Instead of the Performer cam you could use the Summit K1102. It has the same .420/.442 lift, 204/214 @ .050, 112 LSA as the Performer but Summit sells it for $99.95 for a cam/lifter kit compared to $129.95 for the Performer cam/lifter kit. The Edelbrock name on that box costs $30! EVERY cam company has the same, or nearly the same grind as the Performer. Sallee Chevrolet
sells a version of the Goodwrench 350 (service replacement engine for your truck) with the same cam specs. They rate it at 285 HP with a Performer intake, Edelbrock 1904 Quadrajet (doesn't give a cfm rating), and 1 5/8" headers. The peak torque is 355 lb/ft, 51 lb/ft higher than the stock Goodwrench 350. That would be a budget setup that would really help bring your pickup to life.
Valkyrie5.7 gave VERY GOOD advice to consider the gearing. GM has a habit of using high gear ratios in trucks that really should be geared lower. I had an '80 Chevy pickup with 250 inline 6, 3 on the tree and an '81 with 250 inline 6, T350, lockup TC, and both came with 2.76
diffs, ok for regular driving, but terrible for any performance or pulling. Had a '93 WT (Work Truck) with the 4.3 TBI and auto OD, 3.42 diff. Little more engine and little more gear, was a wayyyy better performer. Not hard to understand, the difference between 2.76 and 3.42 is about 25% more torque multiplication! (I believe the auto OD would probably be geared slightly lower too) My wifes '94 S10 has the 4.3 TBI V6 (same as my WT but a much lighter truck) with a 5 speed, it has the da** 2.76 gears too. It would be wayyyyy better with some 3.42's like my WT had. At 70 mph in 5th (OD) it's only turning about 2000 rpm, the 4.3 really comes to life at 2500.
My present truck is a '94 C1500 ext cab with 350 TBI, 5 speed manual, and 3.42's. It's fun to drive, but for pulling our 26' travel trailer 3.73's would have been a better choice.
If your 350 is a solid engine that still has good compression and doesn't use oil the budget setup I outlined would work well in your pickup. But, if it needs a rebuild follow Curtis73's advice and turn it into a 383, for little if any more $$$ than you can rebuild as a 355. A Scat 9103750 crank (3.75 stroke for 350 2 pc main seal block and 5.7" rods) is $189.95 at Summit. Scat 25700P Pro Stock I beam rods with 3/8" ARP cap screws (for stroker clearance) and pressed pins are $226.95 per set. KB197 12cc "D cup" (reverse dome) pistons are $299.95 per set, for a total of $716.85. Have your block zero decked to this setup (the KB197 pistons have a 1.433 compression height compared to a nominal 1.425 compression height for 383 pistons, so figure .017" off the spec .025 "in the hole" for an undecked block). This'll give you a quench measurement the height of your head gasket (usually .039-.041) With stock 76cc heads the static compression ratio will be 9.1. This gives a 383 with a tight quench that should have no detonation problems, have loads of torque, and run all day long on pump gas. To liven things up a little more a set of 72cc Dart Iron Eagle SS heads for $659.00 (assembled with .525" lift valve springs) at Aerohead Racing
will raise the CR to slightly over 9.4, with improved breathing and chambers than your stockers, and still be fine with pump gas. This 383 combined with some 3.42's (good), 3.73's (better), or 4.10's (best) will put lots of smiles on your face.
One last tip: try to become friends with your local tire salesman, because you'll need his best deals!