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Old 02-17-2003, 11:46 AM
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Post 35 Chevy 3 Window Coupe

I have a 35 Chevy 3 WIndow Coupe. Anyone know of any pictures or diagrams that show how the car bolts together? I have the body, frame, doors, trunk lid, hood, fenders but no rockers, running boards or rear fenders. I'm not sure what the rockers/running boards looked like or how they bolted to the body and frame. A also don't know if there are any other body parts that I am missing....maybe tail pan, wheel wells???

This is the first street rod that I have worked on so I'm a little clueless!

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Old 02-17-2003, 12:00 PM
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PaulM. Welcome to street rodding. Just like taking a puzzle and putting it together. You didn't say if you have the grill or not. Can you take a picture of your 35 and post it. There's two kinds of 35's the early kind that the grill looks like the 34, and the later kind that the body was starting to look like the 36 and the grill look like the 36 also.
If you could take some pictures and e-mail me the pictures i can see what all you have.

BTW: I hope you have the inner window moldings. If you don't they are real hard to find.
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Old 02-17-2003, 12:13 PM
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Thanks for the reply!!!

I made a cheesy website to hold some pics:

My 35 Chevy
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Old 02-17-2003, 12:33 PM
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Looking at your pictures on your link. Looks like the body has been channeled( body sitting over the frame). If your going to go with the restore look You'll need to get the body sitting ontop the frame.
For your fenders and running boards, you'll will need front fender brackets and running board brackets.
Looks like you have the Mustang II front already in it.

Make a list on what you want to do with it.
chopped?
chassis.. what setup
motor, trans, rearend

If you want to know what some 35's look like. go to a search engine and type in 35 chevy coupe. That should give you some idea's on what look your after.
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Old 02-17-2003, 12:46 PM
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Thanks!!

It was indeed channeled when I got it. I don't know that I want it channeled or chopped as I want to be able to comfortably sit in it. I am not super tall(6'1"), but I want to be able to easily get in and out and drive it.

I will probably begin by setting it up not channeled or chopped. I have to build the interior framing for the body so that it mounts on top of the frame. Once I get it setup so that the body framing is in place and the mounting points on top of the frame I'll see how much room I have. If I feel that I can chop it at that point maybe I will.

I'm not sure whether I should stay with the rear leafs or put in a 4 link. I have no clue as to the Pros and Cons of either. I have a 383/2004R ready to go in the car so once I get the body setup I can put the engine/trans in to mock up the mounts. There is a 1968 camaro 10 bolt(8.2) rear in it. I'll probably change that to a later 8.5 10 bolt.

I have also heard that the mustang II frontend may not allow the fenders to be mounted correctly? I've heard that the wheels may not clear or be centered in the wheel openings?

So originally the body did indeed bolt to the top of the frame? The rockers must have bolted somehow under the doors to the body and to the side or top of the frame? The running boards must have also bolted to the side of the frame? The front fenders probably bolted to the top of the frame as well?
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Old 02-17-2003, 01:02 PM
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If your Mustang II is put in correctly the front fender should miss it.
On the 34 chevy sedan i had, it had leafs springs. On the 34 chevy cabriolet i have 4 bar with coilovers. If you going with airrides go with 4 bar rearend.
Your rear fenders bolt to the body, running boards bolt to the body and to the front and rear fenders. the front fenders bolt to the top of the frame. You'll need two brackets for the front fenders one that runs along the top and one that runs behind the tire.(between the tire and running boards).
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Old 02-17-2003, 01:09 PM
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Thanks again!

I don't know what "airrides" are. If you have any pictures of the mounting points that you described that would be helpful, but your description at least gets me in the ballpark!
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Old 02-17-2003, 05:51 PM
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Air rides are air bags vice springs. A little bit of a rage, but may be slowing down due to "flats". Air Ride Technology makes a very good 4 bar set up that you can use either air bags or Coil over shocks, which I prefer. This is called a triangulated 4 bar that keeps the rear axle centered and does not allow any twisting under your 383 torque when you punch it. I'll take it over parallel leaf springs any day. You probably want to make up you mind on the rear suspension before doing too much of your frame boxing and cross members. You will need to locate a crossmember for shock/ airbag or coil over setup and make sure you are boxed correctly for the triangulated 4 bar
mounts. Didn't think the Chevy had rocker panels per se. The bottom of the door just clears the running board, I think. If you body has been channeled, I like it. I have seen so many choped coups rendered almost undrivable, and since you were considering your height, sounds like you may have had some previous experience with this. It sure gets old having to scrunch down to see out the wind shield!!

