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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2004, 11:38 AM
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RE:

What Knocks? You will hear the valves rattle or detonation when timing is too high , back it off till it quits,,distrubutor clockwise,,
Dan

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2004, 12:51 PM
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- that's called "spark knock"

Just a different way of saying it,

K
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2004, 07:03 PM
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RE:

Quote:
Reason being is you can't determine what the hell you're doing without a baseline.
My point exactly!Get the timing right the easy way so you know that it is close and if you check it with a timing light and it seems way far off you know something isn't right, hints,, timing chain, and everthing else that has been mentioned on this thread, get the timing in the ballpark then we can tell what else may be the problem, any questions on how to do it just ask I will be glad to assist in getting it close ,, not perfect but in the bal park,, 10-4,,
BTW,,
I don't know the firing order off the top of my head but I am sure someone does, I don;t think this is the problem but after taking things apart make d$#m sure you get it back right and it is worth going through it when you get the distributor in the right spot anyway,
Later
Dan
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Old 12-01-2004, 04:38 AM
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Re: 350 Chevy Issues engine trouble... Please help me!

Quote:
Originally posted by ineedspeed
I Moved This Post From "Introduce Yourself", I read somehwhere it said to ask your first question there, but I was told I should move it here so here goes:

I have a 1972 Chevy Nova (Fake SS) with a 350cid, with a Elelbrock Performer 600cmf 4BB carb. I think it has a mild performance cam. And no one who has tried has been able to time it right.
The first problem that you need to solve is to wade thru all the well intentioned mis-information you are getting from home and from this board.

You apparently have a basically stock 350 engine.

Your distributor has been altered (the removal of the advance springs).

The info that the push-rods would be loose when the cylinder is at TDC (Top Dead Center) is completely false if you have hydraulic lifters and they have been adjusted correctly.

OK. That being said; here is where to start.

Remove the distributor and install the stock advance return springs. Check to see that the advance mechanism moves freely.

Remove the spark plugs. Place a finger over the spark plug hole on the #1 cylinder (Front drivers side) and bump the engine over slowly until the compression forces your finger off the sparkplug hole. Look at the harmonic balancer. The engraved timing mark should be approaching the timing pointer. Rotate the engine by hand (a wrench on the harmonic balancer retaining bolt will work) in a clockwise (looking from the front) direction until the timing mark lines up with the '0' on the pointer.

Re-install the distributor. You may have to use a long screwdriver to line the oil pump shaft up with the distributor shaft. The rotor should be pointing to the #1 spark plug wire in the cap. If it isn't; then raise the distributor up enough so that you can rotate the shaft to line up the rotor with the #1 wire in the cap when the distributor is fully seated. Snug the distributor hold down clamp enough so that you can still rotate the distributor. Replace the spark plugs and the wires. Do not hook up the vacuum advance hose to the vacuum advance cannister yet. Plug the hose off.

Hook up a timing light. Start the engine. You may have to rotate the distributor a small amount to get the engine to start. Increase the engine RPM to 2500 and rotate the distributor so that you have the timing at 34 degrees BTDC. Tighten the hold down clamp. You will need to have an adjustable timing light for this or timing tape or an engraved balancer. Let the engine reach normal operating temperature.

Let the engine return to idle RPM. You may have to adjust the curb idle screw to get it to idle. Look for around 750 RPM in Park. Hook up a vacuum gauge to FULL manifold vacuum. Slowly adjust the air/idle screws to achieve the highest vacuum you can get. They should end up being about 1 1/2 turns out from fully seated and both should be about the same adjustment. Dis-connect the vacuum gauge. Hook up the vacuum advance hose to the vacuum advance cannister. If you are using FULL manifold vacuum (which I suggest), the idle RPM should increase. Re-adjust the idle RPM with the trans in DRIVE (if an automatic) to around 650 RPM. When adjusting the idle in DRIVE, be sure to have the wheels blocked and someone holding the brakes on. Do NOT rev the engine up when doing this.

Your initial timing should end up around 10-12 degrees depending on the mechanical advance mechanism in your distributor.

Test drive your car. When in high gear and going up a slight hill at a moderate speed you should not have any pinging. If you do, back the timing down 2 degrees and re-test.

I have not talked about several issues that others have brought up (timing chain, adjustment of lifters, vacuum leaks, etc.) because your original concern was the timing.

Get the timing correct and then post any new concerns that you might have. Take your time. Don't skip any steps. Good luck!
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Old 12-01-2004, 06:56 AM
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RE

Well Said Frisco, and thanks for the help, I sometimes wish I could go show him it is a lot easier to show someone than to explain how. But washington is a little far from Alabama
Thanks Again, and Good Luck ineedspeed
Dan
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2004, 11:32 PM
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Thanks!!!!!

Tonight I was able to find a little time to work on it. I was able to get the distributor back into the right teeth. And now TDC does have the rotar pointing at #1 cyender. But I didnt have time to do the the rest. Thanks for all the help, when I find time, I will finish the job and provide feedback.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2004, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by ineedspeed
I was told i could stick like a hanger in the plug hole and feel for the piston, but that confuses me because the plugs go in sideways-ish, and how would I know ifthe hanger is on the right peice of metal.
Here's how I do it and for me it usally works very well. Some of the explanations I saw on getting TDC without using the balancer I feel will noty get you as close to TDC as you'd want. No offence intended to anyone else who gave advise here.

Take out #1 plug and also remove the left valve cover. Stick a long star screwdriver into the plug hole and try angle it downwards into the cylinder. Turn the engine with the other hand SLOWLY. You will feel the screwdriver being pushed upwards if you're on the upwards stroke. By also fiddling with the screwdriver you must try keep it as upright as possible. Once you get to TDC you'll feel that there's no more upwards push and suddenly you'll start to feel downwards movement. Play around at this point until you feel you got the "center" of that movement change. NOW, look at the rockers of #1. Both valves should be closed meaning one of them shouldn't be pushed down slightly.

After this you can see if the mark on the balancer is off or not. If it is I would make a temporary mark at TDC to allow for adjustment with a light.

Hope this helps.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2004, 08:08 AM
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Thanks for the sugestion, I was able to get it to TDC and I used a combination of everyones advice, worked great. Thanks everyone.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2004, 10:29 PM
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valves

i had this same problem spent 2 days on it after i rebuilt my engine and figured out the valves were all out wack. they're easy to set your manual or someone should explain how if not i'll post again, i could be wrong but i had the same symptoms
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2004, 08:13 AM
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Well, its worth a try! How do I go about doing that? And thanks for the help.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2004, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by ineedspeed
Well, its worth a try! How do I go about doing that? And thanks for the help.
Go to this link and read my suggestion on how to adjust the valves.

Adjusting Valves
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2008, 04:23 AM
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When you got to TDC how did your timing marks line up???? Like everyone said both valves will be closed but a real help I always find is that as you come to TDC #1 Int and Exh valves will not move. I would wait on the valve adj untill you have followed what Frisco said. Work on one piece of the puzzle at a time making sure the Dist is aligned correctly and all your wires are routed correctlly (18436572). Moving to many things can create more headaches than fixes sometimes. Just remember take your time and if your not sure reask the question. We all started out where you are at one point.
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