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Old 01-29-2005, 08:50 PM
my350camaro84's Avatar
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350 or 383 Stroker?

well heres my predicament(or however you spell it). I just found a guy with a 350 out of a 72 Z/28 said he'd sell me everything for 100 bucks he just is out of room and it's not together pistons or crank aren't in but he has all the parts. my main question is that I want to get the 350 honed out and cleaned up before I build it back up for my Camaro. do you think it would just be worth it to stroke it to a 383? I want to stay with small block in this car but I want some power...is the 383 going to be a big power gain over a built up 350? either way they'd have real nice heads, intake, cam..the works. and do you know what the machining costs run for someone to bore it out to a 383?

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Old 01-29-2005, 08:56 PM
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if you've got about 2-3 grand laying around, sure, do it up. If I were you I'd make sure the motor you've got doesn't leak, maybe put a cam and a head rebuild on it and call it good.

K
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Old 01-29-2005, 09:50 PM
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To make a 383 out of it you'll need it bored .30 over, usually around $100 to bore and hone it. Then you'll need a new crankshaft with a 3.750" Stroke, and you'll also need the block clearanced for the stroker crank which is about $150 around here. I'm sure some of the older guys could correct me if I'm wrong. I agree with Killer though, if I were you I'd stick with the 350 and build it up a little.. I'm sure it'll make plenty of power for you.

- Brad
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Old 01-29-2005, 10:02 PM
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If your going to get it bored (prob. need it anyways) and do all the work and then put a 350 back together that seems like a waste of time and money.
For the cost of a "built" 350 vs 383 your looking at a round about same price and the bang per buck is much great with the 383. If you want TQ and some more HP build the 383.
The clearnace work you can do yourself with a die grinder and a few bits just watch for water jackets.
A 350 can work really great don't get me wrong I love mine but if your is apart already I would want to lay a good foundation for my project and then build on top of that as time goes.

Since it is apart already and you may need to get new parts as is. Buy a good kit (around $700/800) for hyper pistons, cast crack, rods and bearings and balanced. Just for referance the 383 crack is in fact a turned down 400 crank. New kits come with the crack already the correct size.

This is just me but the way I look at it do it once and do it right. If you still have the money then get the heads worked on. Biggest thing after bottom is cam and heads then of course intake and carb.

Chris
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Old 01-30-2005, 05:28 PM
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yeah checked around it's 300 bucks for the machine work I'm going with the 383. I just bought an Edelbrock RPM Air-gap to slap on the motor I have now in my camaro then I'll transfer that onto the 383. thanks for the replies. just out of curiosity this motor doesn't have to be "insane" I want to get some good power my goal is 300-400 and still be streetable. got any suggestions on heads or cam? with the cam I want a really noticible idle you know where it sounds like it's about to stall if not even somewhat of a noticible idle I'll be happy with just need to be able to drive it without worrying. thanks guys
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Old 01-30-2005, 05:39 PM
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Dart Iron eagle heads would be a good choice. Look around on here for forums about heads. For 400 hp you can easily make that with a 383. Your going to make TQ which is always fun. For a 383 looks for something head size in the area of 180 to 210cc


As for the cam. I'll say it before someone else reams you out for it. Don't buy cam based on sound. That is about the worst and most impossible way to pick a correct cam.
Your going to want a cam that fit your needs(RPM range). If you want to make power down low then you need a smaller cam. More high end power = bigger cam. So that cam that would give that dieing sound would have such a high rpm on it that you would never feel the power in your engine till your RPM got up there and thats no fun for the street and light to light action.

Now with the 383 you will be able to eat a little more cam then say a 350 but you still have to stay within reason. Look at comp. 280 and 292 magnum cams are an idea of size. They give you an example of RPM range. You have to stay within that otherwise you'll have a bunch of expensive parts that give you jack.

Good set of after market heads like that darts, the correct cam and the AIR gap and around a 700/ 750 CFM carb.will easily give you that 400HP your looking for.

Chris
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Old 01-30-2005, 06:53 PM
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okay now if I go with this and Holley 750 and the Comp Cams 292 and then some sweet heads you think this thing would still be really streetable? I want something I'd be able to drive around without a problem.
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Old 01-30-2005, 07:48 PM
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Here's what you do call up what ever cam. company you want. Crane has a section that you can ask them to recommend a cam online. You give them your info. about the engine and trans rear and so on and they will tell you what cam to get. Normally the cam companies have the best idea and if you want ot make sure post what they told you here and there ya go.

