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Old 01-05-2012, 08:54 PM
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350 or 366????

i've got a 1980 chevy custon deluxe

it has a 350 in it, but i just want to know if could change it out to a 366 i just want something that will pull

which would be better??

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Old 01-05-2012, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrowe94
i just want something that will pull
Get a different truck. The money you're going to spend on the one you have will more than make up the difference between your truck and a nicer, more powerful truck. Trade up.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:09 PM
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well the truck and the 366 was gave to me...

i just figured use it, i was just wondering which would be better

im not going for speed just low end torque
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:09 PM
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Are you talking about a big block...aka tall deck 366? If that's the case stick with a properly built for torque 350.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:16 PM
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well if i do im going to put a edelbrock proformer cam to help with the low end
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:23 PM
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what could i use the 366 for besides scrap?...
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:26 PM
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I've driven bobtails with 366s and 350s. When you want to pull it's all about the transmission and the rear gear. If you really want to pull, sell the 366 and swap the transmission out for an SM420 or SM465. Combine it with a nice steep rear gear, you can pull just about anything within the limitations of the chassis. If you're looking for mpg and towing, then you need to listen to tech and sell it for a diesel.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:32 PM
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well i can get the trans that came with the 366, could i just change out the ring and pinion gears out?

Last edited by jrowe94; 01-05-2012 at 09:33 PM. Reason: mistake
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Old 01-06-2012, 02:33 AM
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the 366 is basically a tall-deck big block with the displacement of a small block. Its a boat anchor. You can make them perform like a 350, but for the money you'd spend on the wider performance intake and the obsolete parts, you could build three 350s.

Turn your 350 into 383. Its cheaper than you think. Mild cam, stock heads, 8.5:1 compression, you can easily be knocking on 300 hp and still be making tons of torque that peaks at 2000 rpm or below.
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:08 AM
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i think ill just do that
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Old 01-06-2012, 12:51 PM
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Instead of the Performer cam you could use the Summit K1102. It has the same .420/.442 lift, 204/214 @ .050, 112 LSA as the Performer but Summit sells it for $99.95 for a cam/lifter kit compared to $129.95 for the Performer cam/lifter kit. The Edelbrock name on that box costs $30! EVERY cam company has the same, or nearly the same grind as the Performer. Sallee Chevrolet sells a version of the Goodwrench 350 (service replacement engine for your truck) with the same cam specs. They rate it at 285 HP with a Performer intake, Edelbrock 1904 Quadrajet (doesn't give a cfm rating), and 1 5/8" headers. The peak torque is 355 lb/ft, 51 lb/ft higher than the stock Goodwrench 350. That would be a budget setup that would really help bring your pickup to life.

Valkyrie5.7 gave VERY GOOD advice to consider the gearing. GM has a habit of using high gear ratios in trucks that really should be geared lower. I had an '80 Chevy pickup with 250 inline 6, 3 on the tree and an '81 with 250 inline 6, T350, lockup TC, and both came with 2.76 diffs, ok for regular driving, but terrible for any performance or pulling. Had a '93 WT (Work Truck) with the 4.3 TBI and auto OD, 3.42 diff. Little more engine and little more gear, was a wayyyy better performer. Not hard to understand, the difference between 2.76 and 3.42 is about 25% more torque multiplication! (I believe the auto OD would probably be geared slightly lower too) My wifes '94 S10 has the 4.3 TBI V6 (same as my WT but a much lighter truck) with a 5 speed, it has the da** 2.76 gears too. It would be wayyyyy better with some 3.42's like my WT had. At 70 mph in 5th (OD) it's only turning about 2000 rpm, the 4.3 really comes to life at 2500. My present truck is a '94 C1500 ext cab with 350 TBI, 5 speed manual, and 3.42's. It's fun to drive, but for pulling our 26' travel trailer 3.73's would have been a better choice.

If your 350 is a solid engine that still has good compression and doesn't use oil the budget setup I outlined would work well in your pickup. But, if it needs a rebuild follow Curtis73's advice and turn it into a 383, for little if any more $$$ than you can rebuild as a 355. A Scat 9103750 crank (3.75 stroke for 350 2 pc main seal block and 5.7" rods) is $189.95 at Summit. Scat 25700P Pro Stock I beam rods with 3/8" ARP cap screws (for stroker clearance) and pressed pins are $226.95 per set. KB197 12cc "D cup" (reverse dome) pistons are $299.95 per set, for a total of $716.85. Have your block zero decked to this setup (the KB197 pistons have a 1.433 compression height compared to a nominal 1.425 compression height for 383 pistons, so figure .017" off the spec .025 "in the hole" for an undecked block). This'll give you a quench measurement the height of your head gasket (usually .039-.041) With stock 76cc heads the static compression ratio will be 9.1. This gives a 383 with a tight quench that should have no detonation problems, have loads of torque, and run all day long on pump gas. To liven things up a little more a set of 72cc Dart Iron Eagle SS heads for $659.00 (assembled with .525" lift valve springs) at Aerohead Racing will raise the CR to slightly over 9.4, with improved breathing and chambers than your stockers, and still be fine with pump gas. This 383 combined with some 3.42's (good), 3.73's (better), or 4.10's (best) will put lots of smiles on your face. One last tip: try to become friends with your local tire salesman, because you'll need his best deals!

Ed

Last edited by BigEd36; 01-06-2012 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 01-06-2012, 01:58 PM
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Forgot to add: That would make a 383 that is pretty close to the GM Performance Parts HT (High Torque) 383 for a LOT less $$$! (The Iron Eagle SS's would help your 350 if it's still a solid engine too.)
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