[ThumperCR]

Ok Guys I'm stumped and I need help. I have a 350 chevy and I am having a really hard time with this starter issue. Ok I had to replace the old starter because it malfunctioned and kept cranking the car over even with the ignition switch off, so I had to replace the starter. Ever since then, I can't get the starter to work correctly.

When you first put the starter up, everything works fine. But when you let off and try to reengage the starter, it will catch for like a second or two and then start grinding. Then it will never really catch well enough to start the motor again.

I have checked the flywheel all the way around and there is no teeth missing or even marked in any way. I also looked at the starter bendex and there is no marks or signs of bad teeth on it either.

I also went out and bought a package of shims to try on the starter. There were three in the package. One .20, one .40 and one .60. I tried one at a time by themselves and that didn't help either.

No here's the really weird thing. If you unbolt the starter and take it down, then rebolt it back up, it will work once until you let off the key, then your done. But if you take the bolts out again and rebolt it up changing absolutely nothing it will work again until you let off the key. Any ideas?

Also the battery is brand new and fully charged. When the thing does turn over, it's turning it pretty fast so no problems there.

[Markmc59]

I believe you have a ground problem, missing or poor ground at the engine or from starter to engine grouund, block painted at starter bolt on area?. Or you have a bad connection coming from the ign switch to the starter solenoid(low amps or volts)

[DoubleVision]

sounds to me as if the starter is moving. are you useing the correct bolts? make sure your bolts are the shank head bolts that fit into the machined grooves in the starter, this helps prevent the starter from moving any. make sure there are no washers under the bolts, they are not needed and will let the starter move. the addition of a rear starter brace will also help.
the before post of grounds is a good point also. my car ate a total of 8 starters before I got it right. I rans a ground of 4 gauge wire from the frame to the block and from the block to the battery, I also ran a 10 gauge ground from the frame to the firewall, this fixed all my electrical problems. the car hasn`t ate a starter since and it spins the engine over with ease. what leads me to believe you have a starter moving problem is it`ll start when you first bolt it up, but won`t there after. make sure the bolts are tight, and that the shank head is fitted into the grooves for the shank machined into the starter.

[Wrencher]

Not sure what you mean by "grinding", do you mean spinning?, as in, the bendix isn't locking? I'd try another starter!

[skbackdoc]

Hi guys,

I am having the same problem with the starter in my 72 chevy truck 350.
It will start once after putting the starter up but will grind the next few attempts then just spins.
It ran perfectly for three months prior then this prolem began all of a sudden one morning.
When I bought the truck at the end of July I was told it had been through several starters in the past few years. The previous owner (whom is my patient so I trust him) put in a new gear reduction starter and ring gear the day I bought it.

Any thoughts ?

Backdoc

[willowbilly3]

There was a good article in Ca Craft (I think, might have been Hot Fod a few months ago on silencing the Chevy starter. In some cases a half shim is needed under one bolt or the other.
Put the starter in with out the solenoid on it and manually enguage it. Check the gear mesh depth. I think you should be able to put a .030 wire feeler guage in between the tip if the gear teeth.
Also I have to agree that if it works initially then won't you have some mounting issue. Do all the grounds first.