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  #121 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2012, 12:39 AM
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Is your state/area emissions sensitive??.

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  #122 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2012, 07:21 AM
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Is your state/area emissions sensitive??.
No. Currently, no.
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  #123 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2012, 07:22 AM
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Not for a 30 year old antique anyways.
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Old 12-21-2012, 05:33 PM
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Just got home with the motor stand, got the motor on the stand. Post measurements soon....
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  #125 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2012, 05:24 PM
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.038 on all four corners
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  #126 (permalink)  
Old 12-25-2012, 02:50 AM
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350///357 build

Well looks like you are going to have to use these Fel-Pro head gaskets. Fel-Pro Performance Head Gaskets Q1094 - SummitRacing.com. With these gaskets your quench will be .053. Could be worst. Static compression is 9.701 and DCR is 7.976 with 64cc heads. With 59cc heads 10.263 and 8.426.
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  #127 (permalink)  
Old 12-25-2012, 10:49 AM
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Thats too high of compression isent it? Especially with more than ideal quench distance? I'm not sure what im going to do. Not even sure how hard it would be to disassemble the short block, send it to get decked, then reassemble. Obviously if I dont know how hard it is I have never done it and im pretty nervous about it. Im pretty certain I dont want to put it together like this. Pretty sure I need lower compression as well. Who knows what ill do. Probably end up selling this damn thing and getting something else.
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  #128 (permalink)  
Old 12-25-2012, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0trbo4myCHEVUICK View Post
Thats too high of compression isent it? Especially with more than ideal quench distance? I'm not sure what im going to do. Not even sure how hard it would be to disassemble the short block, send it to get decked, then reassemble. Obviously if I dont know how hard it is I have never done it and im pretty nervous about it. Im pretty certain I dont want to put it together like this. Pretty sure I need lower compression as well. Who knows what ill do. Probably end up selling this damn thing and getting something else.
You'll have the same issues with "something else"
Building a motor is not just bolting on a bunch of parts and hoping for the best, not if you want to do it properly and have a quality piece at the end. I have put motors together 3 or 4 times and had them back apart, fixing stuff and making changes and I'll bet other builders will tell you the same thing.
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  #129 (permalink)  
Old 12-25-2012, 06:37 PM
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350///357 build

What are you afraid of? There is not that much to it. All you have to take apart is the short block. Is your motor on an engine stand? If it is roll it over with the crank up. Look at the main bearing caps to see if they are numbered. 1-5. If not buy an engraver and start at the front and mark each cap. Take a picture when done. Now check the rods to see if they are numbered for each cylinder. To keep from getting mixed up use a marker and number each cylinder on the outside of the block. If the rods are not numbered start with #1 cylinder engrave 1 on the rod and the cap on the side facing #1 cylinder. Do the rest the same. Take a picture when your done. To start disassembly turn the crank to bring up #1 & #2 pistons. Remove the nuts. Tap on the side of the #1 cap and wiggle it until it comes off. You will need a piece of 3/4 dowel rod about 12"-15" long. You will also need some 3/8 rubber hose. Cut 2 pieces long enough to cover the rod bolts. Use a hammer and the piece of dowel rod and knock the piston from the bore. Watch the rod to make sure you do not scratch the cylinder wall. Once the piston is out bolt the cap to the rod with the bearings in them. Do the other seven the same. When your done take a picture. Now if the oil pump is on the motor remove it now. Get a gallon size baggie to keep the oil pump and bolt in. Take a picture before and after removing the oil pump. Next remove all the main bearing caps and set aside. Remove crank shaft. Take a picture before and after removal. Stand the crank on the flexplate end in the corner of your bench or someplace it will not get knocked over. Bolt the main bearing caps back to the block. Keep the bearing in place. Do not mix up. Take the crank and # 1,2 7,8 pistons and the block to the machine shop. Get it milled whatever it takes to get to get a .040 quench. IMO I would take the least amount of metal off. There are .015 gaskets that can be used. Also Cometic make gaskets starting with .027. GM has a .028 head gasket I think. Figure the compression ratio you want to have. If you mill it to .010 and use a .030 head gasket your compression will be 10.218 and 8.390. STOP BUY the PISTONS that will give you a 9.5 compression ratio. KB142 D-Cup 18cc will give you 9.525 static compression ratio. Compression ht. is 1.561. Zero deck the block and get a set of Fel-Pro .040 gaskets. Do the decision making before milling. When you get it back get a repair manual. It will have all the information to install the crankshaft and pistons back in the engine. You will need a torque wrench and some plastic gauge to install the crank. The torque specs are in the manual too. If you can't find them do a internet search.

