Ok let me give you a run down on my set up. I have a 1981 firebird that has a fresh built 350, A Comp Cam Dur 222 lift 447, lobe sep. 110, Speed pro flat top pistons, 9:5 comp, 882 casting heads, preformer intake, preformer 600 edlebrock carb, flowtech headers, With a fresh built turbo 350 tranny, new eaton posi track 3:73 gears, now this thing should be a beast of the line correct? Now dont get me wroung it will run out ok after 2500 rpm but it will not even bark the tires off the line, and like I said does not start pulling good till after 2500 or so rpm? What could be my problem? Or do I have a problem I just thought it would have more out of the hole. timeing is sat at 32 deg centerfuge timeing and about 14 deg int.

I've run that
Comp Cam Dur 222 lift 447, lobe sep. 110, that's a 327 350 hp cam and you should have at least a 2400 stall converter and even with 308 rear gears you should get some bark off the tires, I ran almost the identical motor in a 2900 pound car with a 308 posi rear end and the car turned on real good total timing was 36 degrees

I had a machine shop build me similar package. It was a dog. He told me I would have 320 HP. I checked out what he did and found out I actually had 275 HP and I had a bigger cam and carb than you do. You are running 882 heads with 76 cc chambers. You have no compression. .447 cam is kind of small too.

I would suggest 64 cc heads, 650 carb, at least a .477 cam. Get a 2800 convertor and put in a .500 cam and you will burn rubber.

Man this brings tears to my eyes, The machine shop that built my motor is trying to tell me that I would be at 350 375hp plus on top of every thing else this thing cost me 1800 dollars If this thing is only turning 275hp I fell like going back and kicking his teeth down his throat damn I hate being lied to

I agree with bracketeer on the hp number. Below I have pasted a combo that is the same as yours but with a 230 @.050 .480 lift cam and the heads are milled to give it 10:1 compression, and have 2.02 1.60 valves. That motor only made 317 hp so, based on that, I would guess that yours would be around 275-290 with the lower compression and cam. As far as quick fix, I think around a 2500 stall with and xe268H cam would be a good idea. You could always drop a few dollars on a dyno run to get an idea of what the car is really making. If it is at 375hp, you should be getting around 280-300 at the rear wheels.

Scroll down until you see it:
http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos3.html

Adam

I had him port the heads and install 2.02 valves. I paid 2100 bucks. The compression with flat tops and 76 cc heads is 8.8 to 1. My new motor which will create a realistic 450 HP cost me $1663 in machining alone.

Yeah I understand that hp cost money, I was willing to spend the money to do what ever it took. The combo that I have is what he was hell bent on. It's my own damn fault for not doing some research sooner. Well I think I will start over with another 350 and build the damn thing my self that way if I screw up or it does not preform like I want it to the only *** I can kick is mine. I have a 1989 camaro I just bought I think that will be my next project.


What do you all think about the vortech 64cc heads? Or would I be better of with some heads like trick flow? I seen some on summit for about a grand. What I am wanting to be turning about 450hp to the flexplate! If some body would have some kind of a ideal on what it would take to get me there maybe some combos.

On a street 355 where low end power is a concern, I would run a hydraulic roller cam, something like the 286HR (230 @.050 .560 lift 2500-6000), the AFR 180cc street ported heads with 64cc combustion chambers, and a performer RPM intake along with around a 2800-3000 stall and flat top pistons. That combo should get you to a good 450 hp and 450 torque. It would be a awsome street motor. The vortec heads are good, but I dont think you will be able to reach your hp goal with them on a 355.

Adam

I've got a simlar combo (flattops/stock 882 heads/355ci/performer intake + 600 cfm carb #1406) and I've had three cams in it (looking for more bottom end grunt).
SSI #10311 224/224@.050 .465 lift 114 lobe center (120 psi cyl press)- this one was a dog, especially below 3000 rpm
Isky #201271 221/221@.050 .465 lift 108 lobe center (135 psi cyl press)- this one was better, still weak on bottom end but stronger all around than the SSI
Crower #00240 210/216@.050 .444 lift 112 lobe center (150 psi cyl press)- this is the cam I am using now. Bottom end is better than the previous two and DD2000 indicated a slight (~10hp/~10tq) increase in power over the operating range (vs. the Isky).
I have it in a 3165# (w/driver etc...) S10 p.u. with TH350, 2400 stall, 3.50 gear, 28" tall tires. It has run a best of 14.05 @ 97.57mph with a best 60' of 2.05. I'd estimate hp at 285 (flywheel) or 230 (at the wheels).
Some extra compression would help but I think the heads are the biggest limitation.

i like your style. thats about how im looking to go. anything below 150psi is kind of soggy

i found a guy online who states the performer cam made 208 rwhp in a csb350/th350. the same motor behind a t-5 made 230hp. hmmm i always said a manual trans was better

Were is the best place to look at the AFR heads? I have found a few sites but they were high.

AFR heads are pretty expensive, but you have to remember that you are getting a fully CNC ported head, of you bought an unported head, you would have around 1100-1200 in the set, but to get them to where AFRs are, you will have to spend $600-$1000 in porting. You are going to spend around $1300 for the set. Jegs prices seem as reasonable as anywhere else. You could also try a company called Revolutionary Performance.

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=333360&prmenbr=361

http://www.revolutionaryperformance.com/products.htm

Adam

Be careful on what you buy for heads. To go but an expensive head with 220 cc runners and not have what it takes to make them work is a total waste of money. I have read on this forum that there can be a 6 month waiting list for AFR heads.

Six month waiting list!!! man that bites. WHat about a set of edelbrock heads, would they get me to the 450hp mark with the correct cam, comp ratio, intake, carb, headers, and stall converter? (head info)nder Head Style: Assembled
Cylinder Head Material: Aluminum
Cylinder Head Finish: Natural
Combustion Chamber Volume (cc): 64
CNC Machined Combustion Chamber: No
Intake Runner Volume (cc): 170
Exhaust Runner Volume (cc): 60
CNC Machined Intake Runner: No
CNC Machined Exhaust Runner: No
Intake Port Location: Standard
Exhaust Port Shape: Square
Exhaust Port Location: Standard
Spark Plug Style: Straight
Intake Valves Included: Yes
Intake Valve Diameter (in): 2.020
Exhaust Valves Included: Yes
Exhaust Valve Diameter (in): 1.600
Valve Springs Included: Yes
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in): 1.450
Damper Spring Included: No
Number of Springs Per Valve: Single
Retainers Included: Yes
Retainer Material: Steel
Locks Included: Yes
Lock Style: 7 degree
Valve Stem Seals Included: Yes
Valve Stem Seal Style: PC seal
Rocker Arm Studs Included: Yes
Rocker Arm Nut Thread Size: 3/8-24 in.
Rocker Arms Included: No
Rocker Arm Nuts Included: No
Guideplates Included: Yes
Guideplate Pushrod Size: 5/16 in.
Valve Cover Mounting Style: Perimeter bolt
Accessory Bolt Holes Drilled: Yes
Valve Guides Included: Yes
Valve Guide Material: Manganese bronze
Valve Seats Machined: Yes
Valve Seat Machine Style: 3-angle
Valve Seat Material: Ductile iron
Steam Holes Drilled: No
Oiling Style: Through pushrod
Machined for O-Ring: No
Heat Crossover: No
Quantity: Sold individually.
Notes: Will not fit centerbolt-style intake manifolds.

All my cars use Edelbrock heads. There are better heads but they cost more. I know people running 9s with Edelbrock heads.