Trees
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Old 02-18-2003, 03:06 AM
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Paul, Before you start working on the frame. you need to support the body. Put the body back together, making sure the doors align up and shut good and trunk. Then tac weld some metal inside to keep the body from twisting. The you can take the body apart again. That way you know your body is true and not twisted. It's hard to build a chassis with the body twisted.
Tec weld some sq tubing 1" from the front of the doors to the rear of the doors, Then across the body(width wise) from the back of the door to the other door. Thsi will help keep the body from twisting.
Then when your done with the chassis you take that sq tubing and put it up and under the dash for support. for your a/c unit, fuse box, wiper motor, etc.
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Old 02-25-2003, 09:15 AM
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Paul,
First of all, welcome to the club!
What you have purchased, very cheaply I hope, is a 1935 Chevy Standard Coupe, or what is left of one.
In order for you to truly enjoy this first rodding experience, I would recommend building this "car" as a good little hot rod "as is". You are missing so much hard-to-find and expensive materials it would make much more sense to proceed with what you have and finish your first car rather than getting all bound up in time and money trying to make your channeled fenderless coupe into a "silk purse"!
Please understand I'm being realistic here, not pessimistic or mean-spirited. You have the bare-bones makings of a neat little rod but don't get lost in making this a real "restoration" type project. Leave that for the next car you get, get experience putting this little car together, then go for the gold!
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Old 02-25-2003, 10:17 AM
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A little education so you know where you're at!
Your body has no structure at this point. What you have is the body skin with virtually no original wood structure, 2 doors with minimal wood left in them, a decklid that appears to be virtually wood-free.
(the original body was structured in wood, i.e. there was a wooden framework over which the body steel was fitted and welded together and nailed and bolted to the structure)
It appears you have an original frame with a Pinto/MustangII front suspension and some kind of late model rearend.
OK. Let's begin. First, remove what's left of your body very carefully and sit it aside. Cross measure your frame for "square and level", Put it up on jackstand on a level floor for this measurement. By the way try to have the room to do this initial phase of the project without having to move the frame or body parts until you're done.
Once your frame is confirmed level and square, put the door skins back on your body where they belong. Put some thin wood spacers around the door opening to make the body uniformly spaced around the doors. When you have achieved this on both sides--stop, and make a temporary "rocker panel" of thinwall tubing to run between the lower cowl panel and the rear quarter at the door post. Attach this by sheet metal screws or nuts and bolts. Recheck your alignment on both sides. If ok, make measurements from left to right at the cowl and using thinwall tubing or channel section attach braces from the top front corner of each door across and down to the bottom front corner of the other door. These braces should attach to the body metal, not the doors. Do the same thing at the rear of the door frames. Check all your measurements to be sure you're maintaining the same on both sides of the car. Now make floor braces of channel or tubing and install them from side to side at the floor level, staring at the front of the cowl and working to the rear at the door post. Continue to the rear adjusting your crossbracing to allow proper measurement and appearance of sheet metal. You'll need a couple x-braces in the truck area too. Now if everything is measured and done right, your body should be square and straight. If you have come this far without contemplating suicide, congratulations, you've overcome the first hurdle in this mile-long race! Have a beer, or a ****tail, or some hot chocolate, and prepare for another long week's work, every night until 10 or 12 should do it for the next 2 years.
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Old 02-25-2003, 11:46 AM
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Also you might try "chevytalk.com" They have a forum on early chevy's
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Old 02-26-2003, 12:13 AM
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I have a 1935 Chev 2dr sedan in much the same shape. I'm only missing the hood & grill/panel. I've noticed that these cars sit abit like todays trucks in that the cowl/firewall is very tall, so to drive it comfortably, channeling is helpful. Be sure you support the panel just infront & behind the doors, on mine this wood frame is rotted short & the doors don't fit properly as a result. There is a large bracket that mounts on the frame to support the front fenders, which are easily large enough to clear that suspension. I haven't started on mine yet but will definately channel it, but just a small chop to the top if at all. If you need any pics of runningboards or brackets etc I can send. Don't be discouraged, the end result will be totally worth it. If you r on a tight budget use used auto parts in good shape, u can always upgrade to aftermarket stuff later. Just build it safe.
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Old 02-26-2003, 01:24 PM
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I hope you know I am trying to give you a little guidance to help you get the most out of your car building experience. I have always believed that it is better to be straight-up truthful with people than to let them "throw good money after bad" or "pearls before swine", however you want to phrase it.
You have the makings of a decent little "ratrod"-style car with enough problems for you to learn some skills before launching into a "realer" complete car.
I have had what you have....100s of times!
One of my hard-earned rules of life and hotrodding is never encourage someone to buy a pre-37 GM Product(Except for the rare steel structured 36 Chevy Std. 2 and 4dr sedans). The wood-structure is the reason for this. Picture your house without it's wooden structure...POOF...nothing but a pile of bricks, shingles, and hardware! Sounds like a pre-37 GM car to me, how about you?
This is a project you can do, but you have to accept the parameters of the material you have to work with.
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Old 05-08-2003, 12:37 PM
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Thanks for all of your input! Sorry it took over two months for me to get back here and read it.

I'm still working on the car....Mostly on the frame these days. I'm hoping to have the frame rails all patched and boxed within the next couple of weeks. It's been alot of fun so far. I'm not pushing super hard on this car as my two convertible camaros take up most of my time.
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