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-   -   35 ford pickup (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/35-ford-pickup-12261.html)

bobs 11-20-2002 02:29 PM

35 ford pickup
 
I have a 35 ford pickup and I would like to keep the original front and rear suspention. What is the down side of the original front end? Also I plan to install a 302 and c4 under the hood. The original radius rod look pencle necked. Will thay bend under the strain of a modern engine?

noriceforme 12-26-2002 11:32 AM

sorry, I had the wrong address.

[ December 26, 2002: Message edited by: noriceforme ]</p>

beetle9 12-26-2002 11:39 AM

Just a suggestion: I did a 35 2 door sedan and grafted a 73 nova front clip on. The old ford frame slid right inside the nova unit and after a little lining up and welding it and gave me instant power brakes, steering and modern suspension. Looking at using what I started with was too scary, but if you are looking for authenticity, I guess rebuilding it is where to start, but I thought you might be interested in a new clip. The width was also very close and worked well with the old fat fenders too.

good luck

Deuce 12-26-2002 06:36 PM

[quote]Originally posted by bobs:
<strong>I have a 35 ford pickup and I would like to keep the original front and rear suspention. What is the down side of the original front end? Also I plan to install a 302 and c4 under the hood. The original radius rod look pencle necked. Will thay bend under the strain of a modern engine?</strong><hr></blockquote>

I have 40 Ford coupe with the original front end under (40 has hydraulic brakes....stock). It has a 4" dropped axle and a few leaf springs removed. It rides and drives good. It has a 283 Chevrolet adapted to the 40 transmission by way of a Wilcap engine adapter.

The radius rods are plenty strong. Do not worry about them. The 302 and C4 presents a different set of problems. 1935 Ford trucks have a enclosed driveshaft. It runs from the transmission to the rear end in a torque tube. This will have to be eliminated and a open drive conversion fitted to the rear end. Then the rear end ratio is way off (4.11 -4.44) for today's driving. The radius rods must be cut and split to clear the C4.

Here is a catalog to help

<a href="http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/ford/1935-1940ford.htm" target="_blank">http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/ford/1935-1940ford.htm</a>

:D

Most folks go ahead and do away with the rear end, buy a kit and use a later rear end ( better brakes, ease of parts ect).

These folks also have a kit to install later steering boxes.

Check out the catalog :D :D :D

.

deuceguy 12-29-2002 07:37 AM

I agree with Deuce Roadster.

trees 12-30-2002 06:06 AM

Bobs, I have a 36 Ford pu that has been a street rod since 81. I put it on the road then with a 39 front end and a 3.6 Buick V6/350 turbo, and 57 Chevy rear with custom leaf springs and own fabricated mounting hard ware. Did not split the front wish bone cause the little motor could mount farther forward and tranny clearance was not a problem. After 115,000 miles of under power and sick of a sick cylinder, I put in a Mustang 2 front end kit and a 350 Chevy small block. The small block is about 2 inches longer and I did not want to cut the firewall. Now, 92,000 later, I have upgraded the front end and installed a Triangulated four bar rear suspension. I finally replaced the firewall with a Bitcin firewall, fully modified the X member, and moved the new 383 Stroker/700R4 back two inches to allow more clearance between fan and radiator. The truck drove fine with the 39 front end, but nothing like the Mustang II. Bottom line, I would forget the 40 front end and go for what will give you many years of cruising pleasure. I can send you some photos of where my suspension is today if you are interested. Unfortunately, I have very little of the early days.

Trees


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