Starting a new thread specific to what I am currently trying to do. I had a broken ring in my 258 Jeep engine and am replacing it with a 350. I just got the 350 in my garage. It has about a hundred miles on it, and I got it from a buddy. I can tell by the unused sensors that it was originally FI. It has been hacked down to a carburetor. I will be reverse engineering it back to FI. I already found and pulled a replacement distributor and am waiting on an engine stand so that I can paint it. I already have a few questions in mind, but first thing I need help with is identifying exactly what I have for ordering parts, and my own peace of mind. Can't use vehicle information, since it was a diesel 3500. I have done a little research and recovered casting numbers from the top, flywheel end of the block. They are:
10054727 5.7 L G ("G" could be 6 or 0) CANADA 3
What I have found is: 1986 and up, one piece rear main seal, and 2/4 bolt main. Don't know what 2/4 main means. Is that the most info I will find? Should I be looking in other places for more markings?
Here's a pic:
Not sure what water pump I posted that you are talking about? Anyway, I don't really think I need what Autozone says will fit "X" year make and model 350 block. I think I need to know if TBI needs to be clockwise or counterclockwise, also if TBI needs to be serpentine belt. I am also curious if direction refers to the propeller rotation from the perspective of looking at the propeller? If it is, then I have a counter clockwise pump on my block with V belt pulleys.
The builder used V belt pulleys. I can swap them out for cheap after a visit to the pick and pull tomorrow. Just not sure if I need to or how this is all supposed to work?
Chevrolet started putting TBI on trucks in 1987. At the same time they must have went to the serpentine system. The water pump rotation on a 350 Chevy from 1987 up is counterclockwise. The 1986 back 350 Chevy water pump rotation is clockwise with V-belts.
I scrapped all the V belt and replaced it with serpentine out of the J yard for 20 bucks. Now my power steering pump won't fit. I'll have to go back for that and some other stuff. Bought a water pump for a 94.
Trying to figure out exactly what size flanges I need on the Y-pipe that I need to order. The output flanges on the rams horn manifolds measure 2" at the narrowest diameter. At the widest part of the flange they measure 2.25".
IN THE FORM OF A QUESTION:
Can anybody help me figure out exactly what size flanges I need on the Y-pipe that I need to order. The output flanges on the rams horn manifolds measure 2" at the narrowest diameter. At the widest part of the flange they measure 2.25".
I would be asking this one on a Jeep forum.
Your manifolds have 3 bolts, so you'll need the pipe with the 3 bolt flanges. Whatever you engine and manifolds came from, that's the vehicle's Y pipe you should use. (I think)
Or you could do the "right" thing, ha, and get some headers and run dual exhaust.
Thanks
I don't know what exactly the manifolds are off of. It seems that a 60's Chevy is the right ballpark.
I can't tell from the pics online if the chevy y-pipe exits passenger or driver side.
As long as the y-pipe exits on the passenger side, it shouldn't really matter what my 350 is sitting in, since I am simply trying to connect the manifolds and head south from there.
Had a stainless y pipe made. Finished the rest of the exhaust with a thrush welded muffler and a wrangler tailpipe.
It is overheating on me.
Have Griffin 3 row cross flow.
The Taurus fan is operating properly.
Upper hose swells then collapse when turn heater on.
Thermostat releases in boiling water.
Engine overheats with no thermostat.
Running functioning Automater gauges and also WinAldl to OBDI confirming temp as high as 230 before shutting it down.
Cut spring away from top saucer piece of Tstat and ran with just that so there was some restriction to give rad more time and still allow flow. Didn't do the trick.
Tried with heater core bypassed. Still overheating.
You and check the rotation with a couple of silly tests. Remove the radiator cap and see what direction the coolant/waer is flowing from looking inside the radiator once the thermostat opens. It should be flowing from the passenger side to the driver side if you have the correct water pump.
A reverse rotation of the water pump will reduce flow but turning a centrifugal pump backwards does not reverse the flow. No matter which way you turn a water pump it flows from the center shaft out. Turning backwards just reduces the efficiency.
Went through pump options during the engine install and thought I chose the correct pump.
Rad is half full. Cap on pass side. Top hose driver side bottom hose passenger side.
Started it this morning and antifreeze was dumping into the passenger side, (cap), side.
I had the Taurus fan wired backwards.
Hopefully it's the fix. If not I'm looking at possible wrong head/manifold combination.
Coolant flows from the bottom up to the manifold, through the thermostat, and into the radiator. That is correct for 350 engine and it is how I am flowing.
The pump spins counterclockwise with the serpentine setup. I have a counterclockwise pump installed.
So to my knowledge everything is correct at this point.
Ran @ 180*-210* on my way in to work. We'll see what happens on the way home.
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