[0trbo4myCHEVUICK]

Poor ol truck of mine. Almost brings a tear to my eye. It will see the road again soon.

[0trbo4myCHEVUICK]

So if my heads have .040 milled off, and the block has not been decked. Do I simply subtract .040 off of the stock pushrod length? What other things are there that will effect required pushrod length?I know theres a tool and a procedure to check involving a sharpie and a solid lifter. I dont have either one of those three things lol.

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by 0trbo4myCHEVUICK

So if my heads have .040 milled off, and the block has not been decked. Do I simply subtract .040 off of the stock pushrod length? What other things are there that will effect required pushrod length?I know theres a tool and a procedure to check involving a sharpie and a solid lifter. I dont have either one of those three things lol.

You really cannot just subtract the amount milled to get the accuracy needed. Using published figures to calculate the p-rod length can also give inaccurate numbers. One good way to know for sure is to physically mock up the valve train to get the correct geometry. I like to do this with an adjustable pushrod (click on image for a short piece on making one).

• Points to check
• Geometry

[0trbo4myCHEVUICK]

rock !

[0trbo4myCHEVUICK]

Originally Posted by avangeline

rom the pictues it looks like your block has new pistons in it.

new pistons, resized rods, recon crank, new voodoo roller cam, new ls7 lifters, new valve springs, new valves, guideplates, reconditioned vortec heads with 59cc chambers, new pushrods(soon), new rockers(soon), new intake, new carb (Soon)



Ive really been hoping to get a tech inspection on this build soon. I know he needs more info and in a more organized post as well. lol, I am aware the build and parts chosen are scattered throughout 7 pages of blabble and would never ask anyone to inspect the build in that fassion.

Im going to compile all of my information about this build including parts and measurments and everything else I can possibly think of into one clean organized post. Then hopefully the inspector will run through.

Im sure all the 350 builds get pretty old and boring for most of you guys, I def understand.
Doing live sound engineering for jazz music 5 or 6 nights a week gets old too me too! And audio is ONE of my top passions. Under the old school chevy of course!

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by 0trbo4myCHEVUICK

Ive really been hoping to get a tech inspection on this build soon. I know he needs more info and in a more organized post as well. lol, I am aware the build and parts chosen are scattered throughout 7 pages of blabble and would never ask anyone to inspect the build in that fassion.

Im going to compile all of my information about this build including parts and measurments and everything else I can possibly think of into one clean organized post. Then hopefully the inspector will run through.

Required data

[0trbo4myCHEVUICK]

............ Not sure what to think here.

I measured and I have 1/8"... Is that normal? I used what I had lol but I did replace the butter knife with several other straight edges in fear that the knife was not straight. I got the same measurements.

[0trbo4myCHEVUICK]

just got the voodoo cam and lifters at my door. sweet.

[0trbo4myCHEVUICK]

stroke - 3.48
Bore - .040
rods - 5.7

heads - 906casting vortec heads milled to 59cc chambers. Never been used since built.
Heads have 1.94 Intake Valves, 1.5 Exhaust Valves
All Stainless Steel 1 piece Swirled Polished Competition Series Valves.
Custom 3 Angle Valve Job
Cut for Positive type Valve Seals installed.
Screw In Studs & Guide Plates were installed.
New Valve Springs and Retainers, Keepers
Springs are good for 600 Lift Cam.
Specs 135 lbs. @ 1.750, 325 lbs @ 1.200
Springs are 1.250 diameter
No port work has been done to heads.

compression - ?????

Carb - Dont have one yet, been looking at 650cfm double pumper holley's.