Last edited by cdminter59; 12-25-2012 at 07:01 PM.
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  #130 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2012, 02:44 PM
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Went to the machine shop today and talked to the guy. He got in his book and said that with the pistons .025 in the hole I would be at 9:7 compression with a 58cc head. He doesent believe me about the pistons being .038 in the hole. He wants me to bring the block up there tomorrow morning so he can measure with his dial caliper. We will see what happens but man im still nervous about tearing the thing apart. Not only because of the labor but because It would be so hard to not change parts and that gets me into more money. I was perfectly on my pre-determined 3000 budget for the entire build. Decking the block only costs 100 bucks if I can handle tearing it down and not digging too deep into my pockets for upgrades. I know my pistons suck and I would like a steel crank but probably arp bolts would be the only thing I do..
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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2012, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0trbo4myCHEVUICK View Post
Went to the machine shop today and talked to the guy. He got in his book and said that with the pistons .025 in the hole I would be at 9:7 compression with a 58cc head. He doesent believe me about the pistons being .038 in the hole. He wants me to bring the block up there tomorrow morning so he can measure with his dial caliper. We will see what happens but man im still nervous about tearing the thing apart. Not only because of the labor but because It would be so hard to not change parts and that gets me into more money. I was perfectly on my pre-determined 3000 budget for the entire build. Decking the block only costs 100 bucks if I can handle tearing it down and not digging too deep into my pockets for upgrades. I know my pistons suck and I would like a steel crank but probably arp bolts would be the only thing I do..
If I was in the shoes of your machinist, I might doubt those numbers, too.

The reason is the deck from the factory is supposed to be 9.025", give or take a thou or two. Rebuilder pistons are 0.020" 'shorter' in compression height (deeper in the hole) than stock production pistons.

So he's expecting to see either 0.025" in the hole- uncut deck and stock compression height pistons,

OR,

0.045" in the hole- uncut deck and rebuilder pistons (0.025" deck plus 0.020 compression height difference).

BUT! It's entirely possible to be exactly what you say it is. One way to end up at 0.038" in the hole is rebuilder pistons and the deck cut about 0.007". You can look at the deck and tell if it's been machined other than by the factory. One clue is if the suffix code is very shallow or missing altogether- if the block was decked 0.007", the suffix would definitely show it.
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  #132 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 06:27 AM
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Well, kids, this is another example of doing your parts matching and engine math waaaaaaaaay before a single part is ever bought.
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  #133 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 04:28 PM
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This motor isent far from working. The machinest and I both feel like this is going to be a solid pump gas sbc. I know upgrades would require re balancing and I don't want to deal with that. Sure I messed up thinking milling the cylinder head would help quench. It's not like the in the hole measurement caught me off guard though. I knew they were too far down when I bought it. I still feel good about this combo. Even if I end up 200 over budget for decking and arp bolts
.
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  #134 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 04:30 PM
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Head gaskets were not involved in my measurements.
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  #135 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 05:26 PM
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350///357 build

Man, I am tired of this wishy, washy back and forth. Do what you said you wanted to do. You didn't want to spend but $3000 right. Take the block to the machinist and let him check it out. You were going to get a Scat rotating assembly. It is a cast steel crank good to about 700 HP. Ask when purchasing the kit if they are using SCAT 2-ICR6000 PRO STOCK I BEAM CONNECTING RODS. They are 4340 forged steel. There are 4 different I-beam rods. The Pro Stock is the only 1 that is stroker clearanced. If you want them stronger upgrade to L19 or Arp 2000 rod bolts. Get the kit from CNC Motorsports their price is better and shipping is cheaper than Summit Racing. Call them on the phone to make sure you get the correct parts that you want.

Last edited by cdminter59; 12-27-2012 at 05:52 PM.
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