[Camaro1980]

Hey guys i have a stock 350 with a edelbrock performer intake and a edelbrock 600 carb fixing to go on along with flowtec headers,msd 6al, and i also want to put a new cam in it but, i have no idea what cam the motor would like best. this is my first motor so i don't want to put the wrong one in. i was looking in summit and found this summit cam SUM-K1105 $79.95
Brand: Summit
Product Line: Summit Cam and Lifter Kits
Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,200-5,700 RPM
Intake Duration 050 inch Lift: 224
Exhaust Duration 050 inch Lift: 234
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224 int./234 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 282
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 292
Advertised Duration: 282 int./292 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.465
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.488
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.465 int./0.488 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 114
Intake Valve Lash (in): 0.000
Exhaust Valve Lash (in): 0.000
Computer Controlled: No
Lifters Included: Yes
Lifter Style: Hydraulic flat tappet

how does this look to yall? oh yea it will be going in a 80 camaro with a 700r4 if there is anything i forgot let me know . thanks for everyones time .
jake

[bracketeer]

it would work. i would opt for the comp xe268h.

[67 Deuce 4 Me]

Your stock valve springs may not live long with that cam. You may need a stall conv too. I would go with a cam that makes power off idle to 5000 or 5500 rpm. Your intake is rated off idle too 5500. Just my .02 Ed

[baddbob]

I'd step it down a notch or two, especially if you're not planning on changing valvesprings. Chances are your engine has 8.5-1 compression and will like a smaller cam.

If it were me I'd run this Comp Cam 249-CL12-235-2
Extreme energy 4X4

Although it's labeled as a 4X4 cam believe me they make a lot of power everywhere, the lift vs duration is excellent for a street orientaded cam, the 111 lobe center makes for a broad powerband and helps top end as well. You'll shift at 5500-6000 and low rpm power will be awesome. Install some basic Z-28 style valve springs-cheap. I run the smaller one in a 5000lb 4X4 and it roasts the tires through two gears and pulls strong to 5500. Excellent throttle response.

[Camaro1980]

Thanks for the advice do i have to pull the heads to change the valvesprings? it seems like i have heard of it done with them still on. but anyway, if i do have to take them off its not a problem because i have some 461 double humps that i would like to take their place but they dont have any accessory bolt holes. is their any way to use them? Thanks again Jake

[NXSLT1]

Yes you can change valve springs with the heads still on, the same way you change valve seals. Get a fitting that screws into yer spark plug hole and plug yer air hose into it, this holds the valve up. Turn the motor each time you go to a different cylinder and make sure both valves are closed. I like to bring the piston to top dead center just in case I bump the valve and it drops. I usually take a piece of wire or something and stick it in the spark plug hole to feel when it gets to TDC. Auto zone sells the fitting you need and also the valve spring tool, those can be a pain in the *** sometimes though. It beats taking off the entire top of the motor just to get the heads off.

[NXS]

You really need to know the compression ratio of the engine when selecting a cam.
As was stated, you probably have lower compression so I'd steer clear from the comps everybody is recommending. The lsa is too tight and that will bleed off cylinder pressure. The summits have very wide lobe centers. This help build cylinder pressure and is what you want with a low compression smog engine, nitrous or blower motor. .
If you step the cam down one size your stock springs will work, if you want to keep that cam use the common Z28's as was noted alreay.

-ps- NXSLT1, nice name