"sweet" heads are going to cost you like AFR is around 1300 but there are very very good heads like Darts out there for much cheaper.

The carb I believe you will be safe with 700/750 One thing that I have learned from mine is to use vac. 2nd. Other carbs work good but the vac. has saved me gas and given be better throttle response.

Chris
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2005, 12:01 AM
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might as well go the rest of the way........you already got a 350 go ahead and go the rest of the way, 383! Hell ya, I did and never regreted it
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Old 02-22-2005, 12:18 AM
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the GMPP fast burn heads are very good and aluminum
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/277/products/144/Fast-Burn-SB-Chevrolet-Aluminum-Cylinder-Head.htm
about $590 apiece
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Old 02-22-2005, 12:24 AM
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you might look into a 650 vac sec Speed Demon
Carb # Application

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Part # 1282020
575 Speed Demon

Part # 1282020VE
575 Vacuum-Secondary Speed Demon

Part # 1282020VFE
575 Vacuum-Secondary Speed Demon w/ Ford kickdown linkage Stock and mild performance
283 - 390 cid V8 engines

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Part # 1282010
650 Speed Demon

Part #1282010VE
650 Vacuum-Secondary Speed Demon

Part # 1282010VFE
650 Speed Demon w/Ford kickdown linkage Mild 302 to 427 cid engines

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Part # 1402010
750 Speed Demon

Part # 1402010VE
750 Vacuum-Secondary Speed Demon

Part # 1402010VFE
750 Speed Demon w/Ford kickdown linkage 393 to 477 cid engines &
mild 427 to 455 cid engines

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Part # 1563010
850 Speed Demon

Part # 1563010VE
850 Vacuum-Secondary Speed Demon

Part # 1563010VFE
850 Speed Demon w/Ford kickdown linkage 480 to 540 Big Block
“Crate” motors

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

850 Annular Speed Demons:

Part # 1563020

Part # 1563020VE (Vacuum-Secondary)

Part # 1563020VFE (w/Ford kickdown) 468 to 510 Mild
Big Blocks

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Part # 1402010DR
750 Competition Speed Demon

Part # 1563010DR
850 Competition Speed Demon NHRA classes where original equipment-style carburetors with choke horn are required (Competition Eliminator - Altered/Dragster, Super Stock - Modified).

Last edited by rick458; 02-22-2005 at 12:25 AM. Reason: misspelled vac (its late)
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Old 02-22-2005, 05:11 AM
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Me and you seem to be wanting the same thing...Im also going with the 383 stroker.The question I have for this thred is this..anyone know any good machine shops here in SC? if so drop me a line thanks
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Old 02-22-2005, 07:29 AM
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when you go to buy your block,tell the guy you'll be happy to pay him for it after you take it to the machine shop and get the ok from them that the block is in fact good.i agree with the dart iron eagle heads and i'd stick with 180-195 cc intake runners.thats big enough for a 383 that will spend all of its life on the street.you can buy a new eagle or scat cast steel crank rated at 500 h.p. for 195.00,hyper. pistons 170.00 and rods 170.00 and no nned for clearancing.not in my 406 anyway.the rods are rated at 500 h.p..balancing will be about 150.00.you can find used heads if you need to go the cheaper route.just spend the time to look and you've got to be sure they are good because people don't like to give money back to you..you can do this a little at a time.spend the time needed to do some research cause people will take advantage of you every chance they get.buy a chevy small block interchange manual and a rebuilding the small block chevy books.they're about 20.00 ea.good luck
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Old 08-29-2006, 11:27 PM
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hey

hey i got a 76 vette i finished redoing this past winter but i never touched the motor or tranny yet (all origional) i was wondering what would be the best way 2 get allot of pawer 4rom it. i was thinking of going with the 383 stroker idea roughly how much horsepower would that give me? then i was also wondering if i should put a shift kit in the auto tranny or look 2 find a turbo 400? im just wonderin wat would be my best 2 do. thanx!
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Old 08-30-2006, 07:10 AM
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Dude... This thread is a year and a half old.... and you're trying to steal it...?
Start a new thread and ask your questions in the engine section.
Mark
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