the sun-heated upper surfaces like they do. With this solvent-thing, maybe I now know why...
Yeah, teach me to paint like that also...!!
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2006, 07:52 AM
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Good day yesterday

Had a very productive day yesterday. Got the final coat of K36 on the body, doors, trunk, and hood pieces. getting ready to do final wet sanding....I'm getting closer people .

The attached pic is of my inner fender panels. They had been previously painted and cleared but there were several problems I had to correct. One was I did not get enough clear on the areas where the lower edged of the hood meets the top of the inner fender panels. Also I mistakenly filled the wrong hole on one of the inner fender panels where it attaches to the grill shell. In fitting the panels I had drilled several holes trying to get that perfect fit. So I had to drill another hole in my painted panels in order to fit it up to the grill shell. Patched the wrong hole with fiberglass resin, primed it, spotted on three coats of base and re-cleared with four coats of clear. It was 90 degrees in the paint booth yesterday and I was using DT895 reducer. I over reduced the mix of DCU2002 and DCX9 by about 2% and had about 45 psi on the HVLP gun. The atomization was phenomenal and the clear went on like glass.


Vince
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2006, 08:05 AM
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Those inner fender panels look great...just like everything else you have in color! Looking forward to seeing the rest in color as well. Thanks for the updating. Keep up the great work and good luck with the remainder.
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2006, 07:33 AM
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Vince,

You are doing absolutely fantastic work on that car! If my Paint comes out that good I'll be ecstatic. Can't wait to see the final result-
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2006, 08:32 AM
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Thanks guys, it's been a learning experience for me for sure . I have to give Barry credit for helping me get the clear dialed in. His tip about jacking up the psi was a major improvement
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2006, 05:47 PM
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How much hardner should I add?

Hey Vince,

The guys at the paint store said I could use their brand of synthetic hardnerQH 123)to add to the alkyd base paint, but it
doesn't say how much to use. I'm painting some vinyl pieces on my
truck and need some kind of "flex", so it won't crack later.

Thanks for the help. Geo
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2006, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggarvey
Hey Vince,

The guys at the paint store said I could use their brand of synthetic hardnerQH 123)to add to the alkyd base paint, but it
doesn't say how much to use. I'm painting some vinyl pieces on my
truck and need some kind of "flex", so it won't crack later.

Thanks for the help. Geo
What brand of paint is it? Your flex comes form a flexative additive not the hardener.

Vince
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