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Old 08-07-2003, 08:09 PM
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350 blocks 010???

Allright,what the deal??
I have an old issue of Super Stock and drag illustrated with an article on how to select the proper engine block.
For a 350 it says,late model 350s are no good for performance as they are lighter and less durable and they can be identified by 010 raised on the side between the frost plugs.I also says the#s to look for under the timing cover are 512,532 & 509.(400s look for 509,817 & 511)It also said blocks with the narrow stamping pad are more than likely not the good block.
Now I've allways heard 010 or 020 undre the timing cover means the percentage of nickel.010 being 10% and 020 being 20% both being desirable "high"nickel blocks.
Now another mag I got says 010 in the block #(ex.3970010) signifies simply a 4" bore.
Whats the deal??
I also seen in a post awhile back that 1979 and newer blocks are weaker??An that 87 and newer(one eace main seal) are really weak.
I have a block 3970010 2bolt with 010 under the cover but none of those other #s.Is this good or not??
I also have a 350 4bolt 80-85 block with no 010 or #s under the cover.It has a narrow tab.Its in the car now.If it is weaker how much weaker???Won't standup to 500hp weak?? Or could crack at any time weak??

The # for the newer block is 14010207.

Last edited by 78 monte; 08-07-2003 at 08:09 PM.
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Old 08-07-2003, 08:30 PM
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Relax Monte. first off, there was another myth that 010 on the side meant a 4 bolt block, 010 on the side of the block means a 4 inch bore. the stampings under the timing cover your correct about, however, 79 was the year GM started getting thin on the block castings, I have 2 1979 blocks, both cracked in the bores. the 80`s blocks were also thin, the late 80`s early 90`s blocks are thin and a bit more crack prone. I also have a 509 block, but a friend of mine has one and it`s cracked in the bore, it did this while in service, daily driven and completely stock. I have a 74 350 and it has 2 cracks in the bore. I don`t much worry about them cracking, I have them magnafluxed before I run them and if there`s no cracks, I don`t worry about it and move on, cause if it`s gonna crack, it`s gonna, regardless of the year or what`s mixed with the cast iron.
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Old 08-07-2003, 08:38 PM
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with 350 block all are suitable for performance use just some are better than others generally speaking the high nickle blocks ex 010 and 020 (percent nickle) wear better and are less prone to cracking. Late 350 block were cast lighter but are still adiquit for durability usually the least amount of over bore is what you want and out wieghts the other factors. Now if you are big on the dollar side you can get one of the bow tie or after market blocks which are very strong but for most milder aplications this would be over kill. As for the 87 and newer blocks yes they did have a 1 piece rear main which means the crank is specific as well as the oil pan but as still very suitable for hight performance use. If you are planing on running 500 horse then probably the 4 bolt main would be the best choice although either would probably work just fine as long as studs were used for the main bearing caps. If you are set on using the high nickle 2 bolt main it can also be drilled and taped for after market bearing caps to convert to a 4 bolt main.
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Old 08-08-2003, 12:00 AM
E.T. divided by $ spent= Speed
 
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Thanks guys.I had that article from super stock for a long time and allready knew about the 10%/20% nickel thing.But once I heard yet another version of what 010 meant I was all confused.I allways told everyone bout the 10%/20% thing till I read those two differant articles,then I was really lost.
DV,I think it might have been you were I got that,that newer blocks are crack prone from.Cause I remeber hearing bout the two cracked 79 blocks.
Just so you guys know the 80-85 block I mentioned is just a mild motor,stock bore bout 320hp.(just rebuilt it,its waiting for its new body to come home)
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