[Meangreen]

Well guys i finally got around to buying everything to build my 350 up, going in my 71 chevelle. Here is a list of the things i have bought/done:

350 block:
Bored .040 over
Vatted
Speed pro hypereutectic pistons
Stock connecting rods
New Freeze plugs
New crank with jounals .020 over
Comp 270h magnum cam
Comp hydraulic lifters
Melling pushrods
Melling High Volume Oil Pump

Stock 487 Heads:
Compression should be around 9.5:1
Replacement stock rocker arms
Stock valve springs
high performance valve guide seals
Home port and polish job

Etc:
Accel Distributor
MSD coil
Accel module
Accel wires
Flowtech headers
Holley dominator intake
Edelbrock 600 EC carb
K&N Air filter
Brand new water pump
Brand new 3 core radiator
Flex fan
Brand new altenator

Transmission:
New Front and Rear seal
New filter
B&M Stage 2 shift kit
Hurst Pro-Matic 2 ratchet shifter
Stock TC

Rebuilt Front end:
New upper and lower ball joints
New upper and lower control arm bushings
New Polygraphite sway bar bushings


Im sure there is something im forgetting but just thought i would let yall guys know what was going on....
What do yall think of my setup? This is gonna be the car i drive to school and back everyday... And try to take it easy... im only 16

[Meangreen]

Can any of yall give me a round about horsepower figure??

[KeithB123]

Only 16...... Damn I`m 34 and WISH I was in your shoes!

I`m still tweeking my rebuid in which is close to your set up .

1st off.....cylinder heads. If you put on some after market OR Vortecs...you would gain 75 to 100 HP. The heads is where the horsepower is at. Period.

I also went with my stock connecting rods. If I would do it over I would go with 6 inch connecting rods. I did not because I did not have the money at the time but now I`m kicking myself for not waiting.

It is very easy to work on the top of the engine BUT the lower end must be considered now.

I went with Edelbrock rpm heads, compression is at 9:7.1 and on the desktop dyno I have 356 hp.

[Meangreen]

Yeah, I had to save up for 2 months to do it. What exactly is the difference between stock connecting rods and the 6 inch ones you mentioned? So I should be around 320 horses??
What is your setup in?

[Mr. Green]

oops

[Busted Knuckles]

Sounds like a pretty decent combo. Except you might want to reconsider your intake. An open plane Dominator is a tad too big for those heads and the 600 cfm carb. OTOH, since you already have it, run it. See if you like it. Manifolds are easy to swap later.
You can bolt it together as it is, but you'd be money ahead to go ahead and have the assembly balanced, resize the rods, and do put in a decent set of rod and cap bolts.
And if you haven't done so already, put some LT1 springs on the heads. I'm also using a 270H in my 406 with LT1 springs and stock ported/port matched heads. That cam is pretty choppy in my 406, so it oughta sound pretty radical in your 350.
I think though, the next motor I build will probably be one of them 355 screamers.

[johnsongrass1]

You'll never see the difference in 6" rods in a street engine. The money invested in the rods should go to other things. Otherwise a long rod won't fall off peak power as quickly. I agree the single plane manifold will be the devil in you cereal.

[darom]

<<You'll never see the difference in 6" rods in a street engine. The money invested in the rods should go to other things.>>

Meangreen, get the book by David Vizard, "How to Build Max Performance Chevy Small Blocks on a Budget". He mentiones a lot of things where to save money, but as far as the rods are concerned, he recommends getting 6" rods (in addition, he also tries to shave off extra weight off them.).

I don't want to start a flame war here, but is there a need for extra volume oil pump? Your compression is 9.5:1. Again according to the above book, anything below should be fine with the stock pump.

Anyone?

[Mr. Green]

look on this site you can prboly find somthing similarhere ya go

[Meangreen]

Thanks for the quick responses.

My fault i forgot to specify it was a dual plane dominator intake.

I have got a brand new crank and brand new flywheel.

I am gonna give it some new heads later on, which should be not too hard to do with the engine in the car, thats the reason i went ahead and kept the stockers so i could put some high priced heads on it later on. Thats when im gonna do everything to the heads i want.
But when you mean LT1 Springs do you mean ones i could pull from a car in the junkyard?

And i was wondering how radical that cam will sound?

I ordered an engine kit from northern auto parts which included the oil pump, thats the reason for it.

Thanks again for the responses.

[Meangreen]

BTW, what should i gap my plugs at??

[haystack71]

As a rule of thumb you need atleast .045 gap for hei ignition and .035 for points.

I'm 17 and just finished my first engine build
I had it dyno'd only to find out that the guy running the dyno didn't set up the weather readings right in the computer so my max torque and hp ratings were really low. I should be pushing close to 300 horse.

The port and polish is ok it's just going to take you a while. I wouldn't worry about how much power you're going to put out just be happy when you start it for the first time and it doesn't blow on you. My only advice is to have a good time with it.

[Auto-Part]

If it works you should expect 250hp to 275hp. Keep us updated

[Meangreen]

Before i had the plug gap at .035.... Could that have affected my performance any?

[KeithB123]

Hey mean, my set up is in my 1986 WS6 trans Am. I put on the 4th gen hood and spoiler. I went with Comp Extreme cam 274, 2400 stall, Edelbrock rpm heads and all the fixins...forged pistons and crank. I want to toss on a 150 shot of the juice but I need to upgrade my edelbrock performer intake and 600 cfm carb needs to go to a 750 1st.

Good luck man,your on your way. And come back here to ask your questions....I ask alot!