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Old 07-16-2013, 07:47 PM
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350 build up questions

Have 1972 chevy short wide original casting block new cam and springs lifters too pressed in studs pulled out and lifter chatter destroyed cam you can figure the rest of the damage so I bought new large port vortec bowtie heads 2.00/1.55 valves max lift is .530. dual plane intake new cast crank forged pistons and I rods my cam is a Howard's hydraulic flat tappet with .470 lift 221 lift and 108 l/c single pattern and its 40 over on the block does this raise concern with any one just checking to see if it will be right

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Old 07-16-2013, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bratzler View Post
Have 1972 chevy short wide original casting block new cam and springs lifters too pressed in studs pulled out and lifter chatter destroyed cam you can figure the rest of the damage so I bought new large port vortec bowtie heads 2.00/1.55 valves max lift is .530. dual plane intake new cast crank forged pistons and I rods my cam is a Howard's hydraulic flat tappet with .470 lift 221 lift and 108 l/c single pattern and its 40 over on the block does this raise concern with any one just checking to see if it will be right
The rest of the world has motored on past flat tappet cams. You should too.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:11 PM
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If my budget would allow a retrofit or new style block I would but unlike the rest of the world I don't have an endless budget I pay cash
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:52 PM
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I think you would have been much better off to have gotten the small port vortec bowtie heads for a mild 350 build.
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:22 PM
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If you use a flat tappet cam,at least use a solid lifter
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:49 AM
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Need to also stay streetsble and reliable its my daily driver just need to know if I'm headed for disaster I know.the heads are a little big but next time I do this its going to be a stroked motor and would like to get heads that work for that too will the thicker deck on the heads require longer push rods or will stock work
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Old 07-17-2013, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Bratzler View Post
will the thicker deck on the heads require longer push rods or will stock work
Order an adjustable pushrod from your favorite cam grinder. Check rocker/valve tip interface and either use your old pushrods or order new pushrods based on what you see at the valve tip.
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bratzler View Post
Have 1972 chevy short wide original casting block new cam and springs lifters too pressed in studs pulled out and lifter chatter destroyed cam you can figure the rest of the damage so I bought new large port vortec bowtie heads 2.00/1.55 valves max lift is .530. dual plane intake new cast crank forged pistons and I rods my cam is a Howard's hydraulic flat tappet with .470 lift 221 lift and 108 l/c single pattern and its 40 over on the block does this raise concern with any one just checking to see if it will be right
That's a long sentence, some punctuation would make it much easier on the eyes.

I would go with the the smaller port heads and a solid cam.

You must always check valve train geometry when you are introducing new parts, such as heads.

The wiki link is here:

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...train_geometry



Duke
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:05 PM
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What is the major advantage over hydraulic lifter vs solid isn't hydraulic lifter less maintenance?

Also my cam manufacturer says do not pump them up prior to first fire up.does this mean don't prime the engine with them in it?

I know it's a rookie question but I would rather be ridiculed for stupid questions than be ridiculed by my wife for wasting money I appreciate all your advice.
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:57 PM
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Hydraulic lifters requires less adjustments,advantage.
the disadvantage is they are not as stable at higher RPMs,they usually have a rougher idle when compared to an equal solid lifter cam,They cost more(not much)

you will always find the fastest cars have solids
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:25 PM
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I bought full floating pistons,pins and rods. Obviously the piston and pins are fine. The rods fit but are tighter what is acceptable clearances for rod to pin. Do they wear into each other or do i hone them
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:33 PM
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Just to be clear they do fit together by hand just one is tighter than the other
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bratzler View Post
Just to be clear they do fit together by hand just one is tighter than the other
Just so long as, when the wrist pin is connected to the conrod, (lubed) you can turn it by hand, I think you'll be fine. You don't want any 'play' there, just a nice firm spin - if that makes sense. Should feel lovely and 'snug' but still turn.

Hope that helps.



Duke
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Old 07-23-2013, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bratzler View Post
Have 1972 chevy short wide original casting block new cam and springs lifters too pressed in studs pulled out and lifter chatter destroyed cam you can figure the rest of the damage so I bought new large port vortec bowtie heads 2.00/1.55 valves max lift is .530. dual plane intake new cast crank forged pistons and I rods my cam is a Howard's hydraulic flat tappet with .470 lift 221 lift and 108 l/c single pattern and its 40 over on the block does this raise concern with any one just checking to see if it will be right
I use a cam button with all my flat tappet builds, I think especially in this day and age that the cam lobes and lifters have enough to do without also holding thrust movements. These can get quite large on aggressive cams. This has greatly reduced the number of lobe and lifter failures we see. Afterall Ford spends the time and effort to run a positive thrust plate on flat tappet cams forever and they over the past 50-60 years of engine production have not had anything like the lobe and lifter failure rate that GM does.

Another key is to use a hard foot lifter, these cost a little more than cheap lifters but they do last longer with fewer wear problems. These are identifyable by the darker color of the lifter foot compared to the body. My preference in hydraulic lifters for performance engines is to stay away from fast leak down lifters. These can cause problems at lower RPMs where there is time for the lifter to develop a lash as the valve spring overpowers the engine oil pressure pushing the plunger down. I prefer to run a tight lifter with the plunger against its retainer, so it is fully pumped up all the time so there is no space for it to hold the valve open.

It really doesn't matter if you pump the lifters up before assembly or not, therefore, pumping them up is simply time that can be spent on other things. Lube them and the cam lobes well with recommended assembly lube. Drop them in then go thorugh the drill of crankshaft rotation to initially set them up turning the nut down till the push rod just reaches the place where it is tight to rotate in your fingers, then add half a turn. With #1 TDC firing Intake 1,2,5,7; Exhaust 1,3,4,8. Rotate the crank one revolution clockwise will bring #6 to firing adjust Intake 3,4,6,8; Exhaust 2,5,6,7. Once all together to where the engine can be started I fire it and go down each rocker loosening it till it ticks then for a street tighten the nut till the tick stops then turn 1/2 to 1 turn further and lock the nut if it isn't self locking. For performance applications I loosen the nut till the valve train just ticks, then tighten it to where the tick is just gone, then lock the nut.

Bogie
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Old 07-24-2013, 05:34 AM
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A couple of questions

Why do many guys buy `too big` parts for their engines, is it because speed shops always say to get bigger, you want more power later.

A camshaft is often what seems to be `the bigger the better` and not what the engine wants.

You put big heads to stock or near stock engine and get bad fuel mileage, no power/torque down low and so on.

everyone wants to have 600 hp engine in a daily driver, have 30 mpg and be able to go 11s at th1 1/4 mile.

You know that 1 change from stock leads to 3 more changes untill everything is done.

I guess we all do have to pay our own learning moneys
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