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350 Build/Install

10K views 84 replies 13 participants last post by  whiskeywiz 
#1 · (Edited)
Starting a new thread specific to what I am currently trying to do. I had a broken ring in my 258 Jeep engine and am replacing it with a 350. I just got the 350 in my garage. It has about a hundred miles on it, and I got it from a buddy. I can tell by the unused sensors that it was originally FI. It has been hacked down to a carburetor. I will be reverse engineering it back to FI. I already found and pulled a replacement distributor and am waiting on an engine stand so that I can paint it. I already have a few questions in mind, but first thing I need help with is identifying exactly what I have for ordering parts, and my own peace of mind. Can't use vehicle information, since it was a diesel 3500. I have done a little research and recovered casting numbers from the top, flywheel end of the block. They are:


10054727 5.7 L G ("G" could be 6 or 0) CANADA 3


What I have found is: 1986 and up, one piece rear main seal, and 2/4 bolt main. Don't know what 2/4 main means. Is that the most info I will find? Should I be looking in other places for more markings?
Here's a pic:
 
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#39 ·
Looking at several sites for the head casting number 14102193 they are listed as 1987, 305 or 350, 1.94/1.5 valves. I would have to pull a head to measure the cylinder bore to find out if it is a 305 or 350. The bore of the 305 is 3.736" and the bore of the 350 is 4.0". If it is a 350 I would go to the pick and pull to get a pair of 062 vortec heads 96 and up. Also get the intake manifold to match. If you want a little more power install this Howard's retro-fit hyd. roller cam. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-110225-12/overview/make/chevrolet
 
#43 ·
That's a coolant port and probably won't turn into an intake leak. It should show up as an external coolant leak if it leak at all. You could get it milled and run a thicker gasket. You could lob a thin smear of silicone across the area of pitting and should be fine. Or you could just run it and see what happens. Milling it is the best option.
 
#46 ·
Copy that. Thanks.


Well I ran into some confusion yesterday and am not sure how to proceed. I went to Autozone for a replacement water pump for; what we here have decided to be, a 1990 1/2 ton 4wd Chevy 350. The replacement pump did not have the threaded openings that I am pointing to in the pics below, so I held off on it. Some or all of these holes are used for bracketry.


 
#47 · (Edited)
Since I am analytical I started this thread on this seemingly very knowledgeable forum in order to do the very first important step in my motor swap process: ID THE MOTOR. 4 pages later I still don't have a solid ID on this thing; (however on a positive note I have managed to steer clear of a carb vs. fuel injection debate). I've given block casting info, head info, wasted $ popping the oil pan to ID 2 or 4 bolt main, etc... The only info towards a solid ID that I've gotten is that it is an LO5 engine; which I don't even know what that means, the heads are TBI swirl ported, and that I need to reference that it is a truck engine.
The reason I am ranting is because if I use the information that I used to order manifold gaskets, to order a water pump, I get the wrong water pump. The very thing that I asked for help to avoid is now an issue, again. Using the info we settled on being correct I get this water pump:
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea.../1990/8-cylinders-k-5-7l-tbi/154767_381122_0/


You can see that it is not the same that I have posted in the pictures above.
If I use this info: "1984 Chevrolet Truck C20 3/4 ton P/U 2WD 5.7L 4BL OHV 8cyl" I get what looks to be the correct water pump: http://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...84/8-cylinders-l-5-7l-4bl-ohv/72038_647746_0/


So what engine do I have guys? Did the PO scab various parts? Do you need more info from me? What's up? Thank you.
BTW.... do I use this pump if I am going to use an electric fan?
 
#48 ·
Looks like it could be an LT-9 except for them usually being 4 bolt mains, but usually is not always.
Although after some research I now know what an L05 is, I don't know why we are guessing that that is what it is. Because it came out of a truck? I said that this engine was not native to the truck that it came out of.
 
#49 ·
Looks like 87 or later, assuming the heads and valve covers are original to the block...
"1987 – The valve cover surfaces were changed so that the mounting lip was raised and the bolt location was moved from 4 bolts on the perimeter to 4 bolts along the centerline of the valve covers (this design debuted on the Corvette in 1986, and the Chevrolet 4.3L 90 degree V6 the year before). Also changed were the mounting angles of the two center bolts on each side of the intake manifold (from 90 to 73 degrees), and the lifter bosses were increased in height to accept roller lifters; the aluminum-alloy heads for use on the Corvette engines retained the non-angled bolts. Also, all carburetors were replaced by TBI (throttle-body injection) fuel injection".
 
