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347 problems?
Anyone ever have problems with a stroked ford 302? I just helped build one and I have heard there are oil control issues. Also when you rev it up the coolant wants to overflow from the radiator and when you go back to idle it settles back down. It doesn't bubble like a head gasket leaking. Any input?
Also: using edelbrock victor jr. heads and intake. |
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Actually it has a few summers of occasional driving on it now. It never seems to get hot so I am assuming the thermostat is opening. Maybe we will try the holes-in-the-thermostat technique. It does seem to act like air in the system but shouldn't it go away eventually?
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It SHOULD go away eventually for sure.
Boil some water and drop the thermostat in to check for sure, but if the car is driven and it isn't overheating you may have a different issue... What waterpump are you running? |
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We have a high volume pump we bought from Summit. I believe it is a Milodon.
I am pretty sure we got a high volume thermostat also. We have the heater outlets blocked. |
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Depending on how the 347 was made ...some can have oil control issues. It has to do with how far the pin intrudes into oil control ring area. I prefer a 331 as maximum in a 302 for longevity. The thin walls make the extra stress on a 302 done to 347 more than I feel is good for long term use. Now if it is a siamesed cylinder aftermarket block that's different, but a stock block I think the 331 is a better bet.
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That is interesting because this is a stock block and it is also .040 overbore.
I suppose this reduces longevity even more. The pin definitely protruded into the oil ring. There was a rail you install to hold the oil ring in the gap. |
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The .040 over puts the walls pretty thin..even with a stock crank. I would have to research each 347, but many of the newer ones have a shorter rod to pull the pin out of the oil ring area. That of course increase thrust pressures. I would expect this engine to have a short life if it is run very hard. I love Ford engines, but a stock 302 has it's limitations. The big stroker crank in the 60s ( when the blocks were a little heavier than now) was a 331 using a reground 292 Y-block crank. Although that's not neccesary anymore with the supply of aftermarket ones, I still think 331 is about the max reliable. Was this a new stroker or an older one? If it was used, that may be why it was sold. If it is a street engine, it may live alright but I suspect oil issues will arise. If it's for racing be prepared to build a new one, because I don't think that combination will last long under hard usage.
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It is a 70 block and the rod length is 5.4 inches. It is a street/strip mostly street mustang. I suppose nitrous is a dangerous thing for this engine then?
The cylinder walls are thin and would flex a lot maybe to point of breaking. Cylinder flexing would create oil consumption issues also. It is too bad we had to go to .040 because we were trying to get as much torque out of the light 302 block that we could. Now it has weak cylinder walls. |
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I believe all those things apply here. Nitrous on an engine already at it's limit is a dangerous( read costly) maneuver. The cylinder wall flex is one, but really the bottom end is at it's limit when you get to around 600HP and that would probably be approached fairly easily with that combination and a good nitrous system.Prior to the introduction of the heavy duty aftermarket blocks I saw several high powered 302s( of varying sizes) split down the middle when under the bottle.
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That is good to know as we are already making good power. If only aftermarket blocks weren't so expensive.
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Started the engine last weekend and it seems it has to be head gaskets leaking.
While it was been cranked over from sitting a long time we had the rad cap off and when it fired it shot coolant out the top. There is not really any other explanation. I will be sure to use a felpro gasket this time. |
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