Intake - Vortec Edelbrock Performer RPM
Exhuast -1-5/8 Long tube headers. (dont own yet)
dual pipes with dual mufflers (Dont own yet)
Ill probably run the pipes all the way back or dump them by the rear tires on my regular bed 1982 silverado.(not short bed)

Camshaft - •
Voodoo Hyd Roller Cam - LT1 LT4 270/278 (20080721 or 60121)
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 270/278
•Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 221/229
•Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .515/.530
•LSA/ICL: 112/106
•Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
•RPM Range: 1800-5800
Voodoo Hyd Roller Cam - LT1 LT4 270/278 - Lunati Power

LS7 lifters, 1.5 scorpion platinum series roller rockers, skip white tall fabricated aluminum center bolt valve covers.
stock crank reconditioned
stock rods reconditioned

The block is a 2 bolt main...


the head gasket that came with it is stock.. I tried to measure it and its 1/32"...

[cobalt327]

Don't measure to the bottom of the dish- measure to the flat edge (quench band in the photo below) out by the cylinder wall, dummy!

[0trbo4myCHEVUICK]

yeeeeeeeeeeehhhhhaaaaawwwwwwwwwww

[techinspector1]

I just wrote this reply on another thread, so I'll just copy and paste for you.....

Before you do anything, measure the piston deck clearance so I can compute your SCR. Here's how with cheap tools. All you need is a 6" or 12" steel rule and a set of feeler gauges. Bring any piston up to top dead center, stand the rule on edge about 1/4" from the edge of the bore (tallest part of the piston, right above the ring pack) at the 3 O'clock or 9 O'clock position as you are standing at the side of the short block. Trying to find the piston deck height with the steel rule placed at Noon or 6 O'clock will allow the piston to rock back and forth on its wrist pin and will give you false information. Stack feeler gauge blades together until you get a snug fit between the piston crown and the bottom of the rule. Hold the rule down firmly to the block deck, making absolutely certain that there is no air gap between the block deck and the bottom of the rule. Have a helper rock the crank back and forth a little clockwise and counter-clockwise to insure that the piston is at exact top dead center. Measure, re-measure and re-re-measure. I would do this on each corner of the deck, in other words on cylinders 1, 2, 7 and 8. In this way, you'll be able to find any discrepancy in the piston deck height, meaning that either the block needs to be cut to make the block decks parallel with the main bearing bore or one or more of the stack of parts (cylinder to cylinder) are not the same height. If the block decks are skewed (uphill/downhill) or not the same cylinder to cylinder, then the static compression ratio will be different from cylinder to cylinder. If you end up with an "on the edge" build with one or more cylinders making more cylinder pressure than the others, you could have detonation on those one or two cylinders while the rest of the cylinders are singing along happily. It's even possible that some of the pistons are 1.560" and some of them are 1.540". You have no idea until you measure the piston deck height as outlined above. With this simple procedure, you'll probably find that the corner to corner dimensions are off enough to make a problem. You can, of course, put the motor together without knowing any of this and it will run, but if you want the best performance from your build, you have to jump through some hoops.

My standard operating procedure includes align-honing or align-boring the main bearing bore, cutting the block decks to parallel with the main bearing bore, with the height of the deck being dependant on the stack of parts being used, along with the gasket dimensions and chamber volumes, then boring and honing the cylinders for new pistons that will work with my combination using torque plates, followed by a trial assembly where everything is measured before final assembly. That's how I do it. You can do it any way you wish or you can buy a crate motor and forget it.

[0trbo4myCHEVUICK]

Originally Posted by cobalt327

Don't measure to the bottom of the dish- measure to the flat edge (quench band in the photo below) out by the cylinder wall, dummy!

ahh jeez be right back.

[techinspector1]

Originally Posted by 0trbo4myCHEVUICK

yeeeeeeeeeeehhhhhaaaaawwwwwwwwwww

Dude, your next purchase should be a 6" dial caliper. Expect to pay about 80 bucks for a used Starrett, Brown & Sharpe or Mitutoyo on ebay. Here's an example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Starrett-120...item589928a1d9
Don't buy a digital, because every time you reach for it to use it, the battery (batteries) will be dead. Dial calipers are bulletproof.

[0trbo4myCHEVUICK]

1/15" from the raised lip to deck surface.... I was not able to measure all four corners becasue of where the block is but once I get it on a stand I will.