347 problems? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2008, 03:44 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 47
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
347 problems?

Anyone ever have problems with a stroked ford 302? I just helped build one and I have heard there are oil control issues. Also when you rev it up the coolant wants to overflow from the radiator and when you go back to idle it settles back down. It doesn't bubble like a head gasket leaking. Any input?
Also: using edelbrock victor jr. heads and intake.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2008, 03:50 PM
Crazy Mopar Guy's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: HotRodCity, Canada
Posts: 456
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by chevyv8_power
Anyone ever have problems with a stroked ford 302? I just helped build one and I have heard there are oil control issues. Also when you rev it up the coolant wants to overflow from the radiator and when you go back to idle it settles back down. It doesn't bubble like a head gasket leaking. Any input?
Also: using edelbrock victor jr. heads and intake.
Is the coolant issue on a fresh engine?
Air pockets in the block and water passages can have that effect.... we would punch 1/8" or 1/4" holes in the thermostat to allow the water to fill the engine better, or let it cool down and refill. Is your T stat opening?

I've built many Ford Windsor engines, never had any oiling issues with them... maybe some of the more Ford oriented builders have some insight that I don't...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2008, 03:59 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 47
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Actually it has a few summers of occasional driving on it now. It never seems to get hot so I am assuming the thermostat is opening. Maybe we will try the holes-in-the-thermostat technique. It does seem to act like air in the system but shouldn't it go away eventually?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2008, 04:01 PM
Crazy Mopar Guy's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: HotRodCity, Canada
Posts: 456
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
It SHOULD go away eventually for sure.

Boil some water and drop the thermostat in to check for sure, but if the car is driven and it isn't overheating you may have a different issue...

What waterpump are you running?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2008, 04:15 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 47
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
We have a high volume pump we bought from Summit. I believe it is a Milodon.
I am pretty sure we got a high volume thermostat also.
We have the heater outlets blocked.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2008, 07:53 PM
woodz428's Avatar
Troll Hunter
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Philo,Il
Posts: 2,702
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Depending on how the 347 was made ...some can have oil control issues. It has to do with how far the pin intrudes into oil control ring area. I prefer a 331 as maximum in a 302 for longevity. The thin walls make the extra stress on a 302 done to 347 more than I feel is good for long term use. Now if it is a siamesed cylinder aftermarket block that's different, but a stock block I think the 331 is a better bet.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2008, 09:37 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 47
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
That is interesting because this is a stock block and it is also .040 overbore.
I suppose this reduces longevity even more. The pin definitely protruded into the oil ring. There was a rail you install to hold the oil ring in the gap.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2008, 06:18 AM
woodz428's Avatar
Troll Hunter
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Philo,Il
Posts: 2,702
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The .040 over puts the walls pretty thin..even with a stock crank. I would have to research each 347, but many of the newer ones have a shorter rod to pull the pin out of the oil ring area. That of course increase thrust pressures. I would expect this engine to have a short life if it is run very hard. I love Ford engines, but a stock 302 has it's limitations. The big stroker crank in the 60s ( when the blocks were a little heavier than now) was a 331 using a reground 292 Y-block crank. Although that's not neccesary anymore with the supply of aftermarket ones, I still think 331 is about the max reliable. Was this a new stroker or an older one? If it was used, that may be why it was sold. If it is a street engine, it may live alright but I suspect oil issues will arise. If it's for racing be prepared to build a new one, because I don't think that combination will last long under hard usage.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2008, 12:01 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 47
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
It is a 70 block and the rod length is 5.4 inches. It is a street/strip mostly street mustang. I suppose nitrous is a dangerous thing for this engine then?
The cylinder walls are thin and would flex a lot maybe to point of breaking. Cylinder flexing would create oil consumption issues also. It is too bad we had to go to .040 because we were trying to get as much torque out of the light 302 block that we could. Now it has weak cylinder walls.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2008, 12:14 PM
woodz428's Avatar
Troll Hunter
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Philo,Il
Posts: 2,702
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I believe all those things apply here. Nitrous on an engine already at it's limit is a dangerous( read costly) maneuver. The cylinder wall flex is one, but really the bottom end is at it's limit when you get to around 600HP and that would probably be approached fairly easily with that combination and a good nitrous system.Prior to the introduction of the heavy duty aftermarket blocks I saw several high powered 302s( of varying sizes) split down the middle when under the bottle.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2008, 12:22 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 47
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
That is good to know as we are already making good power. If only aftermarket blocks weren't so expensive.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2008, 10:01 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 47
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Started the engine last weekend and it seems it has to be head gaskets leaking.
While it was been cranked over from sitting a long time we had the rad cap off and when it fired it shot coolant out the top. There is not really any other explanation. I will be sure to use a felpro gasket this time.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Olds 98 Ignition Module Problems awbazar Electrical 1 01-12-2004 06:42 AM
beater car problems 02 0n 20s Engine 2 11-01-2003 06:53 PM
Light Problems like crazy ponybuster Electrical 7 10-14-2003 12:12 PM
302 VS 347 Really a horsepower difference?????? lakecityg Engine 12 07-13-2003 08:20 PM
LT1 knocking problems gollygwagen Engine 0 04-23-2003 05:52 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:10 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.