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Old 03-16-2011, 07:38 PM
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350 or 383

well am undecided on what to build... right now i have a 350 4 bolt main bored 40 over with cast flat top pistons, and a set of vortec heads part number 906 stock valves, (i was told flat top pistons with vortec heads would bump up compression so am buying dished pistons) i would be using the extreme energy 274h comp cam with 490 lift,

would i be better off building the 350 or building a 383 stroker? thanks in advance...

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Old 03-16-2011, 07:55 PM
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Well the 383 will have more power, but in turn will be more expesive and take longer to build.
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:03 PM
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383 will take no longer to build than a 350. and hp per dollar will end up cheaper.. depending on budget/ requirements, a 383 crank can be had for less than $200. new pistions/ rings and an .030 overbore ( std rebuild ). block can be machined for crank clearence with a die grinder.. it's not really that much more
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:09 PM
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am willing to build the 383 stroker but am wondering if the stock 350 beam rods fit with the 3.75 stroke, am asking this cause i took the heads to a shop for a 3 angle valve job and for them to install the required cam srpings and they told me i needed to buy beam rods am confused plz help, thanks in advance
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:14 PM
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Get a new machine shop, either they are trying to screw you or they just don't know.....I think the first scenario is more accurate. The stock 5.7 rods will work after you get them rebuilt with ARP bolts. Or buy a complete Scat rotating stroker assembly, then you don't have to trust anyone....but get it balanced first.
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 327NUT
Get a new machine shop, either they are trying to screw you or they just don't know.....I think the first scenario is more accurate. The stock 5.7 rods will work after you get them rebuilt with ARP bolts. Or buy a complete Scat rotating stroker assembly, then you don't have to trust anyone....but get it balanced first.
they got me confused cause in summit they sell a 3.75 stroke that works with a 5.7 rod so if i buy that crank it suppose to work with stock 5.7 rods off a 350 am building the engine my self i just went to that shop to get my heads done but they told me stock rods wont work on a 3.75 stroke crank,

so far this is what i got in mind:

350 4 bolt main bored 40 over,
L31 vortec heads, with required cam springs
3.75 stroke crank with stock 350 beam rods,
performer rpm intake,
comp cam extreme energy 274h 4.90lift,
dished hipereutectic pistons,

am i going in the right direction of do i have something wrong? thanks in advance...
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:45 PM
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Like 327 said, buy a rotating kit and there are no issues. If you decide to piece it, you can use either the 5.7" or 6" rods, and get pistons for which ever you decide to use with the 3.75 stroke crank.

If you have a 400 3.75 crank, you'll need to have the mains cut down to fit the 350 block. Again, a kit takes all that hassle away.

BTW, your cam lift is .490", vs. 4.9".
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68NovaSS
Like 327 said, buy a rotating kit and there are no issues. If you decide to piece it, you can use either the 5.7" or 6" rods, and get pistons for which ever you decide to use with the 3.75 stroke crank.

If you have a 400 3.75 crank, you'll need to have the mains cut down to fit the 350 block. Again, a kit takes all that hassle away.

BTW, your cam lift is .490", vs. 4.9".
thanks for the correction am just planning on buying everything seperate am buying a part each week since am not in a hurry lol , am buying the stuff of summit racing the crank part number is: ESP-103503750 this one is for a 5.7 rod would i need to do any modifications to this or will it bolt on as is?
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
383 will take no longer to build than a 350. and hp per dollar will end up cheaper.. depending on budget/ requirements, a 383 crank can be had for less than $200. new pistions/ rings and an .030 overbore ( std rebuild ). block can be machined for crank clearence with a die grinder.. it's not really that much more
So getting it balanced, checking clearances, grinding pan rails and such, ordering new parts, none of that takes any time?
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:43 PM
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Instead of spending money to replace parts that you have that are fine- pistons and crank- spend it on a roller cam, the power increase will be about the same but it will also add durability.
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72
Instead of spending money to replace parts that you have that are fine- pistons and crank- spend it on a roller cam, the power increase will be about the same but it will also add durability.
but block is a non roller would i still be able?
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Old 03-16-2011, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jkingof956
but block is a non roller would i still be able?
You can convert the block or get a retrofit kit, either way can work retrofit can be a little easier.
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Old 03-16-2011, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdog7373
So getting it balanced, checking clearances, grinding pan rails and such, ordering new parts, none of that takes any time?
you do all of that except grinding/ machining the block for the 3.75" crank for a 350 rebuild.. Machine shop can do the machining for the 3.75" crank too, for a minimal cost. and it would be there anyway for an overbore, magnaflux ect...
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Old 03-17-2011, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72
You can convert the block or get a retrofit kit, either way can work retrofit can be a little easier.
i was also thinking on going with a retro fit roller cam but i have other things to do as well
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Old 03-17-2011, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
you do all of that except grinding/ machining the block for the 3.75" crank for a 350 rebuild.. Machine shop can do the machining for the 3.75" crank too, for a minimal cost. and it would be there anyway for an overbore, magnaflux ect...
the block is ready, it was rebuilt with new cam bearings, bore, and balanced and everything else thats needed to get to run, but if i buy the crank am taking the block to the shop again to get it machine to accept the 3.75 crank on the 350 block, and also taking the heads for a 3 angle valve job and install the new valve springs required for the cam
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