#55 ·
Thought about going with an electric pump, since I'll be using an electric fan, but they cost too much.
Years ago I had an Autozone water pump fail pretty quick on my 5.0 but I didn't torque the bolts and didn't go in an alternating sequence. Haven't really replaced a water pump since. We'll see...
Sucks that I have to remember several different reference vehicles to order replacement parts. Really didn't want to be that guy. Oh well.
 
#57 ·
That's what you keep notes for. For example, '68 327, 85 Vette TPI, 87 Vette intank fuel pump and filter, 94 S10 front spindles and brakes, torsen carrier from '01 Camaro, rear drum brakes (and axles) from '98 S10 - note to machine 3/32" from lip to clear backing plate, trans from 82 Safari Wagon with servo and valve body from 86 Monte Carlo, shifter cable from 87 Camaro, etc, etc, etc.

The list above was from the initial build of my son's 77 Astre. Then we started changing stuff:spank:. This may seem like a pain, but it is what it is.

OR you can drop the big dollar and pay someone else to do this for you but where's the fun in that.
 
#59 ·
How am I looking here, guys? I'm thinking I def need a SYE and that I can move everything forward a bit to eat up some of that extra space in the front. I'm most likely going with an electric fan, but don't have one on hand, and figure if I size everything up with the clutch fan then I'll be good.
Tnx










 
#61 · (Edited)
Copy that on the shroud. TY.
Did some reading last night and saw mentioned somewhere on somebody's build thread to have the replacement/new aluminum radiator in place before setting the engine, which seems logical. But what about when that radiator needs to be replaced? I'm not going to reset the engine location. So there should be a general safe distance, and if so, then I actually shouldn't need to have the replacement/new aluminum radiator in place first.
Also, I see some of the universal aluminum radiators do not have a drain petcock? Is that normal?
 
#63 ·
Also, I see some of the universal aluminum radiators do not have a drain petcock? Is that normal?
Quite common with lower cost universal fit or racing radiators, I guess they figure you just yank off the bottom hose and let it fly LOL. Many racers use a tube with a drain fitting in it mounted in the middle of a two-piece lower radiator hose.
You'll also sometimes see this same tube mounted with the petcock pointing up in the upper radiator hose, to act as an air bleeder at the high point of the system.
 
#62 ·
You should not have to install the radiator before the engine! You may have to position the fan shroud before the radiator install, that is place it in front of the engine and push it towards the engine as far as possible (may have to remove water pump mounted fan/clutch, belts, alternator & brackets, AC compressor & brackets, PS Pump & brackets, etc., maybe not) but that’s common with a one piece shroud. A very good reason for buying or fabbing a two piece shroud.
FWIW
ssmonty
 
#65 ·
So is the '86-'88 350 alternator just a single wire setup? My jeep wiring shown in the pic has the single wire and the two inside the plastic clip. The Chevy alternator appears to have a port to accept such a clip, but there is no terminals in there. It's just a plastic tab in there. If the opening is not for an electronic connection, I am confused as to what it even is??
 
#66 ·
The single wire "conversion" alternators I've dealt with, all had a rubber plug completely sealing up the entire receptacle hole instead of just the "clip' in your photo; but I guess there are different ways to accomplish plugging up the terminal area from being used. As far as your water pump, there's a bunch of different ones, and some are pretty much universal; that's why I always take the old part in when looking for a replacement, especially when dealing with the "year, make, and model, blonde, redhead, or brunette", computer jockey, parts people. At least they have something to match their part up to against yours. It used to be so simple in the 50's, 60's, and even into the 70's, but since the 80's, nothing's for certain, and who can keep up anymore? IF you do use the single wire alternator, be sure and read up on it so it does't "backfeed" your ignition circuit, and keep the vehicle running, after you've turned the ignition key off. junior stocker.
 
#68 · (Edited)
so I have the right size radiator now after returning my 24" Griffin to Summit for a 22" wide Griffin. Don't use their postage printouts if you want a speedy exchange. It took two weeks for them to receive it with their printout. Once they received it I had the replacement in a couple days.
Now I am reading up on water pumps. Somebody previously mentioned something about clockwise and counterclockwise pumps. The PO said that the engine overheated and couldn't figure out the issue. I wonder if when the builder put the carb on it they put the wrong pump on also. My neighbor says that the fins of the propeller will be cupped to the side of rotation and that I may have to replace all the bracketry to run the required serpentine belt.
Autozone.com shows counter clockwise rotation no matter what year I enter - tbi or carb.
 
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